Looking for some advice

[bpitch]

A friend of mine has asked me whether I will be able to build him a large bookcase very similar to this one in design but from real wood ( his choice is maple).
Smart Shelves

Since he wants its pretty long and tall (9 ft long and and 6 ft high) I am trying to think of how to make it in a way one can disassemble it easily ( or moderately.
Also, I do not have an LR32 and was looking to attach shelves in some other way (no pins, long dovetails??).

So my questions is : What type of joints (or else) one would recommend (especially to connect the free-hanging shelves on sides in way they will hold some books)?
Maybe someone was making very similar project and has some insight?

Thank you for any of your answers and any related input!
Jerry

 

[semenza]

The link doesn't seem to be working, is it this one http://www.smartfurniture.com/products/6ft-Wide-Classic-Bookshelf.html?att=186&cid=23  ?

I think you will need to change the design to allow for double uprights to be against each other for connecting.

If you do want to use shelf pins any number of drilling jigs are available. But I think the number of adjustable shelves may need to be limited due to the open back and free standing design for stability.  There is always the Domino for creative shelf attachment.

Seth

 

[bpitch]

The link doesn't seem to be working, is it this one http://www.smartfurniture.com/products/6ft-Wide-Classic-Bookshelf.html?att=186&cid=23  ?

I think you will need to change the design to allow for double uprights to be against each other for connecting.

If you do want to use shelf pins any number of drilling jigs are available. But I think the number of adjustable shelves may need to be limited due to the open back and free standing design for stability.  There is always the Domino for creative shelf attachment.

Seth

Seth,

Thank you, I have corrected the link.
Shelves on this design are not adjustable and my friend is fine with that ( he has a lot of books and sturdiness is his prime concern).
Just as you have mentioned, I was thinking about domino (since I have one already), but I can't think of a way to make it with dominoes and yet be able to disassemble it..

 

[semenza]

I would make the individual sections (three?) with Dominos and use some other hardware to connect the vertical sides to each other, but that will be a different look. To maintain the design shown maybe it doesn't need to be take down. At six feet tall  it will go through doorways standing up. So maybe the length really isn't that big an issue for moving?

Seth

 

[John H]

I think the best you can hope for is to make it in sections

The center section

The two end sections with the smaller shelfs

The larger shelves - perhaps use your domino to index them

A top and bottom 'plate' to tie it all together

 

[mouppe]

I made a bookcase a few months ago which is about 8' high and 12' long. I used fixed shelves in the centre to keep the partitions properly spaced, and screwed them into a couple of discrete skirting boards to keep the vertical partitions parallel. You can see them at the top and bottom of the bookcase. The fixed shelves are held in place with dominoes. The skirting boards also serve to attach the bookcase to the wall studs. The vertical pieces are dadoed into the top and bottom. All these techniques stop the bookcase from becoming a parallelogram. Theoretically I could disassemble the whole unit as nothing is glued, but I cannot imagine ever doing so as it is made of solid oak and weighs a ton.

If you look at the right side of the bookcase, you can see the shelves protruding from the columns. I did this by notching the columns to allow the shelves to pass through. It works OK, but it seriously weakens the column. Because of this, I decided only to notch it for the fixed shelves. I would caution against it, particularly if you cannot secure the column against a wall somehow.

I assembled the bookcase on the floor face down and lifted it into position. The shelf holes were all done with the LR32 system- I would strongly encourage you to get this kit. I just picked up the baseplate for $120 or so as I already had a holey rail and I have workarounds for the other pieces.

[attachimg=#]

 

[woodie]

Something like this might work for easy assembly/disassembly.  Although I'm not sure if the Lamello fasteners would be strong enough to keep an open back cabinet from racking?

Lamello

 

[bpitch]

I would make the individual sections (three?) with Dominos and use some other hardware to connect the vertical sides to each other, but that will be a different look. To maintain the design shown maybe it doesn't need to be take down. At six feet tall  it will go through doorways standing up. So maybe the length really isn't that big an issue for moving?

Seth

Yeah, that is the thing. He lives on 3rd floor and they only case to carry them are stairs...

I made a bookcase a few months ago which is about 8' high and 12' long. I used fixed shelves in the centre to keep the partitions properly spaced, and screwed them into a couple of discrete skirting boards to keep the vertical partitions parallel. You can see them at the top and bottom of the bookcase. The fixed shelves are held in place with dominoes. The skirting boards also serve to attach the bookcase to the wall studs. The vertical pieces are dadoed into the top and bottom. All these techniques stop the bookcase from becoming a parallelogram. Theoretically I could disassemble the whole unit as nothing is glued, but I cannot imagine ever doing so as it is made of solid oak and weighs a ton.

If you look at the right side of the bookcase, you can see the shelves protruding from the columns. I did this by notching the columns to allow the shelves to pass through. It works OK, but it seriously weakens the column. Because of this, I decided only to notch it for the fixed shelves. I would caution against it, particularly if you cannot secure the column against a wall somehow.

I assembled the bookcase on the floor face down and lifted it into position. The shelf holes were all done with the LR32 system- I would strongly encourage you to get this kit. I just picked up the baseplate for $120 or so as I already had a holey rail and I have workarounds for the other pieces.

This shelf is intended to be in the center of a room ( will perform as a room divider) so no skirting boards here, but as of dadoed top and bottom seems totally right to me).
The thing with LR32 that its not just a plate, since I made a mistake when purchasing a saw and my rail ain't Holy... was unaware one could switch to one and now 1 year has passed so no other resolution unless to get a new one, kinda same applies for Lamello As a hobbyist i can't justify purchase of this biscuit joiner since i have a Domino that i really enjoy when in use [unsure]

As an alternative to domino I was thinking to go maybe for a sliding dovetail. if needed it can be pulled apart and will contribute to the sturdiness of construction, but of course it will be much more labor intensive.
Another idea just came to my mind is to make a through dado in a shelf ( so if looking from above it will look as if letter E is turned 90 degrees)  with dadoes on vertical boards. This way the shelf will slide in the vertical boards and the and a free hanging part will get the sturdiness since all shelf will be one piece across section.

Will thankfully accept any thoughts on such executions [smile]

 

[oldie]

Worth a look ??

http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/slide-togetherapart-bookcase/

Richard

edit: whoops - sorry  [embarassed]  Should have read that thread before posting.  Just assumed (??) that stopped sliding dovetails used.

 

[tjbnwi]

Make sure you can stand up whatever you make once assembled on site. Measure the hypotenuse corner to corner.

Tom

 

[tiralie]

Another idea just came to my mind is to make a through dado in a shelf ( so if looking from above it will look as if letter E is turned 90 degrees)  with dadoes on vertical boards. This way the shelf will slide in the vertical boards and the and a free hanging part will get the sturdiness since all shelf will be one piece across section.

Do you mean like this?

[attachthumb=#]

You could but I think it will be better with thicker >1" components.

I noticed that the unit you referenced was 6' x 6', made with melamine covered MDF and could be re-configurable to 2, 3' wide units.
They probably used a fixture such as this connector

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with these fittings

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