Im doing a bunch of door casing and am trying to use a buscuit / glue / clam clamp method for the first time. I cut my miters with the fine finish blade which basically polishes the edges of my 2 1/2" Pine Mouldings. When mitered the 2 1/2" moulding is about 3 1/2" long and I stick a buscuit in there. The busicuit is gluing up nice but the face of the miter is not. After wiping away the excess glue and letting dry overnight the face of the miter is not stuck. Cracking open the joint reveals the area is glue starved. I suspect the issue is two fold. 1: The wood edge grain has been closed by the finish blade and 2: The Titebond redcap is just too runny and flushes itself away. Any hints?
Kapex Fine Blades and Titebond
- Thread starter Chas
- Start date
Brice Burrell
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I'm not the biggest fan of the Kapex fine blade. Nothing really wrong with it but there isn't a big improvement over the standard wood blade.
Here are a couple of things to try. You're probably right about the glue not penetrating the wood if it's been burnished by the saw blade, try standard blade. The second thing is adjust the clam clamps to apply less clamping pressure. There are two bolts that allow the cam to swing a little more/less to lessen or increase clamping pressure, check out the instructions for more on how to do this. Another is make sure you've got the busicuit cut correctly. Also test fit the miter without the busicuit to make sure you've got a good fit.
You need a flat work surface to get the clamps to hold the joint correctly. It's possible to clamp the joint skewed so only part of the joint's surface is in contact making a poor glue bond. Let me know how get along on your next attempt.
Here are a couple of things to try. You're probably right about the glue not penetrating the wood if it's been burnished by the saw blade, try standard blade. The second thing is adjust the clam clamps to apply less clamping pressure. There are two bolts that allow the cam to swing a little more/less to lessen or increase clamping pressure, check out the instructions for more on how to do this. Another is make sure you've got the busicuit cut correctly. Also test fit the miter without the busicuit to make sure you've got a good fit.
You need a flat work surface to get the clamps to hold the joint correctly. It's possible to clamp the joint skewed so only part of the joint's surface is in contact making a poor glue bond. Let me know how get along on your next attempt.
Michael Kellough
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Mettes said:
I was just about to suggest that and it goes especially for the pine that the OP is using.
Pine end grain soaks up glue like a sponge. It takes two applications of fully spread glue
to get a good bond.
Another option is to use thick viscosity cryo glue for the pine, continue with the regular
wood glue on the buiscuit. Then you only need to clamp for a couple of minutes max.
While in the clamps bub some 180 sandpaper over the joint to get some dust into any gaps
in the joint and mix with the glue.
Rob-GB
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I suspect the main culprit of the problem is in the fact you say the fine blade polishes the cut face. Try a quick rub with say 120 grit with a sanding block to
give back a bit of surface texture for the glue to grab on to. The biscuits are glueing up nicely due to their textured surface that increases the bonding surface area.
Hope this helps, Rob.
give back a bit of surface texture for the glue to grab on to. The biscuits are glueing up nicely due to their textured surface that increases the bonding surface area.
Hope this helps, Rob.
WarnerConstCo.
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2P-10.
The only things that I seem to successfully glue with 2P-10 are my fingers! Seriously, I use the CA glues for tacking, but I still don't have full confidence in them for strong joint connections. Maybe I just don't understand the physics, but if a glue sets in 5 seconds, how can it soak in, even a little bit into the wood fibres?
Dan
Dan
WarnerConstCo.
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Dan Rush said:
What thickness one did you try?
I have had the glue soak up the grain quicker then I can spray the activator on the other piece and put them together.
I have broken some joints that I glued together with 2p-10 and the wood fibers tore before the glue separated.
It took me a bit to not get it all over my fingers.
+1 on the 2p10. I use the thick. I wouldnt use it with biscuits though. I use it with domino reinforced miters all the time. All that glue surface and that joint is bullet proof. doesnt work too well with festools dominos though. Since they are too tight. I make my own. enough for each project so they are fresh!
Well, I got it all to work. I moved the buscuit slot up a bit and just paid a lot more attention to the placement of the clam clamps. I also hot glued on some 3/16" plywood and clamped the legs down to the workbench to keep it all straight. The result is about as perfect a casing job as I have ever seen. The hardest part now is cutting the drywall back where it is proud of the jambs.
WarnerConstCo.
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Chas said:
The drywall part is the easy part, use your hammer and smoosh it back.
