Locking the fence height on the Domino

BilWil

Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2007
Messages
5
Has anyone come up with a long term fix for the fence having the tendency to move during the cutting process.  I took the fence off, adjusted the lever handle so it will be tighter and then a few weeks later it happened again.  I used the same fix, but I've taken all the adjustment out of the screw for the handle and if (more likely when) it happens again I'm not sure what I will do.  Sawing off and filling the cuts that were in the wrong place is not fun, nor is it quick.

Help, anyone.
 
Hmmm, my fence slipped last Saturday.  Now I admit, I haven't been tightening the bolt as hard as I normally would because I read something here about several users snapping or stripping the bolt when tightening it.  What's the deal--how hard can the fence-height-fixing bolt be tightened without damaging it?

Regards,

John
 
OK, before anyone here starts laughing, just hear me out on this. If at least once, like me, you've cut a tenon that was not exactly parallel with face of the wood, perhaps it was because the fence was actually cocked a little and not exactly parallel to the bit oscillation. The fence rides along two half-dovetail rails, and is supposed to square up when the tightening lever squeezes against one rail, but suppose, just suppose, you manage to unintentionally wrack the fence so it's cocked, high-centered on the track, then the lever is tightened and the fence doesn't get a chance to completely square up first? Then, during the course of cutting tenons, the fence gets jostled enough to finally seat where it should have been, and suddenly it's loose. Try this: Set your Domino so the business end is facing away from you. Now with the fence raised, slide the thickness guide to, say 40mm and slide the fence down on top of it with your left thumb. Now, flip the fence-tightening lever all the way counter clockwise, as loose as it will go and press down on the right side of the fence which is unsupported and free-floating. Feel the deflection? Your fence is now not exactly parallel to the bit orbit. If you tighten the lever while the fence is kept cocked like this, it can sometimes stay that way rather than self-center in the tracks like it would if there was no downward pressure on on the right side. If you have calipers, measure both edges of the fence to the base. Equal? If not, once the fence finally pops into place during use, it could possibly produce a loose fence condition that may in SOME (but not all) instances be perceived as a stripped or broken part. Just a theory, but I've made it happen, and if you cannot actually find a broken part, it might be time to take stock in what I'm saying and start loosening the lever only enough to slide the fence easily, avoid loosening it excessively as this introduces the slack in the tracks that can cause this situation. Next, only push down on the sliding thickness adjuster side (left thumb), not the lever side that is unsupported and free-floating. This will also help avoid cocking the fence. And last, instead of just pushing down on the end of the lever with your thumb, try backing it up with your forefinger underneath; more of a knob turning motion, with your thumb on top the forefinger on the bottom, and turn, not just press down. In any case something to try before sending your Domino in for repair.

Gary

 
In the course of making some "Imperial" thickness gauges, I've made and been able to repeat this out-of-square fence situation that I've mentioned. It happens when I press down on the fence on the unsupported side opposite the thickness gauge side. But it can happen the other way around too. Here's my "Imperial" magnetic thickness gauge prototype. I normally press down on the thickness gauge side of the fence (using my left thumb), so when the "Imperial" was on the opposite side as shown in this photo, the the fence was once again cocked.

Using a small threaded coupling set into the wood, the center is enlarged with a #8 bit held squarely in the drill press, and two 3/8" magnets inletted underneath. Be sure to drill for the magnets prior to setting the coupling or you'll damage a good Forster bit. Now sand, joint the top edge so that the center of the hole is exactly 3/8" from the top edge. Now when you slide the fence down on top of it, you'll be centered on a piece of 3/4" stock. The Maple body is cut so that it's 1" off the center of the cutter, and centers on 2" face frames or cabinet stiles & rails. A nylon screw goes into the inserted nylon 1/4-20 nut to center on even narrower stock.

Gary Nichols
 
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