KAPEX KSC 60 fatal flaws

mc4man2

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2026
Messages
6
Just got one today, used for an hr or so installing some 1.25" high shoe molding.
While it cuts great, adjusts angles smoothly & accurately, it is a terribly flawed machine.
Whoever designed it is quite clueless as to real world scenarios.
While I've seen it mentioned elsewhere that the shadow line is accurate, it's not. Depending on whether the cutoff is left or right it's consistently 1/32 to 1/16 off.
But that's minor to the biggest flaw that makes this machine virtually unusable.
The tiny little lock-start button is a complete joke.
It's only on the left side of the trigger itself meaning that only when using your right hand's thumb is it even remotely usable. Noting that because it's on the trigger it has to be pushed in far enough to go inside housing.
When cutting a piece where cutoff is to the left then you need to operate this mess with your left hand, pulling trigger with middle finger while attempting to push in button with forefinger. What a joke.., one puts most of their concentration on this spastic maneuver rather than the task of cutting.
Any well designed saw would use a double sided lever to release the trigger internally using either the left or right thumbs as need be.
Honestly this button on trigger is a money saving garbage design on very expensive saw.
The only people this saw is good for is those cutting flat stock or moldings they can hold with their left hand or clamp, other than that save your money.
 
Never used a KCS60. Is its start button same as the one on the KS120?
No it is not.

Love my KSC.

Spend 5 minutes looking at the saw switch, you’ll figure out howe to solve the problem. I’m left handed.

Tom
 
Just got one today, used for an hr or so installing some 1.25" high shoe molding.
While it cuts great, adjusts angles smoothly & accurately, it is a terribly flawed machine.
Whoever designed it is quite clueless as to real world scenarios.
While I've seen it mentioned elsewhere that the shadow line is accurate, it's not. Depending on whether the cutoff is left or right it's consistently 1/32 to 1/16 off.
But that's minor to the biggest flaw that makes this machine virtually unusable.
The tiny little lock-start button is a complete joke.
It's only on the left side of the trigger itself meaning that only when using your right hand's thumb is it even remotely usable. Noting that because it's on the trigger it has to be pushed in far enough to go inside housing.
When cutting a piece where cutoff is to the left then you need to operate this mess with your left hand, pulling trigger with middle finger while attempting to push in button with forefinger. What a joke.., one puts most of their concentration on this spastic maneuver rather than the task of cutting.
Any well designed saw would use a double sided lever to release the trigger internally using either the left or right thumbs as need be.
Honestly this button on trigger is a money saving garbage design on very expensive saw.
The only people this saw is good for is those cutting flat stock or moldings they can hold with their left hand or clamp, other than that save your money.
Did you have a chance to try the saw before deciding to buy it?
 
Unfortunately not, dealer didn't have floor models.
Debating returning vs hacking that button.
I sorta think they went really 'basic' with it.
If so it's just spring loaded in the trigger & works by physically blocking the trigger from going up into handle housing.
Would like to see a decent exploded parts list or someone's comment on how to disable, no luck there.
The less than accurate shadow line can be worked around or gotten used to.
The main reason it would be handy is the fixed slider bars can block ones vision a bit, especially on the right side
 
If 5 min means cut it off then just say so
Has nothing to do with what hand you are (I'm lefty too), it's what side is being cut off.
I like to hold my pieces against the fence on saving side
 
I had that problem with the switch, I was going to disable it but never did because of warranty, anyway last year I bought a new one and sold the old one, the newer ones have a new switch that has no lock or guard lock. Someone was listening in the design department.
 
Interesting, I see that now.
Very disappointed this dealer (tool nut) sells old stock, will try to return.
The top guard lock is an additional hassle that's not needed.
 
The button is a requirement in the USA, just like on the 120 it has the “blade bolt gaurd”.

Tom
 
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