Look for microfoaming solution

usatu said:
The coat is @ 3mils. When you say too heavy, how do I get 3 mils without heavy coat? Should I thin the material little more or turn the fluid down a little? What kind of sound should I hear  [smile]?

I will sand (should I do 220 then 320 or just 320 will be fine) and recoat tomorrow.

That wet film looks heavier than 0.003" (3 mils). Shoot as you normally do, test the wet film, take a photo of the test area with the comb visible.

Don't thin the material, if anything go a little more viscous (thicker).

Best guess, decrease fluid to the nozzle.

Can't describe in words what it should sound like.

320

Tom
 
This is what you should see when you test the wet film.

5 marks, the base mark on the far right, 4 notches to the left off the gauge base. This panels wet film is 4 mils (0.004").

Back to the sound---if you have ever welded, your ears tell you when you hit that sweet spot with the settings for the medium and material.

Tom
 

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I can't say enough to thank you for your inputs. I will restart tomorrow till I get this right  [smile]

About sanding, I found my surfacer probably sprayed too thick/ thin and orange peel showed. Can I get away by sanding with 320? The entire surface should look even and dull? Now I found dull and shinier spots are blended together. Don't want to overkill it but am afraid that I might not sand enough.
 
Surfacer is one of the easiest things to spray. You want it to go on evenly, each coat can be hand sanded very easily. Make it smooth to touch. The second coat will be pretty smooth on its own.

If you want a really nice pure white, Surfacer with KA+ clear over it.

Tom
 
I sanded the surfacer very smooth to touch. Why it still looks like orange peel from certain angles? What does it suppose to look like? Glass without shine? I will post pictures tomorrow for diagnosis.  This group is so friendly and helpful.
 
usatu said:
I sanded the surfacer very smooth to touch. Why it still looks like orange peel from certain angles? What does it suppose to look like? Glass without shine?

Should be flat.

Waterbourns need at least 12 hours to tighten up.

Tom
 
usatu said:
I just tried again with 8” distance and slightly less air time presuure. This time I got pin holes directly instead of bubbles. What will be the way to solvle this

I agree, you are spraying to much paint! Do not box coat Kem Aqua it flashes off too fast. Dial back the fluid delivery knob.

When you spray too little you will get a dry spray or a very sandy gritty surface after the paint has dried.
 
I'm confused which the norm for me but how did the OP spray too heavy if a wet film gauge was used, misread it somehow?
 
wptski said:
I'm confused which the norm for me but how did the OP spray too heavy if a wet film gauge was used, misread it somehow?

Believe it or not I had someone tell me they thought that the proper amount of wet film would fill the vertical space between the 3-4 mil notches. Look at your gauge, imagine trying to get a puddle that thick.

Looking at the posted photos, my guess is he's at 8+ mils. The pocks are at least 4 mils.

Tom

 
tjbnwi said:
Believe it or not I had someone tell me they thought that the proper amount of wet film would fill the vertical space between the 3-4 mil notches. Look at your gauge, imagine trying to get a puddle that thick.

Looking at the posted photos, my guess is he's at 8+ mils. The pocks are at least 4 mils.

Tom
I think the first time I used my Graco Truecoat Pro II handheld it was that thick!  [eek]  It was 1x6's supported to do both sides and started to paddle wheel fling the paint.  [big grin]
 
I am back with more questions.Today I tried sanding the surface flat without shines. Then set up my gun for 3 mils. Used to spray a glass ,a tile and the door. Still see some bubbles not a ton.

The sprayed surface on the door is not smooth at all . Any causes?

First few are tile and glass. Last is door.

Also how to fix if the sander cut to the bare wood on edges? I used orbital sander this time. Palm sander was too slow to sand.

Thank you for your help!

 

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usatu said:
The sprayed surface on the door is not smooth at all . Any causes?
It appears that dust from sanding is preventing the paint to flow properly and creating craters. Wash your panel with distilled water before you spray.
Based on the paint the craft paper, it looks like you are still spraying to much paint. Back off your fluid delivery until you have a very dry coat or minimum coverage and then turn it up until you get a nice oval shape that is solid in the middle. See the spray gun setup document here.

usatu said:
Also how to fix if the sander cut to the bare wood on edges? I used orbital sander this time. Palm sander was too slow to sand.
Use a hard pad on your orbital sander and go to the edge but stay away from running over the edge.
Tim

 
Tim and Tom, greatly appreciate your suggestions. I double/triple measured the mils and made sure KA+ is not over 3 mils and still got many pin holes. I will try wash the board tomorrow. How long I need let them dry? I found that the paint flow really well on glass but not on my doors. I still can see the orange peel from the side with dim light. It feels pretty smooth.

