Loctite Threadlocker, antiseaze, sticks plus.

[Cheese]

So here's some nice stuff that's needed from time to time. It's not needed every day, but when you need it you just need it. It's Loctite in a more friendly form...lip stick style.

The traditional liquid Loctite usually required a primer that also needed to be applied, however, this glue-in-a-tube variation is a stand alone item. Just clean the threads, advance the lipstick & apply and let cure.

The copper anti-seize is also really nice for those times when you can't be bothered with the cumbersomeness of applying Never-Seez with a brush.

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[semenza]

So here's some nice stuff that's needed from time to time. It's not needed every day, but when you need it you just need it. It's Loctite in a more friendly form...lip stick style.

The traditional liquid Loctite usually required a primer that also needed to be applied, however, this glue-in-a-tube variation is a stand alone item. Just clean the threads, advance the lipstick & apply and let cure.

The copper anti-seize is also really nice for those times when you can't be bothered with the cumbersomeness of applying Never-Seez with a brush.

I bet that has a better shelf life than an opened tube of Loctite as well?

Seth

 

[Cheese]

I bet that has a better shelf life than an opened tube of Loctite as well?

Well we're both hoping for the same thing here... [smile]...the tubes gave me a used by date of 3 years while the liquid I've been using for 20 years still works well...so go figure.

Convenience was my only concern because the primer then Loctite procedure was always fraught with concern and it was messy. Besides, I figured the technology must have progressed to a better space in the last 20 years.  [big grin]

 

[semenza]

I bet that has a better shelf life than an opened tube of Loctite as well?

Well we're both hoping for the same thing here... [smile]...the tubes gave me a used by date of 3 years while the liquid I've been using for 20 years still works well...so go figure.

Convenience was my only concern because the primer then Loctite procedure was always fraught with concern and it was messy. Besides, I figured the technology must have progressed to a better space in the last 20 years.  [big grin]

Speaking of primer .....................  I never knew threadlocker needed a primer.

Also , those sticks aren't exactly cheap! I am seeing prices of about $30 +

Seth

 

[Cheese]

Speaking of primer .....................  I never knew threadlocker needed a primer.

Also , those sticks aren't exactly cheap! I am seeing prices of about $30 +

Unfortunately Seth they never really mentioned primer back then, especially when it came to the blue stuff, the red stuff was tuff/strong enough to work at some level without the primer. The blue stuff not so much.

And you're right...this stuff isn't cheap, I think I paid $25 thru MSC. But when you need it...you need it.  [smile]

The copper anti-seize is terrific though, the Never-Seez nuclear grade paste I purchased some 30 years ago cost $40 at the time and i still have half of a 1# can left, it's messy though as the nickel in it transfers to everything and you cannot remove it from your hands without using acetone or Goof-Off.

 

[rvieceli]

For anyone wondering about threadlockers, here's a link to a 12 page treatise on them by Loctite. Page 10 of the booklet has a chart on everything Loctite threadlocker that is very helpful.
https://www.ellsworth.com/globalass...e/henkel-loctite-user-guide-threadlocking.pdf

242 is supposed to be primerless. The primer is 7649 and they make a primer stick too 7088

There is also a tape product for no mess applications .

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] thanks for the heads up.

Ron

 

[rmwarren]

I bet that has a better shelf life than an opened tube of Loctite as well?

Well we're both hoping for the same thing here... [smile]...the tubes gave me a used by date of 3 years while the liquid I've been using for 20 years still works well...so go figure.

Convenience was my only concern because the primer then Loctite procedure was always fraught with concern and it was messy. Besides, I figured the technology must have progressed to a better space in the last 20 years.  [big grin]

My first red tube is over 30 years old and still seems to work, as does a younger bottle. I'm sitting in Fazzios parking lot (mega industrial supplies) and now I've gotta ask someone here where they keep the lipstick... Thanks [member=44099]Cheese[/member]  [poke]

RMW

 

[semenza]

It might be the tube I had dry up wasn't stored properly.

Seth

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] thanks for the heads up.

Thanks Ron [member=3192]rvieceli[/member] for the link to the Loctite application guide. That chart clears things up a bit. I also found this graph very interesting.

