Kapex Workstation

GarryMartin said:
ictusbrucks said:
My cabinet construction is a bit simpleton compared to yours, but here is my take on your great concept.

I'm trying to get around to starting my MFT and KAPEX workstations and have been reviewing my old notes. I've found quite a few images I'd saved at the time, so where I can, I'm trying to add them back in to the threads where the photos were previously lost.

Hope someone finds this useful and that it's OK with the original authors.

GarryMartin ,
How does your set up work out?  Does it grab all the dust?  Trying to decide whether or not to bite the bullet and just drill the mini-holes.
 
[member=11629]GarryMartin[/member]

You are da bomb mate

to the OP man thats a nice set up
 
Liaison00 said:
GarryMartin ,
How does your set up work out?  Does it grab all the dust?  Trying to decide whether or not to bite the bullet and just drill the mini-holes.

It's not my set up - I just added some photos back in to the thread. The Kapex station is by [member=14173]nicemac[/member]
 
GarryMartin said:
Liaison00 said:
GarryMartin ,
How does your set up work out?  Does it grab all the dust?  Trying to decide whether or not to bite the bullet and just drill the mini-holes.

It's not my set up - I just added some photos back in to the thread. The Kapex station is by [member=14173]nicemac[/member]
[member=11629]GarryMartin[/member]

If it was Garrys it would be high tech solar powered totally digital and remotely operated

thats my buddy
hehehehehehe
 
Took this pic tonight without cleaning up… I would not change a thing since my original design![attachimg=1]
 

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ictusbrucks said:
one more question for ya... what is that clear plastic Y fitting you have both hoses coming off of?? Is that some sort of manifold you bought, or is it just shopmade?
I bought these from Clearvue cyclones.
 
So the downdraft table is connected to your main DC, but the Kapex is connected to your Rigid shopvac? Just trying to understand. I'm in the middle of designing my own Kapex miter saw station and I like the idea of the downdraft table, but I want it to be something my Fein turbo can gobble up rather than turning on my big 5hp central cyclone every time I need to make a three second cut.
 
[member=14173]nicemac[/member]
Hi. Thank you for posting this, very timely for me as well. Very nice station and cabinets!!

I am in the middle of doing much the same with Kapex. Currently using a Oneida Dust Cobra on the Kapex port and other smaller tools...was pondering running a line of my 2HP larger cyclone dust collector and using both collectors when using the Kapex...not sure I have enough suction from the 2HP for the downdraft table though...

Also as another member stated are you concerned about cycling your large dust collector for a couple second cut on Kapex...I have always been under the impression the larger collectors are designed for more continuous use with the likes of jointers/planers ect...then again folks use them on table saws....just a thought.

It appears in your last picture you might have installed a tee track to the left of your saw....if so is that for a stop of some sort...I'm trying to decide on a stop system as well...was thinking about something like a tee track running the length of left table, or 2 tracks running back to front so fence can be slid back when not needed, or boards not straight.

Thanks again for you post and the pictures...very nice build!
Greg
 
Thank you for the kind words.  I installed a remote for my dust collector and mounted it on the manifold  just to the left of the machine.  I routinely use it just for a single cut, even if it’s only for a few seconds. I’ve been doing it for years. I see no harm in doing that.  I have the five hp  power Clearvue cyclone with a big impeller, and don’t feel like you could get away with a much smaller system to thoroughly clean the area around the Kapex.  That downdraft table requires a lot of suction. 
Yes, I installed a T track to the left of the saw just for consistent repetitive cuts. I debated doing it on both sides, and saw no real value but bought the track  in case I needed it. I never installed it, and gave it to a friend.  I’ve never felt like I needed a sliding fence, I just use the fence on the Kapex itself.
 
Hi. Thank you for your reply.
Yes have both my collectors on remotes as well...I have a woodworking vest with lots of pockets I carry them in... otherwise I loose the remotes, tape measures, pencils...ect...lol

Good to hear the quick cycles have not been a problem with your cyclone, also suspect it will depend on the quality of the machine which in your case is not a concern.

I wondered if it might require more than 2HP for the downdraft design...didn't think I'd have enough suction for that option, I'll have to look for a different solution...

What are you using for a stop with your t track?
I purchased the Kreg setup some time ago, with both stops....when I said sliding fence, I more meant sliding it back out of the way on t tracks behind kapex fence.  I have a six foot table to left of saw, and seems like lots of folks keep a fence in line with Kapex fence....works fine unless you are cutting something not straight yet....hence I like your idea, or the ability to move the kreg fence back a bit but still be able to use the stops. I have not installed on new miter station yet...still pondering....lol
Thanks again for sharing your ideas.
Greg
 
gnlman said:
Good to hear the quick cycles have not been a problem with your cyclone, also suspect it will depend on the quality of the machine which in your case is not a concern.

I think it has less to do with the quality of the machine/motor and more with the size of the motor... I recall that large motors should be run a minimum of 5-10 minutes, but I can't seem to find the source.
 
gnlman said:
[member=14173]nicemac[/member]

I am in the middle of doing much the same with Kapex. Currently using a Oneida Dust Cobra on the Kapex port and other smaller tools...

