Kapex Table not flat

[witchrobin]

With the increase of price especially in Canada, I jumped on the purchase of a Kapex a few days ago.

I opened it up today, placed a Lee Valley straight edge on the table and was able to rock the straight edge. Applying pressure to the straight edge on the left table, i was able to easily slide the green warranty card under the straight edge on the right table. I can slide the card all the way towards the center of the table. The warranty card measures 0.008" on my caliber. So it's off at least that much. At different miter angle, it rocks a bit more.

This is not normal right?  Anyone experiencing this?

Thanks.

 

[Brice Burrell]

You'll find this with almost any miter saw. 

 

[witchrobin]

Wow!  The reason I ask was to make sure what I am seeing is not a norm for the Kapex and that mine was not QA properly.  Howerver, if what you're saying is true then I am going to return the Kapex.  My $200 10" miter saw that I just measured was dead flat across all miter angles.  You would think that a > $1700 saw (yes that's how much it is in Canada after tax) would have much tighter tolerance.  It's like saying an Audi A4 is built to the same quality standard as a Chevy Cavalier. 

 

[Paul G]

Call Festool, I don't have one but I'd expect it to be flat also.

 

[Kev]

My suggestion ... cut some stuff and measure the result, not the table.

 

[mouppe]

Register a piece of the left side of the saw, make a 90 degree cut. Repeat for the right side of the saw. Butt the two pieces together and see if you have a straight piece or not.

This will give you a better idea of how far from level the two sides are.

I agree with those who have posted that the table should be flatter than yours seems to be.

 

[batcave]

I've never checked mine. Maybe I shouldn't now, so I never know. I had a 200 dollar craftsman, I gave it to my brother so he didn't have to use my kapex anymore. Kind of a cheap insurance policy if you ask me. Call festool about the concern. They will quickly resolve the issue.

 

[bryan1982]

Mine rocked on the black inset in the middle take it out and refit to see if that fixes it.
it fixed mine

Cheers

Bryan

 

[Serge]

I have the same problem, see this post :
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/festool-kapex-ks-120-eb-cutting-issue/msg299899/#msg299899

My Kapex is back to germany for weeks now.

Be for sure that the Kapex is on a very flat surface otherwise the Kapex will bend resulting in a not flat kapex table.
Also the mid section will move up and down when you slide the saw towards you, but I think this
will be in the tolerance of Festool.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Call Festool, I don't have one but I'd expect it to be flat also.

That's the problem, people expect it to be flat.  I'm telling you almost every saw (not just the Kapex) is not perfectly flat by design.  Generally the center table is raised slightly, and I mean slightly-a few thousandth of an inch.  What the op's straight edge is showing that when pressed down on the left side then across the raised center, you're going to have the straight edge off the on the right side.

My suggestion ... cut some stuff and measure the result, not the table.

Kev, I don't know how many times I've said this very thing about perceived problems.  I understand these tools are expensive and expectation are high, as they should be.  But don't get out the expensive squares and straight edges and not any wood before you convince yourself there is a problem. 

 

[Rob Z]

I think the relevant question is:  what is Festool's design spec for flatness.

Before I sent a tool in ( at considerable cost for either Festool or for me) I would ask what their spec for flatness is and check it.

 

[gkaiseril]

The top maybe warping under its own weight. As long as the saw is stable there should be no issue. Most of the support for the saw is at the 4 corner feet. There would be more of an issue with a crown in the table and raising the center of the saw so it does not sit flat and solid.

You might be able to add some support under the table and shim the top level.

I would expect any mdf sheet supported at the edges or corners to dip over time. Counter tops have many support locations under them so there is less over all dip and the top veneer may add enough structural support to reduce the sagging or cupping.

Edited to add:
Thought this was an issue with a MF table

 

[jacko9]

The saw table should be the "reference surface" and should be flat and straight to within some tolerance.  A review of router tables indicates that the Festool router table is within .002" flat and that seems to be a reasonable flatness.  Contact Festool and ask what the build tolerance is and see what they say before you package something that heavy up for return.

Jack

 

[josephgewing]

I had my Kapex lag screwed down to a table and was getting burned corners on one side of the cut in the corner of the cut board.  I measured and measured with squares and straignt edges and everything *seemed* flat and square.

Then I loosened the mounting screws and viola the burned wood disappeared.  I had to assume that the bed was warped, bent, tweaked just enough to cause the burning.  I tightened the lag screws down gently and every cut has been fine for the last 2 years.

I second the advice to try cutting some wood and see if the cuts come out square and ok in other ways.

Joe

 

[dltflt]

I don't know how flat my table is buy I do know it cuts dead on every time.

 

[witchrobin]

Thanks to those that provided suggestions. I do agree about the tolerance limit, but > 0.008" seems to be bit high, you can definitely feel and hear the straight edge rocking up and down. 

When I did the measurement, the kapex was sitting on my hardwood floor. I'll try to put the saw on a flat mdf table top and remeasure.

 

[batcave]

Hope you get it ironed out. The kapex is a great saw.

 

[witchrobin]

I redid my measurement on a flat table over the weekend and still have the same problem. I took the Kapex back to leevalley and exchanged for another unit.  Did the same flatness test on the new Kapex table and it was flat across all miter angles. So, my first Kapex was definitely off.

I did some test cuts last night and noticed that i am not getting a complete through cut when cutting with a miter angle. See linked photo.

When i make a left 45 miter, the right piece of the cut leaves that little corner, but when i make a right 45 miter, the left piece leaves behind the little corner.  At 90, it cuts through fine.  I already tried lowering the blade depth a bit more with the adjusting the blade depth adjustment bolt. Am i missing something else?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ekfmriwdih8l1fs/IMG_20140408_182239.jpg

 

[semenza]

I redid my measurement on a flat table over the weekend and still have the same problem. I took the Kapex back to leevalley and exchanged for another unit.  Did the same flatness test on the new Kapex table and it was flat across all miter angles. So, my first Kapex was definitely off.

I did some test cuts last night and noticed that i am not getting a complete through cut when cutting with a miter angle. See linked photo.

When i make a left 45 miter, the right piece of the cut leaves that little corner, but when i make a right 45 miter, the left piece leaves behind the little corner.  At 90, it cuts through fine.  I already tried lowering the blade depth a bit more with the adjusting the blade depth adjustment bolt. Am i missing something else?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ekfmriwdih8l1fs/IMG_20140408_182239.jpg

Make sure the depth limiter is disengaged.  Check for anything on the rails/tubes that might be preventing the head from being pushed all the way tight  to the back.

Seth

 

[witchrobin]

The depth limiter was definitely disengaged. I have to check again to see if anything is blocking the slider from going all the way back, but it felt like it was sliding all the way back when i did the test cuts. Maybe i just need to adjust the blade depth even more. I already loosen the depth adjustment bolt at least 1 turn.