kapex 'box'

harry_

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Nov 22, 2009
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Has anyone built, or considered building a protective box for their Kapex?

To go it a step further, maybe a box that could work in conjunction with systainers.

I will see if I can hunt up a sketch-up Kapex to manipulate into my idea.

The pictures below prompted the thought.

Sometimes I feel that the SCMS is very vulnerable, I would be doubly worried if it was a Kapex.
 
Harry, I don't mean to poke fun, but that photo was funny!  I know how it gets when trying to pack everything into one trip, etc. I've been known to push the envelope with how I load my truck. I only have a 6'6" bed on my Tundra and I basically have it set up to always have my standard kitchen/custom cabinetry install tools as that's basically my daily task. I have my Kapex on the UG cart stood up in the truck. I'm not worried about it getting damaged on any regular occasion. The only reason I've ever thought about a box for the Kapex was to allow me to stack other tools on top of it!  No wasted space!  But that was before the UG cart. I have an enclosed 7'x14' that I use for any deliveries or to haul anything that I can't fit in my truck.

Not to change the subject, but I'm very interested in a Sprinter style or Nissan NV type vehicle. Just not sure how I feel about not having 4x4 living in crazy New England.

Bob
 
Harry,

I have had a protective Kapex box on my mobile shortlist for quite some time, just haven't gotten around to it yet.  Can't wait to see what you come uo with.

Peter
 
a propective cover would be great . those saws are very vulnerable . i hate the way the blade is exposed when locked down. i wrecked a good blade on my saw with a piece of steel ber. i had to break sudenly and it flew forward into the SCMS blade. took out a few teeth and bend it ( it was a thin kerf cmt )

harr maybe you could build a box on that pull out tray for the SCMS to sit into.
 
A bit of a tangent - I'd like a hood for it when it's collapsed on the UG trolley.

Made from similar material to the FS track bag.
 
Hi

In the UK FESTOOL use these transit cases for collecting and delivering the KAPEX when servicing. With the polystyrene inserts from the original packaging placed in the bottom and on top of the machine, plus the use of four pairs of Velcro straps internally, it's a really neat solution. I liked it so much I purchased one from them to move our PROTOOL machines around. It keeps them safe from damage when in transit with a courier, and from damaging anything else in our van, but just as importantly we can stack plenty on top and make the most of the space.

Regards

Warren

 
A Kapex transport box is on my list too.  I am thinking put the box on casters or maybe even Systainer roll boards (for versatility), and have Sys latches on/in the top for two stacks.

Seth
 
Peter, Seth and all,

Sorry I don't think I will have the time to get to designing it for a few weeks. but I will through out my for it in the meantime.

1). The box Will NOT have handles of any sort on it. I see it as having hand-hold cutouts so that one would be carrying the box by the saw, not the saw by the box.

2). The bottom will not be removable. I do not foresee it being much larger than a squared off footprint of the saw itself. (may pose some elevation issues with systainers and other stuff unknown to me at this time. I am sure this can be overcome.)

here is where it starts to get a little convoluted......

3). The back panel of the box stationary (but removable?) with enough set-back for the saw to be able to do it's thing.

4). The sides to be split at a point (an inch?) behind the plane of the fence.

5). The top to be hinged to the back. Possibly having a added layer to it, routed so that a systainer (or 2) could nestle into it

6). The front being split horizontally somewhere around 1/3 down, and hinged from the top. This front panel segment could hold something like an under counter fluorescent light fixture or goose-neck lamp

7). The center 1/3(ish) to have a small tray (like sink base tilt trays), the from the top of the tray to the hinge (attaching to the bottom panel) would be nothing because of the base of the saw interfering when closed.

I was thinking in terms of a quality 1/2 inch plywood, and segments of piano hinge. When closed, the sides, front & back sitting over the base and the top resting on the sides.  I want it to be able to support some weight, not a thousand pounds, but maybe 200 or 300.

I could not find any sketch up models for a Kapex. Any help there would be appreciated!
 
So Harry, your thinking of attaching the box to the saw stand and just unfolding  the sides etc?  You would have openings large enough to put hands through to grab the saw at the carry points? That way the box sides would not need to be rigid enough to support carrying.

I am sure it could be made to work. It does seem like a lot of complication though. Is there a reason you don't  want to have to remove the saw from a box?

Seth
 
I dont own a Kapex yet, I was assuming it's carry points would be similar to my Bosch which I carry front against my chest from the hand-holds on the sides of the stationary deck. That is where I would place my holes for carrying. I was primarily thinking `carry by the saw` as a means to reduce the weight of the box (by using lighter materials, not by having cutouts) while also eliminating the possibility of a 'cover latch' coming undone and having a $1300 saw spill onto the ground or worse yet, the customer's flooring.

My thinking with regards to opening up vs. removing was that once opened up, it would provide a place for a light and the tray. Neither of which are absolutely necessary but I thought would be nice. Once opened it could act as a dust hood of sorts (maybe with the addition of a little fabric (Tyvek). Kind of like the fastcap hood Brice has, but without it being as big as a lacrosse goal.
 
Harry,

You might want to check out the Festool Supplemental Manual on the Kapex written and illustrated by Rick Christopherson, copyright TTS Tooltechnic Systems, 2008.  Link:  Kapex Supplemental Manual

On page ten is the following illustration of the carrying position:

[attachimg=#]

As you can see in the illustration, carrying the Kapex in this position results in the most compact form and allows it to be held closer to the body.  I always thought about having a box to protect it in transit, but once on site taking it out of the box at the truck / trailer and then carrying it like shown in the illustration.