How does a Dust Cobra perform on the Kapex, do you see any improvement over a Festool CT or shopvac?
 
gnlman said:
What are you using for a stop with your t track?
I purchased the Kreg setup some time ago, with both stops....when I said sliding fence, I more meant sliding it back out of the way on t tracks behind kapex fence.  I have a six foot table to left of saw, and seems like lots of folks keep a fence in line with Kapex fence....works fine unless you are cutting something not straight yet....hence I like your idea, or the ability to move the kreg fence back a bit but still be able to use the stops. I have not installed on new miter station yet...still pondering....lol
Thanks again for sharing your ideas.
Greg

I use one of these two, depending on the circumstance:https://www.incra.com/jig_fixture-build-it_system-brackets.htmlhttps://www.incra.com/jig_fixture-build-it_system-clamp.html
I keep the bracket sitting beside the track at all times, and that is my go-to. Occasionally, I will use the clamp, with a small piece of scrap, if the stop needs to be in that no-man's lad between the end of the track and the area that can be reached by the Festool clamp on the saw.

gnlman said:
I think it has less to do with the quality of the machine/motor and more with the size of the motor... I recall that large motors should be run a minimum of 5-10 minutes, but I can't seem to find the source.
Never heard that one. I cannot think of any scenario where a motor would need to be run for a specified minimum time. I DO leave it running 5-10 seconds after a cut to clear the sawdust from the plumbing.
 
ryanjg117 said:
gnlman said:
Good to hear the quick cycles have not been a problem with your cyclone, also suspect it will depend on the quality of the machine which in your case is not a concern.

I think it has less to do with the quality of the machine/motor and more with the size of the motor... I recall that large motors should be run a minimum of 5-10 minutes, but I can't seem to find the source.

I know that my well pump manufacturer says that I should have enough storage capacity in the system so that the pump motor runs for 1 full minute at a minimum.
 
thanks for the info nicemac...looks like a good setup for repeatable cuts, and keeps your table surface flat for putting stuff on....lol...

jonathan-m - I'd say it collects a bit more than my CT36, but it also has almost twice the suction. Still small amount of debris on table ect hence my interest in this thread...I'd like to think it's collecting more of the dust..but no way to measure that...I'm of the opinion the small chunks of leftover debris is not what hurts your lungs, just the dust...which the cobra achieves. It's also nice as you can hook up a small piping system to other tools due to the extra cfm. I have pipe running over to the corner of my cutting table so hose comes from ceiling. In process of adding drops back to my drill press, and my table top ridgid sander as well. I've been really happy with Cobra, it's well made, only slightly louder than CT36 and no where near the screaming sound of my shopvac...Hepa filter and a pulse arm to reverse flow to clean filter....very nice unit.

I have a small table saw at end of cutting table as well that I use for narrow cuts..mostly melamine. Having the festool hose right there hooked up to piping also allows me to double up on dust collection on table saw...big dust collector for undercabinet collection and festool hose for collecting above blade. I have a "temp" type pipe for overhead collection on table saw...works ok not great....was just in process of placing order for shark gaurd, but I heard the sharkgaurd owner (Lee) passed away during the holidays...have not made inquiry yet out of respect for his family at this time.....
 
ryanjg117 said:
gnlman said:
Good to hear the quick cycles have not been a problem with your cyclone, also suspect it will depend on the quality of the machine which in your case is not a concern.

I think it has less to do with the quality of the machine/motor and more with the size of the motor... I recall that large motors should be run a minimum of 5-10 minutes, but I can't seem to find the source.

I think that is generally applicable to high-inertia / slow to spin up motors. The starting current inrush doesn't taper off until the motor comes up to speed so there can be quite a lot of heating during startups. Dust collectors fall into this category due to the mass of the impeller. A motor made for frequent starts with a high inertia load will be physical larger with heavier windings and may also have provision for forced air cooling - since a fan on the motor shaft is not at full efficiency as the motor is coming up to speed. Strange what one remembers from the depths of bygone careers - in my case an industrial electrician working on big cranes and 4000 HP car shredders... I think Bill Pentz also mentions it somewhere on his web site.
 
UPDATE: I know this is a super old thread, but after 11 years of use, I still would not change anything about this design. It has truly stood the test of time.

I built a game table for my oldest son for Christmas and had some dust after I finished the crosscuts. WTH?  :o Turns out, I had a blast gate open across the shop. Even with a 4" hole across the shop, this setup still captured most (not all) of the dust. That is probably more of a testament to the ClearVue cyclone than my setup, but the combo works well together.

 
nicemac said:
UPDATE: I know this is a super old thread, but after 11 years of use, I still would not change anything about this design. It has truly stood the test of time.

I built a game table for my oldest son for Christmas and had some dust after I finished the crosscuts. WTH?  :o Turns out, I had a blast gate open across the shop. Even with a 4" hole across the shop, this setup :) still captured most (not all) of the dust. That is probably more of a testament to the ClearVue cyclone than my setup, but the combo works well together.

Thread is old but contains valuable information and is an excellent contribution to FOG.  I have had a Kapex and the mobile stand/wings for about a decade.  All three have served me well and the portability is great.  After a couple more projects it will be mostly used in the shop so I am planning to build a permanent miter station with cabinets.  I will make at least one adjustment in my build.  I will “drill” all the holes for the downdraft on the CNC :)
 
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