Kapex snapping moulding

[regulator95]

Ok update.. I noticed something very strange. I cut a piece of chair rail. It snapped as well. I am providing pictures of what I see. The following are three pictures of the molding. As I was cutting it laying flat I noticed as I pushed the blade all the way through the piece at the very very end it looked like it didn't cut all the way through. Literally like a mm. Almost like the blade wasn't low enough as the very back of the blade passed through the fence. Yes I have made sure its not in the plunge cut mode. I have the lever on the right in the up position.

Here is the molding I cut. It was mitered 45 degrees to the left. You can hopefully see what I am talking about. Right at the fence the tip of the tooth is just about .1 mm above the table

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  Based on those pics. I would check that nothing is on the rails keeping the saw head from sliding all the way to the back. Would chip or dust stuck to the rail maybe underneath where you can't see it. And also make sure the depth limiter for trenching is truly all the way "off".

Seth

 

[mastercabman]

I'm moving to CT.

Me too!!!!!

Before you guys head up grab all the warmth you can...I don't like this winter stuff!

It's not that much warmer here!  [laughing]

 

[regulator95]

Confirmed it is going all the way back and it is not in the plunge position  [sad]

 

[peter halle]

You might want to check that your depth stop limit adjustment is fully disengaged.  Here is a screen shot from the supplemental manual:

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Peter

 

[wrightwoodwork]

To me that looks like one of two things either the head is not sliding all the way forward, so check there is nothing stopping it also check that sacrificial fences aren't too high also stopping the motor sliding all the way home. And the other is user error where you come to the end of the cut you are easing the pressure off the saw and it is lifting before the cut is finished. That cut should be able to be made with no sacrificial fences I would try without the sacrificial fences. If it can't make the cut and nothing obvious stopping also does the rails by any chance maybe have like plastic buffers or similar to protect in transit when the saw is new that have to be removed for the first use.

 

[dpeagles]

So, did you ever figure out what was going on?  I saw a youtube review of the kapex and the guy did say " the blade guard has quite a bit of force".  Perhaps the plastic guard is doing something.

Anyway, I would sure like to know what was going on.

 

[ccmviking]

    Was this cut using the Festool blade or a Forrest?  The Forrest 10" blades are a little smaller and you would have to adjust the maximum cut depth a little to allow the saw to drop a little deeper.  It's an allen bolt toward the rear of the saw. 

    If you bevel cut, rather than miter cut, you won't have those small miters exploding.  Sacrificial fences are a waste of time in my opinion.  Just lay that saw over and cut and you won't have that problem.

Chris...

Ok update.. I noticed something very strange. I cut a piece of chair rail. It snapped as well. I am providing pictures of what I see. The following are three pictures of the molding. As I was cutting it laying flat I noticed as I pushed the blade all the way through the piece at the very very end it looked like it didn't cut all the way through. Literally like a mm. Almost like the blade wasn't low enough as the very back of the blade passed through the fence. Yes I have made sure its not in the plunge cut mode. I have the lever on the right in the up position.

Here is the molding I cut. It was mitered 45 degrees to the left. You can hopefully see what I am talking about. Right at the fence the tip of the tooth is just about .1 mm above the table

 

[regulator95]

Chris

Really? This is EXACTLY what I was looking for the entire time. I wanted to change the blade plunge depth.. GRRRR I already returned the saw. Also I wish I had tried beveling instead of mitering. Everything about my saw was perfect minus the blade depth  Sad Sad

Shaun

     Was this cut using the Festool blade or a Forrest?  The Forrest 10" blades are a little smaller and you would have to adjust the maximum cut depth a little to allow the saw to drop a little deeper.  It's an allen bolt toward the rear of the saw. 

     If you bevel cut, rather than miter cut, you won't have those small miters exploding.  Sacrificial fences are a waste of time in my opinion.  Just lay that saw over and cut and you won't have that problem.

Chris...

Ok update.. I noticed something very strange. I cut a piece of chair rail. It snapped as well. I am providing pictures of what I see. The following are three pictures of the molding. As I was cutting it laying flat I noticed as I pushed the blade all the way through the piece at the very very end it looked like it didn't cut all the way through. Literally like a mm. Almost like the blade wasn't low enough as the very back of the blade passed through the fence. Yes I have made sure its not in the plunge cut mode. I have the lever on the right in the up position.

Here is the molding I cut. It was mitered 45 degrees to the left. You can hopefully see what I am talking about. Right at the fence the tip of the tooth is just about .1 mm above the table

 

[overanalyze]

I had the same thing with mine. Thanks for the tip. Used the Allen nut to lower the blade a bit!

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

When in doubt, DO NOT treat the FOG as a substitute for calling Festool.  [scared]

There is some great information to be gleaned here, but if you have a genuine issue with your tool, call Festool, and if a phone call doesn't resolve the issue, send the tool in for service.