LR 32 Set and other options

vkumar

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Messages
567
The LR 32 Hole Drilling Set in a systainer comes with the following:
Guide plate
Centering mandrel
2 edge stops
2 linear stops
2 clamps
Operating wrench
35 mm carbide-tipped European hinge boring bit
2 carbide-tipped 5 mm shelf pin bits, one for through holes and one for stopped pin holes.

The LR-32 hole drilling set comes with the following:
Guide plate,
Centering mandrel,
Linear stops and
two edge stops

Question
Are linear stops the same as edge stops?

So for about $ 220 extra you get a systainer, two clamps, two  5mm router bits and one 35 mm bit.  Is this correct?
Also are there 2 linear stops with the second kit or not?

Thanks for the iinput.

Vijay
 
Harry,

Thanks. My question was badly framed.  Still would be interested in knowing if there are 2 linear stops with the 2nd kit. And what is the operating wrench? Is it the allen wrench or something else.

Vijay
 
vkumar said:
Question
Are linear stops the same as edge stops?  
Answer:  No.  The Edge Stops are the armature things that offset the guide rail from the front/back edge.
The linear stop is the little metal oval tab that offsets the guide rail from the top/bottom edge.   (Honestly, I find these names backwards, IMO)

vkumar said:
So for about $ 220 extra you get a systainer, two clamps, two  5mm router bits and one 35 mm bit.  Is this correct?
Also are there 2 linear stops with the second kit or not?

Answer:  Yes.
See here related to both questions:   http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/lr32-part-number-kit-question/

Based on that thread and Shane's answers I ordered the $205 kit and sure enough, the linear stops are in there.  But they are not pictured *anywhere* except the $425 kit photo.

Regarding costs:
Keep in mind, the clamps are $35, the Festool 35mm bit is about $70, the Festool 5mm bits are about $30 each, $58 systainer, and the insert to hold it all (about $10).  Or $233 total.
You *can* use a different 5mm bit.  You could also use a 35mm Forstner bit in a drill.   I do not know of anyone else that sells a 35mm *router* bit.   You should not chuck a Forstner (drill) bit into a router...
 
The Festool hole drilling bits are excellent, I'd highly recommend them, especially the 5 mm brad point bits. That's doesn't mean you have to buy the bigger set if you already have clamps and a Systainer.
 
I do not know of anyone else that sells a 35mm *router* bit.

CMT has 35mm hinge boring bits with 1/2", 3/8", and 10mm shanks FOR BORING MACHINES. I sell them but don't normally stock them. I'm happy to get them if you contact me.

Tom
 
Thanks wood_junkie and Brice. That sure clears it up.

Wood_junkie that was a good warning about not using a forstner bit in a router.

Brice I had an opportunity to use the 5mm router bit and was impressed by the quality of the holes.

Now I have some decisions to make.

Vijay
 
I'm at the same point also.  Used the LR32 in the class last week and decided i needed it.  Since I already have clamps and an extra systainer, I'll go with the lr32 set and order a 5mm bit and the systainer insert. 
 
Wood_Junkie said:
vkumar said:
Question
Are linear stops the same as edge stops?  
Answer:  No.  The Edge Stops are the armature things that offset the guide rail from the front/back edge.
The linear stop is the little metal oval tab that offsets the guide rail from the top/bottom edge.   (Honestly, I find these names backwards, IMO)

vkumar said:
So for about $ 220 extra you get a systainer, two clamps, two  5mm router bits and one 35 mm bit.  Is this correct?
Also are there 2 linear stops with the second kit or not?

Answer:  Yes.
See here related to both questions:   http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/lr32-part-number-kit-question/

Based on that thread and Shane's answers I ordered the $205 kit and sure enough, the linear stops are in there.  But they are not pictured *anywhere* except the $425 kit photo.

Regarding costs:
Keep in mind, the clamps are $35, the Festool 35mm bit is about $70, the Festool 5mm bits are about $30 each, $58 systainer, and the insert to hold it all (about $10).  Or $233 total.
You *can* use a different 5mm bit.  You could also use a 35mm Forstner bit in a drill.   I do not know of anyone else that sells a 35mm *router* bit.   You should not chuck a Forstner bit into a router...

Why is that?  I have the lr32 set and have used the 35mm bit in my 1400 a couple of times.  Am I creating unnecessary risk by doing so?
 
Russell,

Perhaps you misunderstood the post.  I believe that they are saying that you should not use a Forstner Drill bit in a router due to the fact that they aren't designed for the speed or stress.

Peter

 
Peter Halle said:
I believe that they are saying that you should not use a Forstner Drill bit in a router due to the fact that they aren't designed for the speed or stress.

Correct, an off the shelf Forstner *drill bit* is not usually precision balanced like a router bit would be and might not hold up to the much-faster router stresses.  
I slightly modified my post up above to clarify this drill vs. router bit distinction.

Drill bit normal recommendation:  3/4" Forstner drill bit is 1200 rpm for hardwood.  35mm = 1 3/8" diameter Forstner bit, so slower would be recommended (I could not find a specific source with a speed recommendation)

Routers:  Most of them are about run about 6000 rpm minimum, and top out around 30,000 rpm.  A big bit that fractures or blows apart at this speed would be very dangerous.

 
Not to mention the fact that forestner bits have "side walls" to help guide the bit, but hole-boring router bits do not since the router does the guiding. Those side walls would get mighty hot at 6000RPM.

Do a search on "hinge boring router bit" on google and you'll find a few different brands, with "Magnate" and "Woodline" being some of the cheapest. Unfortunately it's often hard to tell if they're made for a drill or for a router w/o studying the shape. If it isn't explicitly stated on the page or the product name. Some rule of thumb I've noticed; if the sides are more vertical, if it has a 10mm shank, if it says "self centering" or "brad point", it's probably a drill bit. If it's a "Forestner bit", it's definitely drill-only. If none of those things apply, the shank is short, and the sides angle in, it's probably a router bit.

E.g., compare this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P4LJ5G/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0006TP9MO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=02PRPZBCAH57SZ4VDVWA

To this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00069IHNW/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000P4JH3C&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0CNPATRG7ZYFF4B1522W

I *think* the first one is for drills and "boring machines", but the second is definitely a router bit.

OTOH, looking at this page:
http://routerbitworld.com/PhotoDetails.asp?ShowDesc=N&PhotoURL=http%3A//images.timberlinetools.com/DESC/Amana-Catalog-page147.jpg

...it's hard to see a difference between the drill bits and the router bit - other than the length.

Perhaps some more experienced folks could shed more light on notable differences between "hinge boring bits" (non-forestner) and "hinge boring router bits".

Cheers,
CList
 
I feel I may have been deceptive in my above post, but it wasn't intentional...

Like Wood_Junkie stated, boring bits, for boring machines, are run slower. Router bits are run a lot faster - by about a factor of 10.

The hinge boring bits that CMT sells are designed for boring machines.

Tom

BTW: I am editing the above entry to make it clearer.
 
vkumar said:
...what is the operating wrench? Is it the allen wrench or something else.

Vijay

I am resurrecting this thread because I don't see that this question was ever answered, and I have the same question myself. Can anyone answer this?

BTW, I searched the archives, ekat, and google and didn't find the answer...
 
Back
Top