kapex dust collection

[Janmara1]

I have encountered a problem in that I don't believe that my Midi is picking up most of the debris from my Kapex saw
replaced the smaller hose with the larger one on the Midi and have purchased a zero clearance insert . Rge suction is excellent on the midi for when I disconnect it from the kapex I pick up everything easily . When its connected to the saw and I turn it on I don't feel the same strength of suction from the rubber chip collector
I am really puzzled and would appreciate any and all assistance.

I have photos however I don't know how to attach them to this post

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[rrmccabe]

Have you removed the zero clearance insert?  I don't have one so don't know but since you mentioned it I thought I would ask.

 

[Janmara1]

I believe that I have almost resolved the issue. I cut 36" off the large hose and also based upon someone's advise started the saw in the forward position then pushed to cut . This move was new to me. Still a little dust however this is nothing to what I observed prior,

 

[Brice Burrell]

Another tip is to be sure to let the vac get up to full speed before you start the cut.

 

[Neathawk Designs]

And cut from front to back.... Meaning pull saw toward you, then start your cut at the edge of the board, and move the saw back at a reasonable pace.  Perhaps you already know this, but the method of cutting definitely makes a difference on Dust.

 

[wow]

And cut from front to back.... Meaning pull saw toward you, then start your cut at the edge of the board, and move the saw back at a reasonable pace.  Perhaps you already know this, but the method of cutting definitely makes a difference on Dust.

NEATHAWK is correct. A push cut is the proper way to use a miter (or mitre) saw like the Kapex, but a lot of people (me included) came from the Radial Arm Saw world and are used to a pull cut. Once you get used to doing it the right way, it will feel 'natural' to you.

BTW, a Radial Arm Saw would potentially work better and be safer if used with a 'push' cut, but it would require you to:
1) RAISE the saw motor & blade
2) place the workpiece
3) pull the saw forward on the carriage
4) LOWER the saw motor & blade, and
5) finally make your cut.

Care to guess why it's not used this way?

???

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Yes,........it would take too b l o o d y long to cut a bit of wood.  [big grin]

Tim.

 

[rrmccabe]

Pull cutting makes me nervous!

 

[amt]

I always do a push cut with my RAS.  There's no raising/lowering necessary.  Just pull the saw to you, then slide the wood in place against a back fence, turn on the saw and push forward.  No more difficult than a miter saw.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

Rubbish you should only ever do a pull cut. The reason is the way the blade is spinning when you pull the saw is at the start of the cut the teeth of the blade are forcing the material down on to the table and against the fence. If you do a push cut the teeth will be lifting the material away from the table. The reason you get a kick back on any saw is the material pinching the blade. On a ras you should always but the camber or bow down or towards the fence. The reason is when you make the cut the material will fall to the table and the cut will open prevent up preventing a kick back. If you have the bow up or away from rom the fence that is when you will get a kick back

 

[GarryMartin]

Rubbish you should only ever do a pull cut.

I know you meant it, but just in case it isn't immediately clear to others, you're referring to a pull cut on a Radial Arm Saw (RAS), *not* on the Kapex.

On a Kapex, there are two modes supported; "chop" and "slide". From the manual (which at the end of the day is the place you should look for safe use instructions)...

8.3 Cutting without guiding action
– Make the required adjustments to the machine.
– Secure the workpiece.
– Slide the saw unit backwards up to the fence (towards the workpiece stop) and close the rotary knob (1.5) for clamping the guide fixture, or secure the saw unit in the special cutting position (KS 120 EB only).
– Switch on the machine.
– Hold the saw unit by the handle (1.1), guide slowly downwards and cut through the workpiece at an even rate of advance.
– Switch off the machine and wait until the saw blade stops completely.
– Swivel the saw unit upwards again.

8.4 Cutting with guiding action
– Make the required adjustments to the machine.
– Secure the workpiece.
– Draw the saw unit forwards along the guide rods.
– Switch on the machine.
– Hold the saw unit by the handle (1.1) and guide slowly downwards.
– Push the saw unit backwards at an even rate of advance and cut the workpiece.
– Switch off the machine.
– Wait until the saw blade stops completely and then swivel the saw unit upwards.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

Yeah I talking about a radial arm saw not a kapex. What you are looking for is the blade when making the cut to be forcing the material towards the fences and table or base. As the previous poster has said always refer to the manufacturers instructions with any tool

 

[Neathawk Designs]

Another possibility is see how it works with a fresh new vac bag.  Its also easy to forget to crank the suction up.  These are both somewhat obvious... But I thought they should be mentioned anyway.

 

[epicxt]

Every time I've experienced unsatisfactory suction (or as my old high school physics teacher would say, negative pressure) the cause has been a bag that has filtered too many fine particles. Changing out the bag can make a huge difference even when it isn't full.

 

[ifit]

I do several types of cut on mine depending on what im cutting

Pushing the saw back is the standard but will leave splintering on the surface
Pulling the saw towards the front will give the cleanest finish on the top if the material is too wide to chop, the saw can run forward if you dont take care

Quality of finish take priority over dust extraction for me