Kapex arbour nut broke in half

galwaydude18 said:
Why does it always tighten up way way more than I initially tighten it then?

Mine does the same.  I only finger tight mine and when I came to remove it, I couldnt get it off.  I called festool because I was worried about doing damage with the amount of force I was applying, they told me it does happen and the solution was to get a hollow bar to stick onto the Alan key to give me more leverage.  It worked but I found a small hairline crack appeared straight through the bolt head.  So I had to get a new bolt.

It tightened the bolt slightly with Alan key after that time not with fingers and after some use the bloody thing still became super tight. So far brute force has removed it with out splitting the bolt again but I don't think the bolt will last.

 
I've just had the same thing happen. Nut sheared.

Can anyone tell me the part number please? I've looked at ekat (http://ekat.festool.de/login/jsp/main.jsp?doAction=start&autologin=true&userId=Kunde-FT_GB&password=Customer&design=festool) and it looks like the part number is 470817 but I can't be sure from the drawing.
 
Cheese said:
Anti-seize:
Here's Never-Seez Nuclear grade. Extremely high nickel content and useable in high temp situations. Also very good in corrosive conditions. I use this for lug nuts on cars, u-joints, suspension components and exhaust manifolds. Works extremely well, but it is messy and takes several days to remove the nickel residue from your fingers.

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Loctite makes a copper anti-seize in a stick form like this (I have it downstairs but I can't locate it) that's what I would use on the Kapex.

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And then there are the Loctite locking compounds at the other end of the gamut that are shown above. Loctite red (permanent) and Loctite blue (temporary). Both available in the lipstick form and easy to apply and use.

Don't 'finger lickin good' them metric counter tools ;)

I only use the nickel for the Zorst. And I use the Copper elsewhere.
 
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