Kapex MFT15 Mobile

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Electric Trim

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Mar 17, 2011
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I still have a few additions I'd like to make on my Kapex command station, but I thought you guys might enjoy/offer some good input on it.

Monday, I took the bottom off and added some angle iron to eliminate the sag in it.

Notice how it also doubles as a dinner table!
 
How long did it take to get the U.L. Listing?

Since it's a jobsite table used by yourself and employees plus it doubles as a food table, I'm guessing OSHA and Health Dept. inspections every so often?  [tongue]

Very nice!
 
Very nice indeed.  I'm curious about what you are drinking with your salad & the location of the energy bar?  [big grin]
 
That's a nice idea.  My crystal ball says you will eventually be switching to metal coverplates due to frequent breakage of the plastic ones.  If you make a new version someday, you may want to think about putting a GFCI in as your first outlet (maybe you already did but don't have a picture), and putting in metal boxes and conduit instead of romex may make the inspectors a little happier.
 
A GFCI and a Syscooler would really make this marketable. 
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Electric Trim said:
I still have a few additions I'd like to make on my Kapex command station, but I thought you guys might enjoy/offer some good input on it.

Monday, I took the bottom off and added some angle iron to eliminate the sag in it.

Notice how it also doubles as a dinner table!
Click to expand...

What no Festool Green table clothes or napkins..... OH....how Bohemian.  [scared]

Wow can I really power my Kapex with an energy bar!?!?!?!?  ???

Like the design.

With all the outlets are you plugging that in to a 30 amp circuit? 

Do you think a 2"x4" box would need the "L" iron?  Okay maybe first I should ask did the "L" iron solve the problem sag issue, seems a bit light to hold that much.

Cheers,
Steve
 
RonWen said:
Very nice indeed.  I'm curious about what you are drinking with your salad & the location of the energy bar?   [big grin]
Click to expand...

I took the pictures at an HGTV job that we did earlier this week.  It was in the evening so our "6-pack after 6 p.m." policy was being applied with "Fat Tire".
 
TJ Cornish said:
That's a nice idea.  My crystal ball says you will eventually be switching to metal coverplates due to frequent breakage of the plastic ones.  If you make a new version someday, you may want to think about putting a GFCI in as your first outlet (maybe you already did but don't have a picture), and putting in metal boxes and conduit instead of romex may make the inspectors a little happier.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input.

I do need to get some more durable cover plates.  I have "unbreakable" plates, but they're not so unbreakable...

Do you think I should use conduit even though it's concealed behind 1/2" plywood?
 
dwillis said:
I like it!  On a tangent, what kind of sawhorses are you using?
Click to expand...

Stanley Fat Max saw horses.  We have about 3 pairs of them.  Definitely my favorite because of they're durability and easy adjustment.  Cost about $70 per set.
 
With all the outlets are you plugging that in to a 30 amp circuit? 

Do you think a 2"x4" box would need the "L" iron?  Okay maybe first I should ask did the "L" iron solve the problem sag issue, seems a bit light to hold that much.

Cheers,
Steve
[/quote]

I've tried to make it light weight because I move it around a lot.  Side note... I'd like to make a base for it to lock onto for shop use.

Even though it has 15 outlets to plug up to, it doesn't mean I'm using them all at the same time.  I just don't like switching out plugs on half a dozen tools and I've gotten tired of loosing small power splitters and looking for them for 15 minutes every day.  It allows me to have everything I need plugged up and ready to go.
 
Yes, that's what they look like to me too.  I have a set of those, they're nice but they are light duty, I don't think they'd stand up to heavy use.
[/quote]

Brice, do you have another kind that you like?  These have gotten the job done especially compared to cheapy ones, but I wouldn't say they're super durable.  I saw someone that made a 2x4 assemble to case in the top and give him a surface that he didn't have to worry about beating up and he could saw across but I've never made anything like that.
 
Electric Trim said:
Brice, do you have another kind that you like?  These have gotten the job done especially compared to cheapy ones, but I wouldn't say they're super durable.  I saw someone that made a 2x4 assemble to case in the top and give him a surface that he didn't have to worry about beating up and he could saw across but I've never made anything like that.
Click to expand...

My Stanley horses were a lot cheaper (although I bought them 3-4 years ago), maybe they are different.  I have several sets of Trojan's, pricey nowadays. 
 
[thumbs up] to the Trojan's, seriously they are great saw horses.  I think I have those same cheap Stanley's that you have Brice.  They've sagged and broken and collapse on me at the worst times.
 
That mitersaw station is just begging to be built as a torsion box design.  I've found that heavy-a$$ stuff tends not to be pulled out as much.  If it's a pain, you'll make do with a simple setup for smaller jobs.

Build that with a torsion-box design and you could make it just as strong and probably at half the weight.  1/4" BB plywood ribs with 3/8" BBB plywood top/sides/bottom and you'd half a 30-40lb miter station that you'd actually pull out of the trailer every time.

No reason for conduit inside the unit - use romex and route and anchor it properly.

The number of outlets does not require a higher amperage 30amp cord - the key is versatility of hookup positions: this is not a unit that is going to have every outlet used at once - 12ga wire inside and standard heavy duty 15amp plug is plenty sufficient for the intended use imo.

The trick setup would be to buy the Dewalt stand, which only weighs about 35lbs and is super storable, and build a quick release support/stop/fence setup that clips right on to it.  No need for horses and quick setup.

Julian

 
Regarding the sawhorses, I've had those Stanley alum/plastic sawhorses for a few years.  Unless you've got a bunch of idiots throwing 2x12's from the roof on them, I've found them to be quite durable enough and certainly for a miter saw stand where the load is balanced and static.  They adjust for height and uneven ground and store in about 4" of space.  best I've found for lightweight & durable saw horses.

Another option is the Husky X-horses.  Very cool and super durable.  Only need one for about a 3x3 worksurface.  Two of them would hold near 1000lbs.  I use one for a quick mitersaw stand or for a simple worksurface, and also screw my Kreg jig to it for a few pocket holes.

Julian
 
I like your design but question incorporating the power strips.  It just seems to be an accident waiting to happen with someone tripping on a cord and the whole top and saw tumbling to the ground. 

But maybe I am just being oversensitive to the idea as I have had more than one tool hit the ground because I tripped on a cord.
 
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