Large hanging shelving unit using Domino

[oberkorn]

Hi there...

About to embark on building this shelving unit. Render below
It's 2395mm wide, 608mm tall, and 210mm deep, with a full-length 100mm tall French cleat running along the back behind the back panel.

I am planning on using 18mm baltic birch for the outside frame and vertical dividers, and 12mm baltic birch for the shelves. Shelves will be on pins, and I will be using the LR-32 system to do the shelf pin holes in the vertical parts. I am planning on using dominoes in the sides to hold the top and bottom between the sides so that the force isn't in line with the dominoes, but for the vertical supports, I wonder if these are going to be an issue if they are running vertically.

Will glue be strong enough to hold it all together? My gut says it will, but I don't want anything sagging or getting out of whack over time. The distance between the vertical parts is 278mm. Would it be better to use the router and create dadoes for these, or is the Domino going to be the way to line it all up and keep it nice?

Thanks for your expertise... Mid-level beginner here, and want to make something really useful and durable!

 

[afish]

Not sure what you are using for a back but if you do a solid back with something strong like RB @ 1/4" or better she aint going to go anywhere.  Just tie the top/bottom pieces to the vertical pieces with good fastners.

 

[oberkorn]

Not sure what you are using for a back but if you do a solid back with something strong like RB @ 1/4" or better she aint going to go anywhere.  Just tie the top/bottom pieces to the vertical pieces with good fastners.

I was planning on slotting in a 6mm Baltic Birch plywood back panel, with the cleat behind that, but flush with the back of the unit. As for tying the top and bottom to the vertical pieces, that would be fine on top, but the bottom will be visible (it's being hung fairly high up on the wall) so I want to avoid seeing any fasteners at all. Maybe the cleat could be somewhat useful in weight distribution? Was planning on using dominoes to get it attached to the sides, but then screwing it in at the top in addition to the glue. Maybe I should also sink screws into the vertical pieces from the cleat?

 

[ChuckM]

Dominoes will be suitable. I'll choose them over other fasteners/dadoes. If need be, you can nail (brad) the vertical pieces to the back. I'd use 6mm dominoes for everything, or if you prefer, 5mm for the verticals.

You can do the verticals as shelf pieces -- see the manual for the procedures. This is a dream application for the Domino connectors if it's a knock-down project.

 

[oberkorn]

The shelves will all be adjustable. If there were no shelves, this would just be a top, bottom, sides, back, and all of the vertical partitions. They need to be adjustable up/down, and in some sections, removable for taller items.

 

[oberkorn]

I think I recognize those instructions from the supplemental manual. Love that document. So helpful.

 

[VirTERM]

I used Festool connectors for my unit. It’s very solid and safe. Due to its size I didn’t really have any other options.

 

[ChuckM]

The shelves will all be adjustable. If there were no shelves, this would just be a top, bottom, sides, back, and all of the vertical partitions. They need to be adjustable up/down, and in some sections, removable for taller items.

Just updated my reply before I saw your latest post.

 

[ChuckM]

I used Festool connectors for my unit. It’s very solid and safe. Due to its size I didn’t really have any other options.

Problem is the connectors can only be used on 3/4" (18mm) stock or thicker, and the OP's vertical stock is under that.

 

[oberkorn]

This also might be helpful for visualizing. The render doesn't really show the shelf pin holes very well, and it looks like it could be a solid cross-piece, which would surely be stronger.

[attachimg=1]

 

[ChuckM]

This also might be helpful for visualizing. The render doesn't really show the shelf pin holes very well, and it looks like it could be a solid cross-piece, which would surely be stronger.

[attachimg=1]

I wish I had graphic design skill like that!

Edit on the domino size: Since your verticals are 12mm only, whether you use 5mm or 6mm, you'll need to shim up the verticals before mortising them because the cutter's center point is 10mm from the baseplate.

 

[oberkorn]

I used Festool connectors for my unit. It’s very solid and safe. Due to its size I didn’t really have any other options.

Very Mondrian!
Somewhat like my drawers that I made here:

 

[oberkorn]

This also might be helpful for visualizing. The render doesn't really show the shelf pin holes very well, and it looks like it could be a solid cross-piece, which would surely be stronger.

[attachimg=1]

I wish I had graphic design skill like that!

LOL. I need it for 3D printing design... It just happens to really help for getting my head around construction for woodworking. Otherwise, I would be going in blind, and I don't have the confidence for that yet... Can't just "wing it." Baby steps!

 

[VirTERM]

Very Mondrian!
Somewhat like my drawers that I made here:
[/quote]
Close enough it’s actually Rietvield’s style

 

[oberkorn]

Very Mondrian!
Somewhat like my drawers that I made here:

Close enough it’s actually Rietvield’s style
[/quote]

LOL. I somehow didn't even notice the Rietvield chair in the photo. Oops!

 

[oberkorn]

Very Mondrian!
Somewhat like my drawers that I made here:

Close enough it’s actually Rietvield’s style
[/quote]

My color scheme is actually based on the Eames Desk that I have in the same room... Same colors on the side panels.

 

[oberkorn]

This also might be helpful for visualizing. The render doesn't really show the shelf pin holes very well, and it looks like it could be a solid cross-piece, which would surely be stronger.

[attachimg=1]

I wish I had graphic design skill like that!

Edit on the domino size: Since your verticals are 12mm only, whether you use 5mm or 6mm, you'll need to shim up the verticals before mortising them because the cutter's center point is 10mm from the baseplate.

The verticals will be 18mm. Just the adjustable shelves will be 12mm

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ChuckM]

In that case, the Domino process will be easy peacy.

 

[afish]

You could do a sliding dovetail where the vertical ties into the bottom just stop it short of the face a 1/2" or so.  This will lock the bottom to the verticals with no hardware and no chance of sagging.  Rabbit in the back so sides and bottom are tight to the wall.  If the wall is funky you can dado in the back and leave a small 1/4" -3/8 to scribe to the wall.  Not sure how your BB is but the stuff I get as face patches so not sure if thats the look you want but you might also consider some veneer on the outside then you can just glue and screw everything. 

 

[oberkorn]

You could do a sliding dovetail where the vertical ties into the bottom just stop it short of the face a 1/2" or so.  This will lock the bottom to the verticals with no hardware and no chance of sagging.  Rabbit in the back so sides and bottom are tight to the wall.  If the wall is funky you can dado in the back and leave a small 1/4" -3/8 to scribe to the wall.  Not sure how your BB is but the stuff I get as face patches so not sure if thats the look you want but you might also consider some veneer on the outside then you can just glue and screw everything.

Like these? I kinda thought about it... maybe I should do it...