If I may offer a few ideas…
1.) I would install handles on the box. I would place the cutouts you want/need towards the top but install a pair of trunk handles somewhere just
above the middle (not below). If this “box” were to ever go close, or even over, 100 pounds you really would want another person on the other side lending his/her hand.
Plus what happens when you attempt to carry the box over ice, mud, sloped-surfaces, etc..? How about narrow doorways? The 1st 30” doorway and you lose you knuckles.
I would also consider using ¾” ply for the bottom and using toggle latches to attach the sides, front and back to the bottom. This arrangement would allow your back panel to stay in place (#3) but be removable when necessary.
2.) What do/will you mount the Kapex on to? If it’s something like the DeWalt or Rigid stands some of us use, then consider attaching the stand mounts to the bottom of your box so
that becomes the platform you mount to the support stand.
3.) If the back panel is to remain in place, do not forget to allow for dust extraction (36mm hose) and your power cord.
5.) If you intend to route something into the top to allow a Systainer or two to sit on the top, consider using cleats screwed to the top to make the recesses for the Systainers. Cleats should be much easier than routing something to place the Systainer into.
If you have the new T-Locs, or want to plan for them, you could route a rabbet into the cleats for the “rear” of the Systainer to slide into.
6.) If you intend to mount some form of illumination “inside”, consider placing it towards/in the upper rear so the light bounces down onto the work and then towards your eyes. Placing it there would eliminate shadows created by “the user” of the Kapex were you to mount it in the front over the work
JMTC... Good luck...
harry_ said:
1). The box Will NOT have handles of any sort on it. I see it as having hand-hold cutouts so that one would be carrying the box by the saw, not the saw by the box.
2). The bottom will not be removable. I do not foresee it being much larger than a squared off footprint of the saw itself. (may pose some elevation issues with systainers and other stuff unknown to me at this time. I am sure this can be overcome.)
here is where it starts to get a little convoluted......
3). The back panel of the box stationary (but removable?) with enough set-back for the saw to be able to do it's thing.
4). The sides to be split at a point (an inch?) behind the plane of the fence.
5). The top to be hinged to the back. Possibly having a added layer to it, routed so that a systainer (or 2) could nestle into it
6). The front being split horizontally somewhere around 1/3 down, and hinged from the top. This front panel segment could hold something like an under counter fluorescent light fixture or goose-neck lamp
7). The center 1/3(ish) to have a small tray (like sink base tilt trays), the from the top of the tray to the hinge (attaching to the bottom panel) would be nothing because of the base of the saw interfering when closed.
I was thinking in terms of a quality 1/2 inch plywood, and segments of piano hinge. When closed, the sides, front & back sitting over the base and the top resting on the sides. I want it to be able to support some weight, not a thousand pounds, but maybe 200 or 300.