Kapex fences.

[lambeater]

Iv'e just started to modify my kreg miter station to fit my new kapex but have a couple of problems and questions. The saw sits between the fences but unlike my makita the fences slide instead of lifting off.
Do I need to make the Kreg fence section removable or flipable to allow the kapex fences to be completely removed? Does anyone ever completely remove their fences or is there only a need to slid them to the stop screw?
Last question for festool, when I put a straight edge on the back of the kapex table the surface is completely flat. But if I move the straight edge to the front there is a slight dip. Is this normal and will it have any effect on cutting performance.
thx
Lambeater

thx

 

[rnt80]

I have a similar set up, the Kapex with Kreg fences, and my fences are set back from the Kapex fences by approx. a inch.  You don't want them flush since might cut material that is not perfectly straight.  My Kreg fences sit in a track so they slide back and forth.  That allows me to slide them out of the way when I need to take the Kapex fences off.

 

[lambeater]

I have a similar set up, the Kapex with Kreg fences, and my fences are set back from the Kapex fences by approx. a inch.  You don't want them flush since might cut material that is not perfectly straight.  My Kreg fences sit in a track so they slide back and forth.  That allows me to slide them out of the way when I need to take the Kapex fences off.

Thanks for the info, I understand the reasoning for offsetting the fences but I usually just flip the wood if it is bowed. Do you have any pictures of your setup.
thx
Lambeater

 

[wnagle]

I put the extension wings on mine to leave room for the fences to slide on and off as seen below.  I also left enough room to remove the extension wings if needed.

 

[lambeater]

Thx Wnagle for info. What about your kapex base is it flat front and back or just the back? Maybe Shane knows!
lambeater

 

[stairman]

No one ever mentions this,  but...  DID YOU KNOW,  that the Kapex UG extensions are ALSO intended to be used as a permanent bench mounting system?

it is true!

I noticed that there are mounting provisions,  so the UG extensions can be screwed down to your workbench,  a custom station,  or whatever you need, and the best thing is:  they are FESTOOL parts that attach,  quite quickly and dead-accurately right to the accessory channels on the Kapex Saw!

I'm going to take some photos of the Kapex UG stand later today or tomorrow,  and I will post what I am talking about.
but since these are a PERFECT solution to what you are trying to do here,  I thought I'd just mention this here in your thread.

 

[lambeater]

No one ever mentions this,  but...   DID YOU KNOW,  that the Kapex UG extensions are ALSO intended to be used as a permanent bench mounting system?

it is true!

I noticed that there are mounting provisions,  so the UG extensions can be screwed down to your workbench,  a custom station,  or whatever you need, and the best thing is:  they are FESTOOL parts that attach,  quite quickly and dead-accurately right to the accessory channels on the Kapex Saw!

I'm going to take some photos of the Kapex UG stand later today or tomorrow,  and I will post what I am talking about.
but since these are a PERFECT solution to what you are trying to do here,  I thought I'd just mention this here in your thread.

Kinda sucks for me otherwise I would go that route but My kreg station is already there and permanently in place otherwise....
thx
Lambeater

 

[jmbfestool]

No one ever mentions this,  but...   DID YOU KNOW,  that the Kapex UG extensions are ALSO intended to be used as a permanent bench mounting system?

it is true!

I noticed that there are mounting provisions,  so the UG extensions can be screwed down to your workbench,  a custom station,  or whatever you need, and the best thing is:  they are FESTOOL parts that attach,  quite quickly and dead-accurately right to the accessory channels on the Kapex Saw!

I'm going to take some photos of the Kapex UG stand later today or tomorrow,  and I will post what I am talking about.
but since these are a PERFECT solution to what you are trying to do here,  I thought I'd just mention this here in your thread.

I used that method a few times when it has been raining I set up my kapex inside my van and stick the ug arm extensions on as they are the same height as the kapex when its sitting on a flat surface and stick my CT to minimise dust in my van and away I go I can open my back doors to allow longer timbers to sail through and I do all the cutting from my side door.  Saves setting up a ''tent'' and all for just doing some cuts when the weather cant make up its mind!  Its quick cus at the end of the day I just close my doors go home come back next day and just open up my doors and my kapex is ready to go again.

JMB

 

[Kevin Stricker]

You need to remove your right fence if you want to do a 45 degree bevel to the right. The left can just be moved to the far left for the same cut. My table is a bit high at the front but has not had any effects on my cuts so far..

