LR 32 use in plate rack?

[lviano]

Anyone use the LR 32 to build a plate rack?  It looks like the normal spacing for a plate rack is 50mm, so 32mm would be too small.  But is 64mm too big?  Sure could make the process faster.

 

[lviano]

Ok so no one has apparently done this. I have an extra FS1400 that I will take to a CNC machine shop and have them drill holes in it 50mm apart. It may be useful for other purposes as well.

 

[peter halle]

Sorry that no one has piped in.  I suspect that a few more details might create some comments.  I suspect that many people don't understand or know what a plate rack is, or what you are trying to achieve.

Peter

 

[lviano]

OK so I am building Kitchen cabs for my son & daughter-in-laws new house. The design in the upper cabs includes a plate rack where the plates stand vertically separated by 1/4" 12" dowels. The rack will have room for ~15 plates.  Normally they are made with +\- 3/4" strips (4) with holes drill about 50mm apart (a real pain even with a drill press). My wife ( not her kitchen, but she still is the boss!) insists that the rack be removable for easy cleaning. My thought was to make a normal face framed upper and build an inset consisting of 2 boards, upper & lower, separated by two rows of 12" dowels spaced either 50 or 64mm apart. The LR 32 will do the spacing. Above the rack in the same cab will be a shelf for glassware that will be removable and thus allow the rack to be removed. I know I will have to put in strips on the bottom of the rack so the plates won't roll out.

 

[nclemmons]

If you are only doing a plate rack that is maybe 4 feet wide with a top and bottom drilled with holes, why not just tape four pieces together and mark it out with a tape measure and then drill through all four on a drill press?  Seems like it would be faster and cheaper than going the CNC route.

The images I found when googling 'plate rack' seemed to be pretty simple designs, unless I am missing something in your approach.

neil

 

[peter halle]

I will throw out a suggestion.  How about considering making  you own template.  Make the holes sized to fit a bushing you already own and then go to town.  2 inch spacing is pretty darn close to 50 mm.

Just a thought.

Peter

 

[lviano]

A friend has the CNC and will do it for free.  Stacking the dowel runners would work but I would have through holes and would have to screw in the front runners to clean so some disassembly is required. My way you just pull out the rack in one piece. Or you hire a monkey with small fingers to reach in and clean  [big grin]

 

[NERemodeling]

If you can have someone else do the work for free then why haven't you already taken it to him [scratch chin] [poke]

Seems like CNC will be your best/easiest option

One thing I will say is don't get hung up on what the spacing is "supposed" to be.  Grab the plates that she will be using, measure them, add a 1/4" or so for wiggle room and there is your spacing.    You will probably find that 50mm is a bit large and you can pack a bit more into the cabinet by customizing the size to your needs.  Who knows, 32mm might work fine (64mm seems huge!!)

Be sure to let us know what you end up with!!

John

 

[mastercabman]

Most cabinets manufactuer build their plate rack so that you can remove each dowel for easy clean up.
You just need to have a top and bottom strips with holes(2" apart/50mm)and cut the dowels so that you would slip them up in the holes on the top strip and then falls in place on the bottom holes.
Does that make sense?
And I would just have your friend drill the holes on his cnc.

 

[RONWEN]

OK so I am building Kitchen cabs for my son & daughter-in-laws new house. The design in the upper cabs includes a plate rack where the plates stand vertically separated by 1/4" 12" dowels. The rack will have room for ~15 plates.  Normally they are made with +\- 3/4" strips (4) with holes drill about 50mm apart (a real pain even with a drill press). My wife ( not her kitchen, but she still is the boss!) insists that the rack be removable for easy cleaning. My thought was to make a normal face framed upper and build an inset consisting of 2 boards, upper & lower, separated by two rows of 12" dowels spaced either 50 or 64mm apart. The LR 32 will do the spacing. Above the rack in the same cab will be a shelf for glassware that will be removable and thus allow the rack to be removed. I know I will have to put in strips on the bottom of the rack so the plates won't roll out.

If you set your drill press fence at half the width of the 3/4" strip from the spindle CL then a pin stop ~50mm from the spindle CL that has a 1/4" pin to drop into the first hole drilled (to register the work piece) and then each additional hole as they are drilled it wouldn't be too bad of an operation.

I'll be curious to see a picture of the finished rack.  [popcorn]

 

[tbellemare]

Your buddy with the CNC should note that the holes are slightly elongated. That's to accommodate the movement as the router sled is adjusted to take the play out between it and the rail.

Tom

 

[lviano]

I am taking in the rail today. He probably won't get to it until next week. Thanks for the tip on the elongated holes, I take the standard lr32 rail in so he can put the calipers to it.