Lamello Zeta P2
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alkaline
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Knight Woodworks
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Are the Divarios removable? In other words could they be used for knock down casework?
John
John
Anyone have experience with the Lamello Invis Mx2-System?
I could see running dry fit Dominos between the Lamello fittings to help with alignment.
Interesting, especially, for a design that needs to break down and be shipped but hopefully more reliable than Ikea type designs.
Thanks
I could see running dry fit Dominos between the Lamello fittings to help with alignment.
Interesting, especially, for a design that needs to break down and be shipped but hopefully more reliable than Ikea type designs.
Thanks
Holmz
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No [member=32478]mcooley[/member] but I have been eyeing it.
For sheet goods the Zeta-p2 is ideal and I have enough to do with them.
There is only the 6-mm wrench hole with the ClampX and they sell covers by the 100 or 50 pack.
For thicker wood, like maybe table legs then the Invis can make sense.
Table legs are probably not the best example as they require a super strong joint, and the fixings are under the table anyhow. I am not sure what I would use them for... But I keep chin(s) scratching.
Based upon on nice the Zeta is, I have to believe that the Invis must also be "swiss precision".
For sheet goods the Zeta-p2 is ideal and I have enough to do with them.
There is only the 6-mm wrench hole with the ClampX and they sell covers by the 100 or 50 pack.
For thicker wood, like maybe table legs then the Invis can make sense.
Table legs are probably not the best example as they require a super strong joint, and the fixings are under the table anyhow. I am not sure what I would use them for... But I keep chin(s) scratching.
Based upon on nice the Zeta is, I have to believe that the Invis must also be "swiss precision".
Kev
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I've been looking at Invis for a while ... I haven't come up with a justification ... YET. I'm a little curious about using it for fitting fins to a timber surfboard (projects still an eon away). To me, nothing looks worse on the underside of a beautiful timber board than generic plastic fin boxes!!
Systems like these are intriguing. Thanks for the info. I wonder if anyone has invented a "dry glue" system? A thin glue strip that would bond under pressure just like traditional wood glue, except, no squeeze out and less movement during clamping.
I know 3M and others make UHB/VHB double-stick that they actually use on steel and for mounting glass in buildings. I've seen demos online where the adhesive bonds metal and seems to be permanent.
m
I know 3M and others make UHB/VHB double-stick that they actually use on steel and for mounting glass in buildings. I've seen demos online where the adhesive bonds metal and seems to be permanent.
m
Holmz
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[member=32478]mcooley[/member] - The Tenzo jobs are like a zip tie, or mechanical diode. You bang them together and the ratchet shut.
So the glue gets put on and they Tenzos hold it together until the glue sets.
I will probably get some, but I like the ClampX as if I bone something up, then I can take it apart.
Plus I can flat pack things for the kiddies, who are past kiddie stage.
So the glue gets put on and they Tenzos hold it together until the glue sets.
I will probably get some, but I like the ClampX as if I bone something up, then I can take it apart.
Plus I can flat pack things for the kiddies, who are past kiddie stage.
Kev
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mcooley said:
I'm curious about the glue they use for glass on skyscrapers every time I walk underneath them [scared] I was 30 seconds from walking under a spot a little while ago when a window cleaning crew plummeted to the ground .. I look up a lot now! (no, it wasn't a glue failure problem)
I tend to think wood is too porous for these hi-tech bonds and doesn't have appropriate material structure. Love to see it though!
It's funny if you read some of 3M literature they list wood as an acceptable material. They do say it needs to be sealed. Which basically means you would put a sealer over the surface to be bonded, strange. I'd like to experiment with them some day. I know some of the "foam types" are quite thick, however, they do have thinner ones as well. I was imaging something like what they put on the back of PSA edge banding. If they have that product you would think they would have something of similar thickness for doing permanent structural wood bonds etc.
Would love to hear from a materials science engineer about all of this! Anyhow, did the cleaning crew survive?
m
Would love to hear from a materials science engineer about all of this! Anyhow, did the cleaning crew survive?
m
Holmz
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Since the Zeta is working, it was time for a Liechtenstein version of a Plug-it (Neutrik TrueOne) to go onto it to make it connect to the CT26 without having to change cords.
And also the euro cord on the DEROS...
http://www.neutrik.com/en/industrial/powercon/nac3mx-w
I also put on the sleeving onto the 2 14' cords from the CT26 (or wall) to the tool.
The ~75' (20+M) one I left yellow.
And also the euro cord on the DEROS...
http://www.neutrik.com/en/industrial/powercon/nac3mx-w
I also put on the sleeving onto the 2 14' cords from the CT26 (or wall) to the tool.
The ~75' (20+M) one I left yellow.
GhostFist
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I can put up some numbers according to my manual as far as strength for each connector goes. One thing to note is the mechanical connection of the t-slot cut by the zeta. No other joining machine other than the Hoffman butterfly cutter does anything like that. Don't really like the idea of the Hoffman though I've never put one to use.
