Look for microfoaming solution

I put the hole/tab close to air hose. In another words, when I tilt my cup, the paint won't enter the hole. Will do a thorough clean tomorrow and see.
 
There is no vent it the T-70 or T-75 cup. They are positive pressurized systems not atmospheric systems.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
There is no vent it the T-70 or T-75 cup. They are positive pressurized systems not atmospheric systems.

Tom
It isn't a vent to atmosphere but to allow the pressurized air from the lid to enter the side where the material is.  Plastic piece in image below.

[attachimg=1]
 

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Well after 12 hours of drying I woke up to a panel, 24"x24", that I sprayed with BM CC-518 escarpment gray, which many of you know that I have been having many problems spraying. I went from having a million pinholes and lumps to an absolute perfect panel with no flaws at all. A little orange peeling, but that's easy to fix. Also, as the pant cures longer it will tighten up some more.

Photos are pinhols to no pinholes. Same panel same paint.

I will try again this afternoon to see if I can get the same results 2 days in a row.

The coin is there so the camera can focus on a smooth surface.
Cheers,
JC
 

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wptski said:
tjbnwi said:
There is no vent it the T-70 or T-75 cup. They are positive pressurized systems not atmospheric systems.

Tom
It isn't a vent to atmosphere but to allow the pressurized air from the lid to enter the side where the material is.  Plastic piece in image below.

[attachimg=1]

Not a vent, just a passage in the baffle for the air to flow. Two completely different "things". I know what it is like dealing with vented guns, it was a god send and a curse when I got my first dripless.

Knowing me, I'd loose (get rid of) that baffle.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Not a vent, just a passage in the baffle for the air to flow. Two completely different "things". I know what it is like dealing with vented guns, it was a god send and a curse when I got my first dripless.

Knowing me, I'd loose (get rid of) that baffle.

Tom
Yeah, I used the wrong wording.  Your T-70 doesn't have or come with a baffle?  I don't have a T-70 but the Gxpc but got the accessory side mounted 1 qt. cup kit but I think it's the same as a T-70 cup.  The baffle "could" be left out just have to watch the extreme gun angles and/or material height in the cup.
 
wptski said:
tjbnwi said:
Not a vent, just a passage in the baffle for the air to flow. Two completely different "things". I know what it is like dealing with vented guns, it was a god send and a curse when I got my first dripless.

Knowing me, I'd loose (get rid of) that baffle.

Tom
Yeah, I used the wrong wording.  Your T-70 doesn't have or come with a baffle?  I don't have a T-70 but the Gxpc but got the accessory side mounted 1 qt. cup kit but I think it's the same as a T-70 cup.  The baffle "could" be left out just have to watch the extreme gun angles and/or material height in the cup.

I hunted down the cup last night so I could verify there was no vent. The baffle is in place, the cup has never had any fluid in it. Took it off and installed the PPS adapter before I use it the first time.

My X-g series guns do not have the baffle in the cup, I have a couple of original cups. These guns also have the PPS adapter on them.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
I hunted down the cup last night so I could verify there was no vent. The baffle is in place, the cup has never had any fluid in it. Took it off and installed the PPS adapter before I use it the first time.

My X-g series guns do not have the baffle in the cup, I have a couple of original cups. These guns also have the PPS adapter on them.

Tom
There is no hole in the plastic baffle??  The OP's T-70 baffle does.
 
wptski said:
tjbnwi said:
I hunted down the cup last night so I could verify there was no vent. The baffle is in place, the cup has never had any fluid in it. Took it off and installed the PPS adapter before I use it the first time.

My X-g series guns do not have the baffle in the cup, I have a couple of original cups. These guns also have the PPS adapter on them.

Tom
There is no hole in the plastic baffle??  The OP's T-70 baffle does.

Yes, there is a hole in the baffle. The hole in the baffle is not a vent, it is a pressure passage.

The vents in siphon spray guns are to atmosphere.

Tom
 
JC,really happy for you. Guess patience is key. My job does look better than just sprayed although still has some pin joles but not too crazy. How would you fix the orange peels I am so struggle with that. It looks like leather not glass. Thin more or make it thicker or open air valve wider?Should I buy 1.0
mm aircap set to get finer result. Thanks all for helping along the process.

 
tjbnwi said:
Yes, there is a hole in the baffle. The hole in the baffle is not a vent, it is a pressure passage.

The vents in siphon spray guns are to atmosphere.

Tom
Again I thought I used the wrong word or vent but maybe not.

Definition of vent is: an opening that allows air, gas, or liquid to pass out of or into a confined space.
synonyms: duct, flue, shaft, well, passage, airway; outlet, inlet, opening, aperture, hole, gap, orifice
"an air vent".

If you never remove that plastic baffle, it's very tight on the pickup tube so that's your confined space.  Buy it??
 
Can you please let me know this needs sand more down and reapply surfacer or I can apply KA+ on it and paint will flow and then I sand again?

How about last two?Can I get way with it?
Thanks so much
 

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It looks like you have a lot, small and large, of imperfections. If you are looking to get a flat finish you will need to make sure that all surfaces are free from defect and that the surfaces are sanded flat. It looks like you are painting old oak wood cabinets. If you don't want the grain pattern to show through the paint you will need to sand the oak down and apply some sort of grain filler to make the surface flat. Adding more paint won't flatten a surface. It will just magnify the defects.

Cheers,
JC
 
My doors are maple. I did a bad job of the priming and sanding. What should I do now?sand with 220 to flat?The water trick does make things show. if dried and look like this,am I ok?

Last one is sanded Ka+,left side is OK with flat and dull?
right side has a shining dots,is that Ok?
 

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usatu said:
Thanks all. Actually I put a dot on the knob so I can know how many turns I did:) Fully open takes 5-6 turns probably.

Should I adjust the fluid knob to reach 3 mils in one pass? Somehow if I set to shoot for 3 mils and get runs and drips for vertical surface. Maybe overspray gets on the surface? It is very hard to control. Will I be Ok to get between 2 and 3 mils and do an extra coat after flashing? I do see a hint of orange peel in certain angle.
Is the T-70 so much different than the Gxpc?  I asked Fiji how many turns to full open and they stated about three turns.

While cleaning one of my Gxpc's with a 1mm tip installed the other day.  If you pull the trigger back all the way, open the adjustment control the trigger moves back but can only move till it contacts the gun body.  Slowly adjusting, pulling the trigger, you can find the full open position.  I have a witness mark and full open is only 2 1/2 turns not 3.  Although the full closed position changes with tip size, a 1.8mm tip in my other Gxpc checked the same 2 1/2 turns.
 
There really similar Bill, try a 2 1/2 turn starting point. How are you making out with your 5 stage Fuji?
 
I don't know how other gun works. Only own this one. I am sure it is more than 3 turns.
 
Kem Aqua plus not reduced with a 1.0 or 1.3 tip set you should never need to go more than 3 turns out.
I also usually reduce the air 25% using the ball valve at the gun, as not to get tiger stripping.
Try this setup and play with the automizing air and your spray speed

Thanks
 
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