Lightweight drawer box material/method?

[squall_line]

The OP says weight is a major consideration. Finished piece to be moved to somewhere that's not so accessible?

If im moving large furniture that is difficult to move the first thing I would do is pull out the drawers and those cam be moved one at a time. so, I would not be concerned about individual drawer weight but more so the carcass weight. 

I've moved a fair number of times, but I've helped plenty more people move.  You'd be surprised how many people look at me like I have two heads when I suggest removing the drawers before hauling a dresser in and out of a truck/building.  "Yes, even though they're empty."

 

[Packard]

Not only does removing the empty drawers reduce the weight, more importantly, it creates additional hand hold areas at much more convenient locations. I always remove drawers and strap closed any cabinet doors.

 

[afish]

I'm not entirely sure why we are concerned about the weight of drawers?

But I would add that once you get to the point of 30" wide drawers, it is very good practice to put the bottom grooves high enough to put a connecting strip of wood below the bottom itself. It doesn't have to be anything huge, a simple 2" or 3" wide piece that ties the front and back together. It strengthens the front and back both and supports the middle of the bottom, making it more like 2 smaller drawers. It keeps the bottom from sagging.

yes, and also prevents the back from bowing.  Thats another issue with light and or cheap drawers.  if the drawer box is to large and either the sides and or back can bow and the bottom will pop out of the dado.  Its a very common issue on poorly built drawers. you can have the corners locked together with all the dominos you want but thats not going to guarantee a problem free drawer.  once that bottom starts sagging and sides bow that bottom panel is going to pop out jamb the drawer. 

 

[Packard]

Re: Crazy’s suggestion above.

One of the first things I made, was a replacement drawer box from a kitchen cabinet.  I was working from a used book that was a reprint of the original written in the 1950s.

I had nothing to reference against and no experience at all.  I just got my first table saw.

The thing that stands out after all this time (30+ years) was that the book suggested a cross brace on all deep drawers. 

The instructions said to make the drawer bottom groove 1/2” from the bottom.

I was to take a piece of 1/2” x 1-1/2” hardwood (I probably used poplar), and cut a single dovetail on each end at the widest point it should be 1-1/2” and (probably) to 1” at the shoulder. 

I should then place the cross brace on the bottom and trace the openings on both sides for the dovetail.  Those single dovetails are extremely easy to cut. 

I then set the cross brace across the bottom of the drawer and glued the dovetails in place and added a small screw instead of a clamp (as suggested in the book).

It worked perfectly.  The main drawback was that no one ever saw the fruits of my craftsmanship. 

So of the advice in that book, I now see was of suspect safety.  One suggested mounting two rip blades with a spacer between them, which would allow you to rip two strips of wood with each feed.

Nowadays I would fear kickback.

But the cross brace worked fine.

Midway from front to back on the bottom I was to cut an opening to accept a single wide dove tail. 

 

[Nick86]

Chuck and cheese re tearout fix with tape: yes, an excellent and should-have-been-obvious-to-me tip on the tape. Will likely try it next time around. Also, cheese, I like those under bed drawers a lot.

afish re tearout fix via CA glue: CA glue is a really interesting idea. Wondering if a dollop of hot glue to plunge into, then pop it off would work? Regardless, that seems more onerous than tape or a sacrificial block, but still like the concept.

Packard re Blum Tandembox: Having never lifted such a drawer on my own, I honestly had no idea how much they weigh. I can't find a weight on the Blum brochure either. I have to say I don't love the half height sides (something I was already considering with normal materials) and look. But likely will look into more just to see.

Svar re Premcore: I have inquired about similar near me with little luck. I have not inquired by that name, and will try.

Packard re Air Streams and foam/alu panels: you have touched on (eventually) the underlying motive—these are destined to be in a tenement on wheels (RV). The aluminum panels are indeed NASA worthy, but possibly beyond my humble abilities to source and work in a way that looks presentable. Still like the concept, as that type of off the wall things is indeed what I asked you all for.

Tsmi: I will say that my (limited) experience with the 9mm boxes really surprised me with their rigidity if tightly constructed. After the project, it made me think I overbuild much.

