Kapex Fence, Face and Insert

[johnsonri]

Got around to giving my Kapex a new face, fence and insert. This setup is proving to be pretty precise. I do like the Kapex very very much. However, I wish that the table were just a little big bigger...

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I had a Kreg fence prior to this setup, but I like the Festool fence better because I can very quickly remove and replace the fence.

 

[rnt80]

Nice setup Rey.  What about cutting miters?  Won't you have to move the fence to do that or do you not cut many angles/miters on the saw?

 

[Les]

Wow, what organization.  ;D Any tools you don't have?

Nice setup. What makes the Festool fence easier to setup than the Kreg?

 

[johnsonri]

Nice setup Rey.  What about cutting miters?...

Thanks Russ...as for miters, everything about the Kapex fence and table still works. I can still slide the auxillary fence and the table is still adjustable.

 

[rnt80]

I'm an idiot.  I forgot that the fences slide.  I don't think I've ever really moved them.

 

[johnsonri]

I'm an idiot.  I forgot that the fences slide.  I don't think I've ever really moved them.

With a hybrid table like yours and the ingenuity to create it...you're definitely no idiot 

 

[rnt80]

Did you use 3/8" material to make your fence?  I made a couple of sets this afternoon with some 1/2" mdf and they rendered the clamp useless.  It looks like if I send it through my drum sander and take off about 1/8" the clamp would then work.

 

[johnsonri]

Did you use 3/8" material to make your fence? ...

Yep, I had to plane down the faces so that I could use the clamp. I have a few sets of those fence faces now. The ones in the pics are about 3/8" or so.

In all, there were a few operations for the fence faces...
1. plane to thickness
2. bandsaw to get the shape
3. rout groove for 1/32" incremented lexan scale
4. glue on lexan scale
5. drill and countersink for screws

Using the Kapex with this setup....priceless  ;D

Wow, what organization.  ;D Any tools you don't have?

Nice setup. What makes the Festool fence easier to setup than the Kreg?

Thanks Les...as for a tool that I don't have....you won't find a table saw in my shop....I get by with Festool stuff.

The Festool fence makes for an easier setup here for me because I take the fence off alot so that I can use the table for other operations. Using the the Festool mft fence takes about 10 seconds to take off and put back on. The Kreg fence took a little more time to put on and take off. It was still quite great as a fence, and it will find another home in my shop.

 

[rnt80]

I already have the fences cut and attached.  I have some self-adhesive tape measures on order so I'll be adding those when I get them.  I'll wait until I get those attached to cut them as zero clearance.  I'll wait until then to put them through the drum sander to get them down to 3/8".  Did you back cut them at the bottom to allow them to slide (as suggested in the manual) or are they completely flush?

 

[johnsonri]

Did you back cut them at the bottom to allow them to slide (as suggested in the manual) or are they completely flush?

I cut them flush. However, I drilled the diameter of the holes for the bolts slightly large so that I can adjust the fence, as needed. When I attach the fence faces, I set them on top of a business card before tightening the bolt. That way I have about a 1/64" space at the bottom for sliding the fence.

I think that manual calls for screws of some sort to attach the face. I used countersunk bolts to attached the face.

 

[rnt80]

Did you back cut them at the bottom to allow them to slide (as suggested in the manual) or are they completely flush?

I cut them flush. However, I drilled the diameter of the holes for the bolts slightly large so that I can adjust the fence, as needed. When I attach the fence faces, I set them on top of a business card before tightening the bolt. That way I have about a 1/64" space at the bottom for sliding the fence.

I think that manual calls for screws of some sort to attach the face. I used countersunk bolts to attached the face.

In the manual it recommends backcutting the portion of the zero-clearance fence that rides against the lower, fixed portion of the kapex fence.  Did you do this?  I'm just wondering if it's necessary.  I didn't raise my fence but I did cut a notch out of the bottom to allow a space for saw dust.  I'll post some pics when I get the tapes in and everything set.

 

[fshanno]

Showoff!

Really though, nice setup.  It looks like you're set up to crosscut parts for cabinetry, doors, faceframes, etc and do it rapidly.  Do you use your Kapex for that type of work?  My SCMS is kind of hit or miss.  Sometimes cuts are dead on square, no light between the piece and the try square, sometimes not so much.  Guess it's the way I hold my mouth or the phases of the moon or something.  I was wondering if you can depend on a Kapex for that kind of work.

 

[johnsonri]

Russ,

I didn't back cut at the bottom. I saw that part in the manual, but couldn't quite figure out why it was needed. It works fine for me flush.

fshanno,
Showoff? Huh, if I were showing off, I'd go in the next room and snap a picture of my lizard  ;D

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No, seriously, the cuts are dead on square. I routinely try to work to 1/64th precision. As to the type of work I do...I do some of alot of things. I am getting things ready to do my kitchen in the coming months.

I am very particular when it comes to tools and my shop.

Rey