Little test - CNC Knee Mill/Router vs kaizen foam

Ok, little update.  I got the foam cutting end mil this week.  It has the profile I expected.  It had more end clearance on the tip.

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It has a much steeper radial rake angle and a longer relief on the radial cutting edge.

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I also learned something while reading through the specs.  My gut is to take a shallower cut because I can't get to the recommended RPM but then It occurred to me that I'm going the wrong way.  I need to take as big a bite as my material holding strength allows.

Much to my disappointment, not all of the foam samples cut to the same quality.  On all samples, the two slots to the right were made with the new 3/8-inch foam cutting end mill.

6lb closed cell -

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4lb fire resistant -

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4lb value line -

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The value line cuts well enough for me to think that I could actually shape foam well enough for inserts.  I am curious as to how some other denser types of foam will cut with this new end mill.
 
Love the work you are doing here [member=27782]Scorpion[/member], really looking forward to seeing some finished inserts. Making me consider a small CNC just for this purpose!!!
[member=11196]Peter Parfitt[/member] have you ever tried something like this with your X Carve?
 
If weight is not an issue, I've been experimenting with MDF as a material for this. See picture. In this case I'd deal it before putting in the drawer.

Hmmm, give me sec to find the picture

 
Jak147 said:
Love the work you are doing here [member=27782]Scorpion[/member], really looking forward to seeing some finished inserts. Making me consider a small CNC just for this purpose!!!
[member=11196]Peter Parfitt[/member] have you ever tried something like this with your X Carve?

[member=26917]Jak147[/member] No, for just a couple of tools I would use a craft knife and if I wanted to do a production run I might investigate a hot knife/wire or laser. It does look very effective though.

Peter
 
I used to machine very soft rubber in the job shop i worked at. We would put the blanks in a cooler with dry ice for an hour or so and them turn them.  You would have toe get that foam really cold before you saw any advantage.

mwildt said:
Interesting project. Wonder how frozen foam would behave when cut.
 
fritter63 said:
If weight is not an issue, I've been experimenting with MDF as a material for this. See picture. In this case I'd deal it before putting in the drawer.

Hmmm, give me sec to find the picture

Those are sweet.  I like how clean you got the profile copied.

An old-timer machinist once cautioned me agains storing tooling in wood organizers that aren't sealed.  The wood can retain the moisture and allow your tools to rust...or something like that.  Woodpecker does ship all of their rules in MDF sheet so maybe that was just something an old timer says and it wasn't true. 
 
Scorpion said:
fritter63 said:
If weight is not an issue, I've been experimenting with MDF as a material for this. See picture. In this case I'd deal it before putting in the drawer.

Hmmm, give me sec to find the picture

Those are sweet.  I like how clean you got the profile copied.

An old-timer machinist once cautioned me agains storing tooling in wood organizers that aren't sealed.  The wood can retain the moisture and allow your tools to rust...or something like that.  Woodpecker does ship all of their rules in MDF sheet so maybe that was just something an old timer says and it wasn't true.

Or... Most of the stuff from Woodpecker is Aluminum.

I could see it holding a bit of moisture, but not really MDF. I suspect it would look a bit like a kindergartner who is allergic to peanuts after eating a PB&J.

They do look nice though!

Cheers. Bryan.
 
bkharman said:
Or... Most of the stuff from Woodpecker is Aluminum.

I could see it holding a bit of moisture, but not really MDF. I suspect it would look a bit like a kindergartner who is allergic to peanuts after eating a PB&J.

They do look nice though!

Cheers. Bryan.

Yeah, brain fart...Aluminum will oxidize (rust/corrode) over time as well but Woodpecker anodizes it which will prevent it.
 
Scorpion said:
An old-timer machinist once cautioned me agains storing tooling in wood organizers that aren't sealed.  The wood can retain the moisture and allow your tools to rust...or something like that. 

That's interesting, because the favorite tool chest among machinists/tool makers for the last 100 years has always been a wooden Gerstner.
http://gerstnerusa.com

However, in the drawers where they stored their precision tools, micrometers, calipers, etc, there would always be a desiccant pack or two.
http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=53828&cat=1,43326
http://www.uline.com/Grp_21/Desiccants
 
Cheese said:
Scorpion said:
An old-timer machinist once cautioned me agains storing tooling in wood organizers that aren't sealed.  The wood can retain the moisture and allow your tools to rust...or something like that. 

That's interesting, because the favorite tool chest among machinists/tool makers for the last 100 years has always been a wooden Gerstner.
http://gerstnerusa.com

However, in the drawers where they stored their precision tools, micrometers, calipers, etc, there would always be a desiccant pack or two.
http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=53828&cat=1,43326
http://www.uline.com/Grp_21/Desiccants

Yeah, I've seen many of them in the various machine shops I've been in over the years...they're sealed though.  Lacquer or some other type is clear coat.

I suspect he had something happen to him at one time that made him overly cautious.  I don't even remember the context of the conversation when it was brought up.  I've only used HDPE sheets for my tooling organization so I've never really thought much about it until recently.
 
My father's machine shop hand tools were kept in a wooden bench top chest which was so soaked in machine oil that nothing could damage the tools inside. When we were sorting out all of Dad's stuff we found his father's steel scribe (with initials) inside and it was as bright as the day it was made.

Peter
 
The latest Woodpecker video update on the one time tool, Odd Job, shows the foam inserts being laser cut. I do not know how thick a piece of foam one can cut with such a laser.

 
jimbo51 said:
I do not know how thick a piece of foam one can cut with such a laser.

Here's a photo for an insert from their set-up blocks set. The thickness of the foam is about .900".

The other photo is of the laser marking on the same insert...pretty cool.  [big grin]

View attachment 1

View attachment 2
 

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Cheese said:
jimbo51 said:
I do not know how thick a piece of foam one can cut with such a laser.

Here's a photo for an insert from their set-up blocks set. The thickness of the foam is about .900".

The other photo is of the laser marking on the same insert...pretty cool.  [big grin]

View attachment 1

View attachment 2

Excellent profile view.  Looks to be similar consistency as the 4lb value line I have a sample of.  Cool.
 
I have been watching this thread to see what you guys come up with as the best foam to use for inserts. I do not own a cnc so my inserts are made the old fashion way, an mdf template is made then I use my router table to cut the kaizen foam. To cut the foam I have been using a basic two flute trim bit, and I get descent results. I am not super excited about the kaizen foam itself so I have been looking for other options.
I found what looks like a good option on foambymail.com. It is the Cross-Linked Polyethylene foam. They do not have any sample packs, but when i inquired they agreed to send me a 2" x 2" piece of the 1/4". The cells are very tight and it seems like it will work well, for me at least.

The right edge is the edge that I cut on the router.
[attachimg=1]

The bottom edge was cut by the router, it not as clean as the cuts on the other three sides, but still pretty good.
[attachimg=2]

I think I will order some of the thicker foam and see if it looks like a viable option.

Jessse
 

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  Yes, I have been using that blade for cutting all kinds of foam for over a year now. I use it by hand. It works great.

- Rich
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Scorpion said:
mike_aa said:
Has anyone tried one of these jigsaw blades for cutting foam?

I have not however I've noticed them on the display in the store.  Interesting, might work well for a through-cut application.
 
Richard A. said:
  Yes, I have been using that blade for cutting all kinds of foam for over a year now. I use it by hand. It works great.

- Rich
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When you say by hand, do you mean you do not use the blade within a jigsaw?  You hold the blade in your hand and cut foam with it like a handleless kitchen knife?
 
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