Kapex + CT, 15 or 20 amp outlet?

Iceclimber

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So i should take delivery today of a Kapex. At least thats what the UPS man says..

Two questions, is a 15 amp circuit fine for both the saw and and CT or shop vac..

I have a CT but only one. My plan at least for now is to use a 5 horse rigid shop vac hooked to an auto switcher. Does anyone see a problem with using a Kapex with a auto switch thing.

My concern is the reports of fried Kapex saws and not wanting mine to become one of them?
 
You can use the Kapex and CT together on a 15 amp circuit. With the soft-start motors, they don't have big draw spikes when you crank them up like some tools. You can always adjust the suction on the CT or the speed of the motor on the Kapex if you experience issues with popping the breaker.
 
You should be fine - as long as there is NOTHING else on that circuit.

A 15 amp breaker won't trip just because you draw 15.1 amps. Or 16 amps, for that matter. It takes an over-current for an extended period of time to cause the breaker to trip.

Obviously a 20 amp circuit would be better if you have access to one?

 
I figured so much. I guess i just get nervous with the stories of cooked Kapexs and the possibility it being from a dirty circuit.

My electrical panel is maxed out as i live in a old house and only have a 100 amp service. I do have a dedicated 20 amp circuit that goes to my microwave but thats it. I am thinking of throwing a junction box into it and running the Kapex and CT off that.  With only two people in my house and it being only a 1500sq ft bungalow you are always well aware of what the other person or people in the house are doing. Point is that ,microwave should not get accidentally turned on when i am working. Its pretty clear when I'm working in my shop as it sounds upstairs pretty much the same as in the basement where I'm working as the ceiling is not insulated.

I think i will just throw the junction box in for good measure so i never have to wonder.

Thanks for the responses...
 
I use my CT26 and Kapex on a dedicated 15amp outlet with no problems. Almost a year now and no hiccups. I've brought it to client site and I usually plug it into the nearest outlet and never had an issue. Who knows if the client had anything plug into that circuit.
Cheers.
 
Does the Kapex use more or less amps than other miter saws? I thought I remembered reading it has a fairly low power draw. Anyway, I use my Dewalt miter saw and Festool CT 26 all the time on a "very shared" 15 amp circuits. Sometimes in certain garages, all outlets are on one 15 amp circuit including the lights. I've never had an issue with the CT 26, but have with other larger wet/dry vacs.
 
You should get an 200amp panel.  My shop alone has 100 amp service to it.  I do have a lot of stationary tools though.  The microwave juction will work it,  doent mean its right.  You spent the money and bought quality tools and your going to skimp on the power supply to your shop. 
 
A 200 amp panel is great. I upgraded mine and it was a big improvement to my house because it let me add a lot of new circuits. I have a mini-split for my garage now... it's wonderful to be able to control temperature there.

That being said you will probably be ok with 15 amps. I've used my CT36 + other tools a lot and the only time I have a 15 amp breaker kick is when I use it with a TS55 ripping something heavy and it bogs down. A Kapex isn't likely to be under the same load for as long unless you are doing 4x4's.
 
Tyler Ernsberger said:
You should get an 200amp panel.  My shop alone has 100 amp service to it.  I do have a lot of stationary tools though.  The microwave juction will work it,  doent mean its right.  You spent the money and bought quality tools and your going to skimp on the power supply to your shop.

It doesn't matter how many tools you have, but only how many you can run at the same time. The typical hobbyist garage workshop can run from less than 30 amps at the load center. Even my atypical shop probably draws a maximum of 60 amps when the compressor, wide belt sander, and dust collector run simultaneously. The exception is when you have dedicated heating and cooling in the shop to account for.
 
Nothing kicks. And that is not what I'm concerned with. My concern was some of the reports of burnt up saws "maybe" a result of bing under powered.

I will upgrade my service or rather add a 200 amp service to my existing 100 amp and have two services. I just had my heating cooling system overhauled head to to plus on demand tankless hot water and that was 20k plus. I also did a 25k fence this year so im kinda tapped out for a while and i need a roof.

The electrical service will happen its just a $3500-5000k project in my neck of the woods. Add the Industrial Saw Stop and either a Hammer jointer plainer or Felder plus a 3 horse dust collector and i got myself another 20k nut!

Its gonna be a minute I'm very lucky to have what i have at this point...

My concern is cooking my saw as all my circuits are 15amp and all older wire in BX with just a hot and cold wire and no ground. As i understand it those lines are grounded just not as i am used to seeing in modern electrical work?
 
The kapex is a 13amp machine, festool vacs can sometimes push 10amps. Basically when you are cutting hardwood or pushing the saw you can blow 15amp breakers all the time. We blow them from time to time. I recommend 20amp if you can.
 
I've been following this thread as well as reading others regarding the 15 amp vs 20 amp circuit.

It seems like the 20 amp is best if you can do it.

My question is, the magic of Festool being capability to work "onsite" in your customer's home, what do the pro's do in the field.

I'd imagine there aren't a ton of 20 amp recepticles to be found when doing a renovation inside somebody's existing home. Or is it good enought to use a common 15 amp recepticle that is on a 20 Amp circuit?

Anyway, what do the pros do when taking their kapex/ct to the job?
 
Grasshopper said:
I'd imagine there aren't a ton of 20 amp recepticles to be found when doing a renovation inside somebody's existing home. Or is it good enought to use a common 15 amp recepticle that is on a 20 Amp circuit?

Yes, it is "good enough" to use 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits. This is why they are so commonly used, and 20 amp receptacles are fairly rare. The internal components on both 15 and 20 amp receptacles are rated to handle the 20 amp circuit. In most cases, they are literally the same, and if you peek in through the slots you can even see the horizontal tab that is utilized for 20 amp receptacles inside of the 15 amp plastic face.
 
Rick Christopherson said:
Grasshopper said:
I'd imagine there aren't a ton of 20 amp recepticles to be found when doing a renovation inside somebody's existing home. Or is it good enought to use a common 15 amp recepticle that is on a 20 Amp circuit?

Yes, it is "good enough" to use 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits. This is why they are so commonly used, and 20 amp receptacles are fairly rare. The internal components on both 15 and 20 amp receptacles are rated to handle the 20 amp circuit. In most cases, they are literally the same, and if you peek in through the slots you can even see the horizontal tab that is utilized for 20 amp receptacles inside of the 15 amp plastic face.
you can install a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit but not a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. This would be a code violation in a new installation.
 
I think Rick is implying that some (most?) 15 amp sockets have the same internals as the 20 amp sockets have.  To me the most important aspect is the wire running to the socket...I think that would make the greatest difference in voltage drop per amp.
 
Thanks Rick for the reply, I figured as much.

As a hobbyist (who wants a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the garage shop in the Spring), I was trying to visualize what guys do on location when they bring the Kapex/CT combo.  If they just plug in wherever, or if they are careful where they plug it in at the customers house in order to not fry their saw.

Rick Christopherson said:
Grasshopper said:
I'd imagine there aren't a ton of 20 amp recepticles to be found when doing a renovation inside somebody's existing home. Or is it good enought to use a common 15 amp recepticle that is on a 20 Amp circuit?

Yes, it is "good enough" to use 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits. This is why they are so commonly used, and 20 amp receptacles are fairly rare. The internal components on both 15 and 20 amp receptacles are rated to handle the 20 amp circuit. In most cases, they are literally the same, and if you peek in through the slots you can even see the horizontal tab that is utilized for 20 amp receptacles inside of the 15 amp plastic face.
 
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