Kosso Telephone Table build

[ear3]

[member=6193]Rob Z[/member]  The frame saw and shooting plane are actually out of the box solutions, so I'll just give the references here:

The Roubo Frame Saw is the version produced by Bad Axe, based upon the Tom Fidgen design:
http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/kpfs.php

They have options for just giving you the hardware, or a fully assembled saw, as well as throwing in a kerfing plane.  I went with the fully assembled saw.  They offer an excellent wood choice -- two pieces of quarter-sawn wood sandwiched around a thinner piece of walnut.  I did not get the kerfing plane, as I do that on my table saw.

I did some tests and initial impressions after I first got the saw here:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/hand-tools/roubo-frame-saw/

Sometimes I get no drift, sometimes I still do, though I've learned how to control it and, if necessary, switch sides when it happens to bring the saw back.  I can now consistently limit any waste to the size of the kerf.

The Renaissance Woodworker gives a good demonstration of the saw in action:


It has proven to be the perfect solution for me, since I don't really have space for a resaw capable bandsaw (unless I were to box up my lathe or drill press).  The process goes quicker than you might think, though it does give the upper body a real workout.  And I'm not resawing everyday, but rather using it only when I want to bookmatch or do other panel work.  I think the widest board I've resawn so far is 14".

The shooting board is just the out of the box Lee Valley one:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=76855&cat=1,230,41182

I've built a couple of shooting boards for myself, but I discovered that because of the way I end up using the shooting plane, which is for fitting and working on small parts, a fixed 90 or fixed 45 degree board had limited utility.  I much prefer the broader range of capabilities offered by the miter gauge.  I'm not a hand tool fetishist and don't plan on becoming one (not that there's anything wrong with that), and my default for square and plumb cuts is still the Kapex, tracksaw and table saw, but I've found in my woodworking there's a real place for the shooting plane to provide the finishing touches or to do detailed work that would be dangerous and/or wasteful to do with power tools. 

 

[Rob Z]

Edward, thanks for organizing those links.  That gives me plenty to read and consider.

I had seen LV's shooting board before but had missed the miter gauge component. I agree, that would be quite useful.

 

[six-point socket II]

Phenomenally beautiful, Edward!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[ear3]

Just updating the thread to memorialize two additional mods on the cabinet.

First is the installation of some removable walnut shelves on the bottom:

[attachimg=1]

This cabinet will primarily store office supplies and electronics, so I made the spacing of the shelves pretty narrow, supporting them with pocket holed cross pieces that span the front and back legs.  I didn't bother to fill or hide the pocket holes, as this part will be hidden behind the doors.

Secondly, after I started filling up the drawers with stuff I realized that their 5 1/4 depth made for wasted space, so for two of them I added sliding top compartments.

Planed down some walnut to 7/16 and mitred two open boxes:

[attachimg=2]

Then worked with no. 66 beading tool and 1/2 roundnose router bit to create the mating sliding mechanism on some narrow pieces of walnut:

[attachimg=3]  [attachimg=4]

There were a number of different ways I could have made the roundnose, but I went with the beading tool (which I usually just use to make profiles on things like picture frames) because it was easy to center on the wood and cut very quickly.  Incidentally, having the option of using the beading tool in this situation is another benefit of having remade my shop cabinet earlier this summer and bringing all my handtools into one location.  Prior to this, it was stuffed inside a systainer for lack of space in the pegboard cabinet, and so I only thought of it when specific work like picture frames came up.

Trimmed the sliding mechanism pieces on the table saw then attached them the boxes with 2P10 and pin nails, and with screws to the drawer sides:

[attachimg=5]  [attachimg=6]

Giving me this:

[attachimg=7]  [attachimg=8]

This is what that corner of the dining room used to look like:

[attachimg=9]

And now:

[attachimg=10]  [attachimg=11]  [attachimg=12]

 

[Gregor]

Very nice execution.

Though for some reason this thing reminds me of the necronomicon from Ash vs. Evil, it somehow feels as it's alive when I look at it (especially on the pictures that were taken outside). I think the wood is a bit to animated for my eyes, so they play tricks on me. Well, at least I hope

One question: are you happy with your shaper?