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[Sparktrician]

Interesting!  I've been using Loctite 242 (blue, liquid) on some firearms with from mild to pretty stout recoil for over 30 years now, and it just keeps on working.  Any screws lost are due to my own fumble fingers, not the Loctite.  My kid gave me a stick of 248 which I've used sporadically with every bit as good results.  [smile]

 

[greg mann]

Loctite, red and blue, are anaerobic compounds. Meaning they cure in the absence of air, and this is why they last so long. If Seth’s dried up there must have been no air in the container. This is also why the bottles ship seeming like they are half empty as they need air in them to keep the product fresh. This is counter-intuitive to just about everything else we use in life. An old toolmaker clued me in when I was a young toolmaker. Now I’m the old guy.  [sad]

 

[Ron B]

I am retired from a truck manufacturer (Kenworth-Peterbilt-DAF) and we used a lot of Loctite.  I do not remember all the numbers, but know the red Loctite is basically permanent, the Blue will let you eventually break the bolt loose.  Now that I think about it, our bolts were 16 or 13 mm diameter grade 8 bolts-anything smaller or cheaper I would be careful.   

 

[Cheese]

Loctite, red and blue, are anaerobic compounds. Meaning they cure in the absence of air, and this is why they last so long. If Seth’s dried up there must have been no air in the container. This is also why the bottles ship seeming like they are half empty as they need air in them to keep the product fresh. 

Well thanks for that Greg...that explains a lot.  [smile]  A while back I had several open bottles of red 263 Loctite, I decided to pour the stuff into one container. When I went to use it it was all hard, now I know why.  [doh]

 

[semenza]

Am I right that it is basically a modified superglue?  If so I wonder if acetone or cyanoacrylate softener / remove would help loosen fasteners.

Seth

 

[Cheese]

Am I right that it is basically a modified superglue?  If so I wonder if acetone or cyanoacrylate softener / remove would help loosen fasteners.

To loosen the red fasteners, Loctite recommends that 250º C heat is to be applied directly to the item. Yow...that's kind of hot.

And here's the chemical compatibility chart affiliated with Loctite red. It's not looking too good for acetone.  [smile]

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Basically what I'm reading is that once this stuff sets up...it's a done deal. Which is really what you want anyways. The applying of heat does give you an off ramp though.

 

[Ron B]

a few decades ago the tapered spindle kept dropping out of my floor drill.  I finally grabbed a bottle of red loctite, gave it a good coat, and jamb the spindle back into the drill.  I have tried to take it out a few times, but just realize I was going to just tear up my morse tapered drift pins before I will ever knock that loose.  That is how I found out the red is permanent.  Anyway, never have to worry about the spindle falling out now. 

 

[Cheese]

I whole-heartedly agree with Seth's decision to break this thread off from the original thread because it probably contains some valuable information for the average joe.

Along those lines, I've been a big fan of Never-Seez, a nickel based anti-seize product, for the last 30-40 years. I've always used Never-Seez Nuclear Grade because it truly is the best of the best. The rated use temperature is 2600°F which works well for exhaust manifold bolts and disc brake alignment guide supports.

I've also used the stuff on lug nuts to achieve uniform torquing values and to prevent the lug nuts from rusting onto the wheel studs.

The down side is the nickel element in the stuff does transfer easily from finger-to-finger and from part-to-part. In other words...it transfers to everything you touch. And normal solvents don't remove the nickel content...that's a good thing for your lug nuts and a bad thing for your fingers.  [big grin]

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[rvieceli]

The high temp/high strength stuff requires 340C (650F) and for heat to free it says greater than the temps listed and disassembly while hot.

I can't find the reference now but I recall some talk about methylene chloride as a solvent but only for the blue.

Ron

 

[Cheese]

I can't find the reference now but I recall some talk about methylene chloride as a solvent but only for the blue.

Hey Ron...I did find a Loctite Solvent/Debonder that's available, Loctite SF 768. 
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/industrial-adhesives/loctite_sf_768.html

Of some other interest, these 3 screen shots are directly from the Loctite Data Sheets.

Loctite 242/243/248 Blue

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Loctite 263 Red

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Loctite 268 Red

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[Sparktrician]

Another good place to use anti-seize is on the DF 500 cutters, then twist them on only finger-tight.  They'll come right off with little effort when it comes time to change the cutter bits.  [smile]