When I tested on the paper, I did get an oval shape and when I put the paper up, there are no runs. The papers on pictures are sprayed multiple times [smile] I will do it again tomorrow with pictures. Tonight I am going to read all the documentations.

Also I don't know why my bottom feed container cup leaks? I just changed the new gasket and plastic cover and problem still exists. One side of aircap has dried paint on it.

Just wondering how much will cost a professional to do a kitchen and an island with 50-60 doors.
Don't want to give up but really frustrated that we can't move in yet as I am so slow progressed [sad]
 
usatu said:
I double/triple measured the mils and made sure KA+ is not over 3 mils and still got many pin holes.
I think you have proven that at 3 mils, you  are getting pin holes. Spray to 2 mils and see what happens.

usatu said:
I will try wash the board tomorrow. How long I need let them dry?

Just use a damp cloth, you just want to get any fine dust off the surface. Alternatively, you can use compressed air and blow it off, I just don't like this as it blows dust all over.

usatu said:
When I tested on the paper, I did get an oval shape and when I put the paper up, there are no runs.
That is good. You are in the range.

usatu said:
Also I don't know why my bottom feed container cup leaks? I just changed the new gasket and plastic cover and problem still exists. One side of aircap has dried paint on it.

Clean it up so it seals properly, it may make a difference. JC changed some seals in his gun and it seemed to have removed the pin holes he was getting in his paint. This Soy-Based Brush & Spray Gun Cleaner works very well. I dilute it slightly.

usatu said:
Just wondering how much will cost a professional to do a kitchen and an island with 50-60 doors.

I will let Tom answer...seriously it depends on where you are in the country, on site painting- do you need the cases painted, timing etc. Get some quotes from your local cabinet painters.

usatu said:
Don't want to give up but really frustrated that we can't move in yet as I am so slow progressed [sad]
If your family needs to move in I would definitely get some quotes and then discuss it with your significant other. You could be at this for several weeks. Sometimes discussing options makes the decisions easy.

Tim
 
Which orbital sander.

Depending on temp and humidity it can be 24 hours before you'll know how it is tightening up. Not uncommon with waterbornes.

Tom
 
I used Dewalt orbital sander. Sanded this morning and sprayed this afternoon. The orange peel yesterday looks still bad today. It is like little round bumps. Just curious, the wet door should look flat and shining when held up to a light 30-45 degrees aside?If so, I must did sth wrong. It reflects things alright when light is not too close above in certain angle. But if hold it closer to light, it just looks like the pictures. Glass or tile did flow and level better. I thought I sanded the surface deep enough though. How to verify my sanding job is complete?

Thanks and cheers
 
usatu said:
Also I don't know why my bottom feed container cup leaks? I just changed the new gasket and plastic cover and problem still exists. One side of aircap has dried paint on it.
Isn't there a vent hole in the plastic piece to be positioned according to how your gun is being used?  Don't really know what kind of problem it'll cause if it's in the wrong position.
 
usatu said:
How to verify my sanding job is complete?
Wet it down with a damp cloth and use a single side or raking light to see the imperfections. Let dry and sand again if really bad. It doesn't have to be perfect as a good second and third coat will fill some minor undulations etc.
Tim
 
wptski said:
usatu said:
Also I don't know why my bottom feed container cup leaks? I just changed the new gasket and plastic cover and problem still exists. One side of aircap has dried paint on it.
Isn't there a vent hole in the plastic piece to be positioned according to how your gun is being used?  Don't really know what kind of problem it'll cause if it's in the wrong position.

If the vent hole in the air cap is at the 12 o'clock position rather than at 6 o'clock, it gets blocked up with paint if the cup is full when tilting the gun to spray. Blocking the air vent prevents the cup from being pressurized completely, reducing the flow of paint.
Tim
 
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