 

[lambeater]

Thx Wnagle for info. What about your kapex base is it flat front and back or just the back? Maybe Shane knows!
lambeater

ANYBODY?  [huh]
thx
Lambeater

 

[Brice Burrell]

Thx Wnagle for info. What about your kapex base is it flat front and back or just the back? Maybe Shane knows!
lambeater

ANYBODY?  [huh]
thx
Lambeater

I'm not sure I understand the question, you're going to have to be more specific and/or rephrase the question.

 

[jmbfestool]

Thx Wnagle for info. What about your kapex base is it flat front and back or just the back? Maybe Shane knows!
lambeater

ANYBODY?  [huh]
thx
Lambeater

I'm not sure I understand the question, you're going to have to be more specific and/or rephrase the question.

I dont either!    Are they normally bowed?  Dont get why the front be different to the back.

 

[wnagle]

Lambeater,

As far as the Flatness, I wasn't sure what you were asking either.  

Also, my extension wings have a T bolt in up into the inverted kreg t track that goes between the saw and the kreg outer fences.  I built a piece of the T track into the fence and drill holes up through the extension wings for the T bolt.  This keeps everything inline and flat between the saw bed, extension wings and outfeed supports.  If you notice, the one on right is blue and the one on the left is white.  The right one is the kreg track flush with the outer fence.  The one on the left is laminated with white formica to keep it flush wit the out feed formica surface.  The kreg T bolt tracks are imbedded into each outfeed fence and I just made them a little differently, so that's the reason they are different.  

 

[lambeater]

Thx Wnagle for info. What about your kapex base is it flat front and back or just the back? Maybe Shane knows!
lambeater

ANYBODY?  [huh]
thx
Lambeater

Sorry guys I speak Canadian Kiwinese so I will try to rephrase. If i put a straight edge across the cutting horizonal cutting surface of the saw close to the back fences the surface is flat all the way across. If I move the straight edge to the front of the horizontal cutting surface it dips in the middle of the front edge. Hope this explains or I can take a photo.

thx
Lambeater

I'm not sure I understand the question, you're going to have to be more specific and/or rephrase the question.

 

[jmbfestool]

Thx Wnagle for info. What about your kapex base is it flat front and back or just the back? Maybe Shane knows!
lambeater

ANYBODY?  [huh]
thx
Lambeater

Sorry guys I speak Canadian Kiwinese so I will try to rephrase. If i put a straight edge across the cutting horizonal cutting surface of the saw close to the back fences the surface is flat all the way across. If I move the straight edge to the front of the horizontal cutting surface it dips in the middle of the front edge. Hope this explains or I can take a photo.

thx
Lambeater

I'm not sure I understand the question, you're going to have to be more specific and/or rephrase the question.

I get ya but to me that should also be flat or inline with the back.  If it aint when you push your wider stock down it will twist the timber no problem when straight cutting but it is when your doing a bevel cut.

JMB

 

[Brice Burrell]

Sorry guys I speak Canadian Kiwinese so I will try to rephrase. If i put a straight edge across the cutting horizonal cutting surface of the saw close to the back fences the surface is flat all the way across. If I move the straight edge to the front of the horizontal cutting surface it dips in the middle of the front edge. Hope this explains or I can take a photo.

thx
Lambeater

I would say it depends on how much it's out.  If it's a small amount, as in a piece of paper, then I wouldn't get excited.  Now, if it's a millimeter or more, well that's a problem.

 

[gdoebs]

Lambeater,

I just bought a Kapex and when I checked if the fences were square to the cutting table, the left fence was out of square. After emailing Shane he put me in touch with a Festool tech. He called me and explained that there's an area where the "icon" that says "don't put your hand here" is designed to slope downward slightly. This is the dip you see when you place your straight-edge on the cutting table.

My left fence is still out of square so they're sending me a new one.

 

[lambeater]

Lambeater,

I just bought a Kapex and when I checked if the fences were square to the cutting table, the left fence was out of square. After emailing Shane he put me in touch with a Festool tech. He called me and explained that there's an area where the "icon" that says "don't put your hand here" is designed to slope downward slightly. This is the dip you see when you place your straight-edge on the cutting table.

My left fence is still out of square so they're sending me a new one.

Thx gdoebs I think that you may be talking about the left and right table fences which I don't have. Anyways I thingk that I may almost have it solved.
thx
Lambeater