Looking to buy a barrel jigsaw need help

Just as a source of information the Mafell that is often mentioned as being the top gun for a jigsaw is a $765 jigsaw here in the US.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
Just as a source of information the Mafell that is often mentioned as being the top gun for a jigsaw is a $765 jigsaw here in the US.

Peter

Peter are they paying you for these posts?
It always sets me off when I see 100s of posts says FT is costs more because it is better, and then any other tool which costs more is overpriced. So you get to receive my post...

While you are it... don't forget to mention how much extra mafell charges for the angle base.

unless one.  wants the bare tool how do we compare apples and oranges? We need to compare the costs of the tools with their accessories and Mafell does not sell the saw without them. So it is probably best to put up both costs.
(I suspect the Bosch also has the accessories included in the cost.)

And here we go:
Saw: ($680)https://sydneytools.com.au/festool-...=4&fep=12386&gclid=CJfRnana8tICFYIHvAoduDICOA

extras: ($359).https://sydneytools.com.au/festool-...=4&fep=15001&gclid=CNSP7eDZ8tICFYZjvAod1KoKKw

Festool Total is $1039 Au

Or I can get the Mafell paying no VAT for 509 Eu with the base + another 70Eu for shipping which is ~850 $Au
https://www.dictum.com/en/tools/pow...-cc-maximax-in-t-max-incl-tilting-plate-p1-sp

For me it was seemingly a "no brainer" to get the better tool for the less money than the tool that is not as good. But the Bosch would be my second pick. If one is not using the fat cunex blades then the saw is not at the cutting edge of performance.

There may be different ways to compare them, but the above covers how I did it. Feel free to pick the logic apart.
(Some known logical failure points/omission are warranty and electrical.)
 
Peter Halle said:
Just as a source of information the Mafell that is often mentioned as being the top gun for a jigsaw is a $765 jigsaw here in the US.

Peter

[eek]
 
Poindexter said:
tsiawdt said:
thank you all for the input  I am still doing research

It isn't that hard a decision.  Jigsaws are mostly the same.  Your decision steps are:

1)  Grip/handle... you made that decision already
2)  Corded/Cordless
3)  Dust collection... if important, go Festool
4)  Blade ejection yes/no... I recommend yes because blades can get quite hot
5)  If Festool, you'll have an extra adjustment when changing blade size.  Many people consider this a negative, but it isn't that bad of one.

Along with dust collection, some added benefits of going Festool are:

A)  If you have  Festool guide rail then you can use it with your Festool jigsaw
B)  Festool jigsaws have a simple-to-use circle jig
C)  You get a systainer... if that's a benefit to you

Like a lot of pro Carpenters and Woodworkers, I've used mostly the older Swiss made Bosch.

Barrel grip vs Top Handle?

Barrel grip has an on/off switch, adjustable speed control setting and a knob or hand grip on the top front.  Best for scrolling jobs,
hold the front, move the barrel to scroll.

Top handle has variable speed in the trigger.  Awesome for most work!  Start slow and finish slow.  This is one of my problems with the Carvex.  I want to love the tool but the top handle is very slender and doesn't feel right to me personally.  Bought the barrel grip Carvex and still on the fence.
 
I'm with Sam and others....wanting to like the Festool jigsaw but find both barrel and the D handle Bosch I have, to be my "go to"...I mostly use the barrel with the Collins coping foot and harder to get to areas and the top handle/var. speed trigger for everything else...I have a hell of a time with pushing/holding the button on the Carvex 420 D handle, just not comfortable and needs to be pushed farther in or something, I have a sm. round felt button on there to help. I do like having a light on the tool though.
 
I, like JimD, have an old barrel grip Bosch 1582.  I have that table attachment and used it last week to modify a light swtch cover to accept two rectangluar switchs.  I too use the Collins foot and over the last 36 years have used my saw to cut wood, plastics, steel (plainand S/S), tile, glass, and more aluminum than I like to remember.  I have the dust extraction foot and it works about as good as can be realistically expected. I bought the corded Carvex and I feel it works as well as my ancient Bosch.  I also have the cordless Carvex that I bought after buying the HKC and keep both in my service van.  I've never expected my jigsaws to give as clean a cut as circular saws and dust extraction for any tool that throws dust forward will always be a compromise.  Every new tool has a learning curve...It's up to each user as to their expectatons and willingness to find that sweet spot where everything works.
 
rst said:
I, like JimD, have an old barrel grip Bosch 1582.  I have that table attachment and used it last week to modify a light swtch cover to accept two rectangluar switchs.  I too use the Collins foot and over the last 36 years have used my saw to cut wood, plastics, steel (plainand S/S), tile, glass, and more aluminum than I like to remember.  I have the dust extraction foot and it works about as good as can be realistically expected. I bought the corded Carvex and I feel it works as well as my ancient Bosch.  I also have the cordless Carvex that I bought after buying the HKC and keep both in my service van.  I've never expected my jigsaws to give as clean a cut as circular saws and dust extraction for any tool that throws dust forward will always be a compromise.  Every new tool has a learning curve...It's up to each user as to their expectatons and willingness to find that sweet spot where everything works.