Peter

 
If I may offer a few ideas…

1.) I would install handles on the box.  I would place the cutouts you want/need towards the top but install a pair of trunk handles somewhere just above  the middle (not below). If this “box” were to ever go close, or even over, 100 pounds you really would want another person on the other side lending his/her hand.

Plus what happens when you attempt to carry the box over ice, mud, sloped-surfaces, etc..? How about narrow doorways?  The 1st 30” doorway and you lose you knuckles.

I would also consider using ¾” ply for the bottom and using toggle latches to attach the sides, front and back to the bottom. This arrangement would allow your back panel to stay in place (#3) but be removable when necessary.

2.) What do/will you mount the Kapex on to? If it’s something like the DeWalt or Rigid stands some of us use, then consider attaching the stand mounts to the bottom of your box so that becomes the platform you mount to the support stand.

3.) If the back panel is to remain in place, do not forget to allow for dust extraction (36mm hose) and your power cord.

5.) If you intend to route something into the top to allow a Systainer or two to sit on the top, consider using cleats screwed to the top to make the recesses for the Systainers.  Cleats should be much easier than routing something to place the Systainer into.

If you have the new T-Locs, or want to plan for them, you could route a rabbet into the cleats for the “rear” of the Systainer to slide into.

6.) If you intend to mount some form of illumination “inside”, consider placing it towards/in the upper rear so the light bounces down onto the work and then towards your eyes.  Placing it there would eliminate shadows created by “the user” of the Kapex were you to mount it in the front over the work

JMTC...  Good luck...

harry_ said:
1). The box Will NOT have handles of any sort on it. I see it as having hand-hold cutouts so that one would be carrying the box by the saw, not the saw by the box.

2). The bottom will not be removable. I do not foresee it being much larger than a squared off footprint of the saw itself. (may pose some elevation issues with systainers and other stuff unknown to me at this time. I am sure this can be overcome.)

here is where it starts to get a little convoluted......

3). The back panel of the box stationary (but removable?) with enough set-back for the saw to be able to do it's thing.

4). The sides to be split at a point (an inch?) behind the plane of the fence.

5). The top to be hinged to the back. Possibly having a added layer to it, routed so that a systainer (or 2) could nestle into it

6). The front being split horizontally somewhere around 1/3 down, and hinged from the top. This front panel segment could hold something like an under counter fluorescent light fixture or goose-neck lamp

7). The center 1/3(ish) to have a small tray (like sink base tilt trays), the from the top of the tray to the hinge (attaching to the bottom panel) would be nothing because of the base of the saw interfering when closed.

I was thinking in terms of a quality 1/2 inch plywood, and segments of piano hinge. When closed, the sides, front & back sitting over the base and the top resting on the sides.  I want it to be able to support some weight, not a thousand pounds, but maybe 200 or 300.
 
I would build a box with a removable 3/4"-thick plywood bottom.

The bottom would latch to the upper box by means of draw catches or similar hardware.

The Kapex has 4 feet that can drop into matching holes drilled into the bottom and keep it positioned.

I would have the cutouts for handholds in the lower 1/3 of the box so that it can be carried without the box hanging down to bang legs as you walk, but still see over the top.

Locate the handle cutouts on all 4 sides so that you have the option of turning it sidewise to get thru doors.

Make the whole thing of the lightest weight plywood available. Try to keep the total weight, including Kapex, to 60#, or less.

 
Peter Halle said:
Harry,

You might want to check out the Festool Supplemental Manual on the Kapex written and illustrated by Rick Christopherson, copyright TTS Tooltechnic Systems, 2008.  Link:  Kapex Supplemental Manual

On page ten is the following illustration of the carrying position:

[attachimg=#]

As you can see in the illustration, carrying the Kapex in this position results in the most compact form and allows it to be held closer to the body.  I always thought about having a box to protect it in transit, but once on site taking it out of the box at the truck / trailer and then carrying it like shown in the illustration.

Peter

I was presuming both sides of the base could be used as hand-holds. My Bosch has other carrying handles which I have never used for more than picking the thing up off the floor into a carrying position.
 
harry_ said:
Peter Halle said:
Harry,

You might want to check out the Festool Supplemental Manual on the Kapex written and illustrated by Rick Christopherson, copyright TTS Tooltechnic Systems, 2008.  Link:  Kapex Supplemental Manual

On page ten is the following illustration of the carrying position:

[attachimg=#]

As you can see in the illustration, carrying the Kapex in this position results in the most compact form and allows it to be held closer to the body.  I always thought about having a box to protect it in transit, but once on site taking it out of the box at the truck / trailer and then carrying it like shown in the illustration.

Peter

I was presuming both sides of the base could be used as hand-holds. My Bosch has other carrying handles which I have never used for more than picking the thing up off the floor into a carrying position.

Yes, both sides of the base do have hand holds. One side has a little bit different grip space because of the angle unit storage. It is just more compact, closer to your body, and a bit easier to carry as shown in the pic.

Seth
 
harry_

Did you go any further developing a box system for a kapex? I notice this thread has been quiet for a while - have you purchased a kapex?
I just entered the holiday sweepstakes for the kapex and ct26. Crossing my fingers it will be mine.

Wes
 
Wes,

No, this year was rather slow for me so the Kapex has yet to materialize. Still livin the dream though!  [laughing]
 
i have considered a box for the mitersaw in my truck also .same reason ,so it is protected when stuff in piled in .I haven't because the foot print would be very large . My figureing is the box is just for protection in the truck .No way would i carry it and the saw together . 1/2" ply makes sense ,cheap light weight ply . Needs to be able to move easily so that i can move it about in the box truck to get at other tools and to make room for various things I load up .Like the idea of using hand holds .I may revisit this project .
 
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