Lapping Plate

[ear3]

I'm wondering what folks do for lapping plates for their stones.  I use the Dia-Sharp up through extra fine, but for the final honing I switch over to the Shapton glass stones, which do require regular lapping.  I currently do it with a coarse Duo-sharp stone that I no longer use for regular sharpening -- the interstitial space on the surface aids in moving the stone back and forth by not allowing the surface to get too clogged with the material being removed.  It has worked fine up until now, but since the Duo-sharp is the same size as the Shapton, I sometimes wonder whether I'm always lapping it perfectly flat across the entire surface, which can be an issue when doing wider blades.

The Shapton Lapping Plate is almost offensively expensive.  I'm sure it works, but it's not clear to me why it is better than other, cheaper options.  There's also the DMT Lapping Plate, but I'm concerned that the even surface would clog up when lapping the ceramic of the Shapton stones. 

I previously tried the cheap Norton lapping stone, but it cracked on me after only a few uses.

Any other options?

 

[miclee15]

I use the Shapton Glass for my tools and knives.  I use the DMT plate and when I go to flatten, I do all the stones from finest to course prior to sharpening.  This is done by a sink and I just rinse along the way.  Afterwards, I just towel dry and let it sit vertical and haven't had a rust problem. Clogging has never been a problem.

 

[ear3]

[member=40612]miclee15[/member] Thanks -- good to know that the DMT works well specifically on the Shapton.  Question, I see that there is a 120 and a 95 micron version of the DMT lapping plate, and I've seen comments that the slightly less aggressive 95 micron leaves a better surface when flattening sharpening stones.  Which version of the lapping plate do you have?

 

[GoingMyWay]

I follow Rob Cosman's advice and use the 300 grit side of the Trend Diamond Stone to flatten the 16,000 grit Shapton Waterstone:

 

[miclee15]

Which version of the lapping plate do you have?

I purchased and used the 95, and use pencil grid lines on the stone to ensure i stop right when all the lines are removed.  The stones are expensive and i don't want to remove anymore then I have to. hahah

 

[Birdhunter]

DiaFlat lapping plate from Lie Nielsen. I also put a pencil mark grid on the waterstones and lap until the marks are gone. I usually turn the waterstones 180 degrees midway through the flattening process. I rinse the lapping plate after each waterstone is finished.

 

[bertv]

When you buy the Veritas 'Stone Pond' (correct me if I have the name wrong), a lapping system is included, consisting of a glass plate, a sheet of plastic and some Lapping Grit. Maybe check out this way of lapping?

 

[TwelvebyTwenty]

I think the glass lapping plate and self adhesive lapping abrasives are "where it's at" these days - no time required maintaining a whetstone's flatness - less time sharpening more time woodworking.

 

[ear3]

Thanks for the replies.  Gonna go with the 95 micron DMT Dia-Flat Lapping plate.  Serendipitously, the cheapest price I've found is actually locally at Tools for Working Wood, so I get to support local brick and mortar business as a bonus.  Probably see you tomorrow [member=66494]sally[/member]

 

[grbmds]

Just a little input . . .

Unless you are going to use the Die-Flat additionally for flattening the back of plane blades or chisels, I believe the coarser version works a little better for just flattening your sharpening stones. I use it to flatten my Shapton Glass Stones and it works well; the coarser version flattening faster than finer Dia-Flat. The will be no difference in the surface of the the Glass Stones with either. The coarser flattening plate will just be faster.

If you plan to use the Die-Flat for also flattening the back of blades, be aware that, over time, the plate's capability to cut the Glass Stones will decrease at least slightly from wear. There will likely be almost no wear if you use if just for flattening your stones.

 

[ear3]

[member=19734]grbmds[/member] Oh well, I picked up the 95 micron version earlier today.  I imagine it will be fine though judging from the comments here and from what I've read elsewhere.  I'm generally working with new chisels and planes, rather than rehabbing old ones, so whatever flattening I need to do on the backs is usually minimal.  The lapping plate will thus be almost exclusively for flattening stones, unless of course I someday drop one of my block planes on the shop floor.

Just a little input . . .

Unless you are going to use the Die-Flat additionally for flattening the back of plane blades or chisels, I believe the coarser version works a little better for just flattening your sharpening stones. I use it to flatten my Shapton Glass Stones and it works well; the coarser version flattening faster than finer Dia-Flat. The will be no difference in the surface of the the Glass Stones with either. The coarser flattening plate will just be faster.

If you plan to use the Die-Flat for also flattening the back of blades, be aware that, over time, the plate's capability to cut the Glass Stones will decrease at least slightly from wear. There will likely be almost no wear if you use if just for flattening your stones.