Kapex tear out issues... Frustrated and disapppointed with Festool

[orm8426]

The OP and I are worlds apart when it comes to expectations.  I got my Kapex because it makes squarer cuts than any other SCMS in the world.  And by that I mean square and straight across the whole length of it's cut.  Also important to me was it's light weight and easy luggability (is that a word?).  And because it has decent dust collection and you can set it up close to the wall.  When I took it out of the box it got about the same tear out I was experiencing with a Freud 60T in my Rigid miter saw.  For me that was fine.

Have you used the Bosch GCM12SD Glide Miter Saw? Cuts perfectly square across the entire length of its cut, which is a massive 14" and can be used against a wall. Quite heavy though, but it is a 12" saw...

Plus straight out of the box with no modification using zero clearance inserts, etc it doesn't tear out like the example in this thread.

 

[John H]

I got my Kapex because it makes squarer cuts than any other SCMS in the world. 

Not sure where you came up with that - but my Bosch GCM12SD Glide is right on the money and since I don't have the need to move it, the only thing I have to lug around is the $850 I saved....  ps, the table is perfectly flat also

 

[JimD]

I don't have a Kapex but that amount of tearout on the "bad" side of the piece isn't really a lot.  The other side is clean, right?  So the side with the slight tearout should be the back.

A negative 5 degree hook is to avoid it self feeding.  If you switch to a positive hook blade, be prepared for the saw to want to pull itself into the wood.  I'd stick with the negative 5 degree hook. 

Have you tried swapping blades with the dealer you bought the saw from?  A blade is a lot easier to swap than a saw. 

My biggest comment is to make the back side the side with fuzz.  I get that kind of fuzz on both my non-sliding CMSs and my radial arm saw.  Also my table saw when cross cutting.  I guess you expected better and there could be a blade issue but I think what you posted a picture of isn't really a huge issue.  It's is fuzzed up but there seems to be minimal depth to it.  Deep splinters are hard to sand out.  Really thin stuff goes away with a swipe of sandpaper. 

 

[fshanno]

The OP and I are worlds apart when it comes to expectations.  I got my Kapex because it makes squarer cuts than any other SCMS in the world.  And by that I mean square and straight across the whole length of it's cut.  Also important to me was it's light weight and easy luggability (is that a word?).  And because it has decent dust collection and you can set it up close to the wall.  When I took it out of the box it got about the same tear out I was experiencing with a Freud 60T in my Rigid miter saw.  For me that was fine.

Have you used the Bosch GCM12SD Glide Miter Saw? Cuts perfectly square across the entire length of its cut, which is a massive 14" and can be used against a wall. Quite heavy though, but it is a 12" saw...

Plus straight out of the box with no modification using zero clearance inserts, etc it doesn't tear out like the example in this thread.

I waited until my dealer got a Glide demo unit cause I didn't want to spend $1300 on a SCMS.  Did extensive testing with Glide using a Freud 80T blade vs. the Kapex and it's stock blade and ended up spending $1300. 

 

[orm8426]

The OP and I are worlds apart when it comes to expectations.  I got my Kapex because it makes squarer cuts than any other SCMS in the world.  And by that I mean square and straight across the whole length of it's cut.  Also important to me was it's light weight and easy luggability (is that a word?).  And because it has decent dust collection and you can set it up close to the wall.  When I took it out of the box it got about the same tear out I was experiencing with a Freud 60T in my Rigid miter saw.  For me that was fine.

Have you used the Bosch GCM12SD Glide Miter Saw? Cuts perfectly square across the entire length of its cut, which is a massive 14" and can be used against a wall. Quite heavy though, but it is a 12" saw...

Plus straight out of the box with no modification using zero clearance inserts, etc it doesn't tear out like the example in this thread.

I waited until my dealer got a Glide demo unit cause I didn't want to spend $1300 on a SCMS.  Did extensive testing with Glide using a Freud 80T blade vs. the Kapex and it's stock blade and ended up spending $1300.

I find this interesting as here in the UK, there's virtually no price difference between the two.

So when I was buying a new SCMS price wasn't a factor between the two. So I wasn't trying to save money by buying one over the other, nor did I have the pseudo marketing psychology of "more expensive must mean its bette" in my mind.  They were simply two similarly priced machines and I found the Bosch to be a better designed and better functioning piece of equipment that the Kapex.

 

[Grasshopper]

I just made a slew of cuts with my Kapex in a spare bedroom this afternoon.  I'm always thrilled that I can cut inside with a SCMS!  The dust collection is fantastic with my Kapex.

 

[Renovatedspaces]

It's been over a month. Any update from the OP?

 

[Hawkeye1434]

Any good carpenter and I'm not saying you aren't, usually makes a zero clearance for the bottom and a sacrificial fence on the back which almost 99.9 % of the time eliminates all chip out or problems like I see for you.  One other solid thought you will see more tear out if a piece of equipment isn't up to full speed or power make sure your saw is actually getting all the amperage it needs to get the blade up to proper speed those three things could change everything for you if not send her back that's what makes festool so great

 

[Rick Christopherson]

Any good carpenter and I'm not saying you aren't, usually makes a zero clearance for the bottom and a sacrificial fence on the back which almost 99.9 % of the time eliminates all chip out or problems like I see for you.  One other solid thought you will see more tear out if a piece of equipment isn't up to full speed or power make sure your saw is actually getting all the amperage it needs to get the blade up to proper speed those three things could change everything for you if not send her back that's what makes festool so great

Because this has been mentioned a couple of times recently, it is probably worth it to point out that a zero clearance insert on the base of a miter saw has no bearing on tearout. It does affect tearout on a tablesaw, but not a miter saw. The blade teeth are entering the wood from below.