smorgasbord
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- Jan 7, 2022
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4nthony said:..
A cut made with a miter gauge will still cut at 90°, even if the blade is not parallel to the miter slot. As long as your material tracks straight, you'll just end up with a wider kerf.
Typically you'd adjust the gauge to the slot, not the blade, as it's the reference your gauge tracks in. Most adjust their blade to the slot, allowing for the blade to be used to square your gauge.
Just to button this up:
• Imagine you're using the miter gauge on a router table. To what are you aligning the miter gauge fence? A round bit.
• The problem with aligning the miter gauge fence to the blade is that it introduces any error you may have had when you previously aligned your miter slot to the blade. It compounds errors.
• I actually find it easier to hold a try-square's body against the fence and the blade against the bar and then just tighten down, they raising the blade to have enough sticking up to measure against. Of course, the 5-cut method to fine-tune is best.
BTW, I have seen a simpler 2-cut method proposed (sorry, don't have a link). Starting with a straight edge against the miter gauge fence, make a 90 degree cut on one side, then flip the board upside down (keeping same edge against the fence) and make the other 90 degree cut. Then you measure the length of the board between the two cuts you made, and that's double the error. Not as accurate as the 4/5 cut method, as it "only" doubles the error, not quadruples it, but still it's quicker and easier and uses less math.