Kapex/ crown

[SteveC]

Just bought a Kapex. I like more support when cutting crown than afforded by the factory crown stops so fabbed this up. Prototype and will tweak it as it is used more. The oval holes allow the miter scale at 45 degrees to be seen.

 

[BobKovacs]

I'll be stealing that idea tomorrow morning for some crown I'm running.  Though with the wood extension wings that I have clamped into the v-grooves, I'll have to just screw the fence down to the wings instead of clamping it.

 

[SteveC]

Bob,
The arms are stepped, 1 1/4 " thick under the board to sit above the miter slot  and 3/4" to sit below table height.
It's a 1 x 6 and the arms are 12" long. The arm front corners have to be clipped ( tweak #1, didn't get to it yet) if you need to swing past 47 degrees.
Just to state the obvious, I set the gap using a gauge block (leftside on tailgate) ripped to the projection of the specific crown.

 

[fshanno]

I notice that there is no kerf at 0 degrees.  Does that mean you miter inside corners? 

 

[bjackson3]

This is pretty much how I always cut my crown, except i usually just use a scrap of ply or something clamped to my saw helpers.  Like the holes to see the degrees but once you cut your grooves in the right places it would be pretty hard to mess that up. I find this way to be the best for cutting crown because you have zero clearance slots for the blade, that way if you have a long point measure to cut to you don't have to guess.

 

[ccmviking]

Just bought a Kapex. I like more support when cutting crown than afforded by the factory crown stops so fabbed this up. Prototype and will tweak it as it is used more. The oval holes allow the miter scale at 45 degrees to be seen.

    Have you actually tried the Festool Crown stops, or are you just speaking in general terms of stops?  I actually think they are great, and are very easy put on and take off.  I use them pretty much every day and it's very easy to loosen and slide the stop piece back to cut wider material, and then easy to set back in place when needed.  Give them a try if you haven't.  I know they are a little pricey but they are durable and quite efficient to operate. 

Chris... 

 

[SteveC]

No slot at 90 because I hadn't used it yet. I do cope, using Collins coping foot on jigsaw.
Based on old habit, I am use to using the Starett angle finder BF (before Kapex) which you'd need to see the scale to set the degree if other than 45.
Using the Festool gauge that is not the case.
The money saved not getting crown stops went to an Installer cleaning kit w/ 36mm hose, which in actuality cost me more !☺

 

[norwegian wood]

This is pretty much how I always cut my crown, except i usually just use a scrap of ply or something clamped to my saw helpers.  Like the holes to see the degrees but once you cut your grooves in the right places it would be pretty hard to mess that up. I find this way to be the best for cutting crown because you have zero clearance slots for the blade, that way if you have a long point measure to cut to you don't have to guess.

you have zero clearance slots if your house corners are all perfect 90 degrees. when that slow starts flaring out from 44-46 degree cuts or worse how do you use that to put your cut mark on when you need the angle somewhere between that slot?

 

[SteveC]

This is pretty much how I always cut my crown, except i usually just use a scrap of ply or something clamped to my saw helpers.  Like the holes to see the degrees but once you cut your grooves in the right places it would be pretty hard to mess that up. I find this way to be the best for cutting crown because you have zero clearance slots for the blade, that way if you have a long point measure to cut to you don't have to guess.

you have zero clearance slots if your house corners are all perfect 90 degrees. when that slow starts flaring out from 44-46 degree cuts or worse how do you use that to put your cut mark on when you need the angle somewhere between that slot?

Turn on the laser

 

[norwegian wood]

This is pretty much how I always cut my crown, except i usually just use a scrap of ply or something clamped to my saw helpers.  Like the holes to see the degrees but once you cut your grooves in the right places it would be pretty hard to mess that up. I find this way to be the best for cutting crown because you have zero clearance slots for the blade, that way if you have a long point measure to cut to you don't have to guess.

you have zero clearance slots if your house corners are all perfect 90 degrees. when that slow starts flaring out from 44-46 degree cuts or worse how do you use that to put your cut mark on when you need the angle somewhere between that slot?

Turn on the laser

i do, and thats why i do not need saw kerfs to line up my cuts = )

but i still like cutting crown on flat. no jigs to worry about

 

[bjackson3]

mostly do cabinet installs and I make pretty sure all of my corners are right on 90 when i am installing.  For inside corners in a room I always cope, so a slightly off angle is not a huge deal, outside corners are a bit of a different story but if I have to tweak the miter a bit here and there to get a nice tight miter it isn't that big of a deal for me to just bend down a bit and peak underneath at the scale, i could see how the holes would be nice, but I always have scraps laying around so a dedicated jig is just another thing to lose in the truck.