Kapex fast fix not fast fixing

[ze91swbn4]

I bought a used Kapex. It has been damaged, the guard is loose and the dust port is broken off. Probably a past binding/kickback issue. Worst of all, I can't remove the blade. The fast fix knob does not seem to engage any locking of the arbor. The blade itself makes a ratcheting sound when it turns (in all settings). When I crank on the bolt that locks in the blade (I know it is reverse threaded), it cannot move separately of the flanges -- even when I clamp down the flange and block out the blade from turning. I wonder if the past incident caused them all to become bound together.

I did call customer support. They were not willing to give advice beyond: send it in for repair. I will if necessary, but was hoping to get some advice from someone who may have had a similar issue. Thank you!!

 

[peter halle]

Speaking only for myself, if I had a Kapex doing all that and the damage was caused by someone else, I wouldn't even attempt to fix it myself. I would also be wondering what if when using the saw. I would consider sending it in for repair knowing the following: boxing and shipping will be costly, if Festool takes it apart and issues an estimate - that estimate will be to bring it back to the quality of reconditioned - also probably costly, and if you decide not to get it fixed and want the saw back it will come back disassembled.

I hope you didn't pay much for it.

Peter

 

[ze91swbn4]

I appreciate that perspective. I have been in touch with Festool about reconditioning. At this point my focus is not fixing the saw, it is getting the blade off myself -- so I can decide what path to take next.

 

[tjbnwi]

3/8 drive impact with a 5mm allan socket.

Tom

 

[ze91swbn4]

I can turn the bolt, the problem is that it turns the flange with it.

 

[peter halle]

My Kapex has a small silver flange as post of the bolt. The larger black (I'll call a blade retaining washer has two flats in it that mate up to the two flats on the blade shaft. Which flange are you talking about? One would be normal with bolt loosening - the other would mean the entire shaft is moving if it is the correct part there. I think that Tom's suggestion was also about using the impact to possible loosening things up as well as turning that bolt quicker than wea s humans can do by hand. By the way when I just tried mine - it was a 6mm bolt.

 

[ze91swbn4]

My Kapex has a small silver flange as post of the bolt. The larger black (I'll call a blade retaining washer has two flats in it that mate up to the two flats on the blade shaft. Which flange are you talking about? One would be normal with bolt loosening - the other would mean the entire shaft is moving if it is the correct part there. I think that Tom's suggestion was also about using the impact to possible loosening things up as well as turning that bolt quicker than wea s humans can do by hand. By the way when I just tried mine - it was a 6mm bolt.

Thank you for your feedback. Peter, your info about the repair process was spot on. I sent it in (the shipping to the center was prepaid).

The estimate for repair is for over $1,400.

If I get it shipped back to me, to what extent is it disassembled? Like literally broken down into all its parts?

 

[peter halle]

Thank you for your feedback. Peter, your info about the repair process was spot on. I sent it in (the shipping to the center was prepaid).

The estimate for repair is for over $1,400.

If I get it shipped back to me, to what extent is it disassembled? Like literally broken down into all its parts?

$1400 for a repair versus $1800ish for a new one with a 3 year warranty. Everyone is different, but if it were me I would tell them to scrap it and then if I really wanted or needed a Kapex I would buy new.

How disassembled? Because they would normally go thru the entire machine to bring it up to their high standards - extensively would be my guess.

Peter

 

[onocoffee]

Thank you for your feedback. Peter, your info about the repair process was spot on. I sent it in (the shipping to the center was prepaid).

The estimate for repair is for over $1,400.

If I get it shipped back to me, to what extent is it disassembled? Like literally broken down into all its parts?

Wow. Ouch!
I saw a guy on Marketplace trying to sell a KS120 EB for $400. The listing is still up after more than a month, so I'm guessing no one is biting as the EB is mostly disassembled. He says it runs and that it works, but it's in pieces.

I called up Festool Customer Service to ask about potential repairs as I had heard that some people had armature repairs for $350. CS told me that shipping to FTUSA is covered but return shipping is not. He couldn't say for sure so I asked him was the extremes were - even he said that the most expensive repair quote he's seen was more than a new KS120. And now your report - wow.

Like Peter noted, if it's going to cost you $1400, you might as well spend the extra cash and get the new one. If shipping isn't too expensive, maybe have them send it back and you get the chance to learn how to rebuild it for future issues.

 

[ze91swbn4]

Ouch is right!! I feel like it is a "we don't really think this is worth fixing but we can do anything for a price" type quote.

So then the question becomes: if you had an exclusive track to buying a refurbished Kapex for $1400 (incl shipping to your home), would it be worth it. I believe Peter's hunch was better to just purchase new. Very reasonable and perhaps the way to go ... third option being, what if you get it sent back and attempt self-repair, for educational purposes.

 

[MacBoy]

Be honest with yourself, do you truly want a (complex) mechanical and electrical project?

If the answer is a hearty Yes, then ask Festool send it back.

 

[Hipplewm]

I can turn the bolt, the problem is that it turns the flange with it.

I know this is too late - but Impacts can turn stuff like this - think alternator pulleys etc where the shaft turns, but hit it with an impact and the nut is off or screw is out before the shaft gets enough momentum to turn....

 

[peter halle]

By the way, I hope that my post didn't come across as potentially saying "look it's only $400 more - of course spend the money." I still remember the day when I purchased my Kapex fifteen years ago. It was $1300 at that point. I was using a Hitachi saw and while in use a casting broke and I literally almost cut the table in half. I was not in the position to buy a Kapex on a whim. I was struggling financially and had to run off at lunch and max out my credit card for a Kapex. Money is just as real today as it was back then and it probably would have been smarter at that point in time to buy another brand that was less expensive and continue dreaming.

Peter

 

[ze91swbn4]

No, it didn't come across that way. It is a reasonable assertion and I think in most cases buying new would make sense at this point. Unfortunately 1800 + tax/shipping is not in the budget after I spent almost half that for the used saw -- a bad bet on my part but it was described as "in working condition" which has proven to be materially false.

Btw -- I did end up removing the blade (topic of the initial post). I also disassembled/reassembled the hood and stock to see if there was just something jammed or out of alignment. I sent it in because it seemed like the gear itself was damaged, causing the blade to rotate in a ratcheting fashion instead of smoothly. This is now confirmed by the repair estimate from Festool which lists the gear and the end shield as the two significant parts requiring replacement (the rest of the repair is for minor things like springs and some housing pieces).

 

[ze91swbn4]

Wow. Ouch!
I saw a guy on Marketplace trying to sell a KS120 EB for $400. The listing is still up after more than a month, so I'm guessing no one is biting as the EB is mostly disassembled. He says it runs and that it works, but it's in pieces.

I called up Festool Customer Service to ask about potential repairs as I had heard that some people had armature repairs for $350. CS told me that shipping to FTUSA is covered but return shipping is not. He couldn't say for sure so I asked him was the extremes were - even he said that the most expensive repair quote he's seen was more than a new KS120. And now your report - wow.

Like Peter noted, if it's going to cost you $1400, you might as well spend the extra cash and get the new one. If shipping isn't too expensive, maybe have them send it back and you get the chance to learn how to rebuild it for future issues.

Currently selling on marketplace? Or was this in the past?

 

[Cheese]

This is now confirmed by the repair estimate from Festool which lists the gear and the end shield as the two significant parts requiring replacement (the rest of the repair is for minor things like springs and some housing pieces).

FWIW...the End Shield is one of the items Festool always replaced when the older Kapex's went up in smoke. They used to run around $200.