Packard and Chuck re triangular braces: I think this is my favorite idea of the lot. It might have a funny look on the inside of a drawer, but the strength, repeatability, and ease of assembly if I go really thin on the ply seems unbeatable. I may try a mockup of this.

Crazy re underside support: Although 30” wide, it is still only 15” deep. My thought is it’s more about the shortest distance getting too great for the ply. Although at 15”, 6mm is going to sag, and your fix is both quick to do and not (that) heavy. Will likely try a version of this (see below). I'm wondering if poplar can be improved upon for optimal rigidity vs. weight for a 1/2" strip. Likely only on the margins I would imagine.

Packard re single dovetail for underside support: wondering why the toil for a dovetail for such an attachment, other than several decades of feeling good (which, on net, was probably a serious good return on that time investment). Would my life be better or worse if I used mechanical fasteners or glued it solid?

ALL: Thanks for the inspired and entertaining responses. A fun first round wondering around here in the FOG. I hesitate to even raise it, but bonus points to anyone with drawer slide divine inspiration while I go do some mockups to test the above.

 

[Svar]

Svar re Premcore: I have inquired about similar near me with little luck. I have not inquired by that name, and will try.

If you are in the US try Woodworker's Source (not affiliated). They will ship.https://www.woodworkerssource.com/p...m-premcore-plus-white-birch-plywood-pack.html

 

[ChuckM]

Regarding drawers, most professional movers here ask their customers to keep their dresser or desk drawers intact, including their contents -- for obvious reasons. I have only moved 5 times in my life, and every time, except the one time I did the moving myself, no drawers were removed for the transit.

 

[Packard]

Yes, but they use lifting straps. If I were planning on making my own move, I would look online to New Haven Moving Equipment (they were a customer of mine before I retired.  I dealt with Los Angeles, California and New Haven, Connecticut branches—but they have outlets all over the USA.)

With the lift straps and their giant rubber bands to keep things closed, you can move heavy items quite reasonably.
https://www.newhaven-usa.com/category/carrystrp/carry-and-lifting-systems

 

[afish]

Regarding drawers, most professional movers here ask their customers to keep their dresser or desk drawers intact, including their contents -- for obvious reasons. I have only moved 5 times in my life, and every time, except the one time I did the moving myself, no drawers were removed for the transit.

professional movers are totally different then trying to move a heavy or awkward pieces by yourself or limited help. The OP wasnt real clear with the reason but "if" the reason is indeed to make moving easier then it is much better to build solid ,heavier, robust drawers that can and will stand the test of time and simply remove them in order to move and reinstall. Not saying drawers "always" need to be removed but if it comes down to building something of quality that will last opposed to questionable practices I will choose to simply remove the drawers 100 times out of 100.

 

[ChuckM]

Why are professional movers totally different? It's situational. If I have an object full of drawers and movinh it around is within my physical ability, I move it with everything intact. Nothing is 100%  every time for me. I judge, and make the call that suits the case in question (no pun intended).

 

[afish]

I clearly said drawers dont need to be removed and yes its all based on personal situation. Professional movers also generally means a crew. They are used to moving heavy objects and may or may not have more tools ie, straps, carts etc. I have no idea who the OP is or his physical capabilities, age, strength etc. Or the OP's obstacle situation such as if stairs or multiple flights of stairs, tight turns, narrow passages etc.

My singular point was and remains to be if you are building something full of drawers and you are worried about moving it do to weight the simplest method to lighten the load is to remove the drawers completely instead of building sub par drawers just to make the unit lighter to move as a complete unit. Seems like common sense to me along with the fact there is no right or wrong way for everyone or every situation and never said or implied drawers should always be removed.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Yeah, purely situational for sure. Some of it would have to do with what is in those drawers.
Simple textiles, clothing and the like, are not a big deal, but people do often overload drawers.
Tipping cabinets back with 2-wheeled dollies might be an issue, depending on contents too.

We deliver or ship dozens of cabinets every day. None are disassembled, but they are of course all empty. "How" depends on distance, and who is handling them. It's very different from our in-house delivery guys to a palletized freight shipment.
I have a couple of wide drawers in my cabinets, one is 36" and the other is over 40" and 20' deep. I keep hardware and larger hand tools in them. They get quite heavy, so the bottom brace is a must.