Can you elaborate on the Carvex and what model you prefer?  I have the barrel grip as most have recommended and will be spending more time with it coming up here soon.

Haven't given up on the tool but definetly has a steep learning curve to it.
 
I needed a cordless jig and went for the Makita brushless barrel grip. It is great. So great I sold my trion and just use it. I have had Bosch corded jig saws as well and always like them, great  saws. Money no object I'm pretty sure the Mafell is the one to get. I'd stay away from the carvex and go for the trion if you want Festool. 
 
I have always liked barrel grip jigsaws as I find it easier to follow patterns closer.  Many people find the D handle better suited but I have not owned a D handle since 1972.  There is a learning curve to getting the right blade tension with the Carvex but I have not found it to be bothersome.
 
I have a Carvex and I think it's good. I like the strobe for accurate cutting. Sure the base not tilting is an issue for some and I'm sure at some point I'll buy the tilting base. I like the auto power and I like the cut and particularly that I can cut 4" material and the cut is perfectly square.

Dust collection could be better and I do notice that when I'm doing something intricate but overall I'm happy with mine and think the advantages of it being part of the Festool system outweigh any disadvantages. Ie I can use it with my rails, plug it cords, extraction and it all comes in a systainer.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have a great affinity for Festool, but after reading a lot of FOG reviews I went with a Bosch JS 572. It's a great saw. Gotta say I agree with T Ernsberger. Try the Carvex for 30 days. If you don't like it return it and go with Bosch or spend a whole lot more for a Mafell.
 
I have a Trion,works good.
Forget about dust extraction though,and can't see any line with the slinger guard and plastic thingy on it. But it cuts good.
I have a D-handle but also need a barrel grip for a copping foot. Just leave it on the saw.I may look into the Bosch that everyone seems to like.

Or another Trion.
I want one box with both tools in it.
Charlie
PS. No Mafell for me,I don't use a jig saw enough to justify a $700 plus jig saw.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Holmz said:
Also the p1cc comes with all the accessories except for the bevel base.
When one adds the costs up then the p1cc is a lot closer.
At least in Australian prices the loaded carvex and p1cc were.

But the [member=3373]Dovetail65[/member] points in the Bosch are noteworthy.

I bought mine from Germany recently via the auction site and for 755 I picked up the P1cc, the short rail and the angled base.  Along with the stuff that normally comes with the saw.    I had to put a 4 dollar plug on it because it was wired for UK 110v but that wasn't anything. 

 
Cealan said:
I heard the hilti jigsaw is a copy of the mafell

Neither the former or current Hilti jigsaws are copies if the Current Mafell P1c jigsaw.

One of the features of the Mafell P1c jigsaw is that there is no roller blade guide/support for the jigsaw blade to run in/on/against on the Mafell. Most other professional jigsaws produced within the past 20 or 30 years have a roller guide. Fein is one exception I can think of to this. The lack of a back roller allows a jigsaw blade to be inserted both forward and backward facing for different types of cuts. The Hilti also lacks the interchangeable bases found on the Mafell, and the orbit setting appears to differ as well.

I've never used a Hilti jigsaw, but from what I remmember the older 850 series jigsaws were well regarded compared to the higher end Bosch jigsaws available at the same time, as well as the Festool Trion jigsaws.

 
Rip Van Winkle said:
Cealan said:
I heard the hilti jigsaw is a copy of the mafell
...
One of the features of the Mafell P1c jigsaw is that there is no roller blade guide/support for the jigsaw blade to run in/on/against on the Mafell. Most other professional jigsaws produced within the past 20 or 30 years have a roller guide. Fein is one exception I can think of to this. The lack of a back roller allows a jigsaw blade to be inserted both forward and backward facing for different types of cuts. The Hilti also lacks the interchangeable bases found on the Mafell, and the orbit setting appears to differ as well.
...

The lack of side guides also make it hard to have guides too tight or two loose, which for a non-professional makes it somewhat idiot resistant. And as you mentioned one can even put the blade in backwards, so all that is left on the blade retention is trying to shove the teeth into the retainer rather than the tang.
One can still select the wrong speed and pendulum action.

How mush value there is in avoiding the guides and guide adjustment where we personally choose which saw to get.
 
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