LR 32 use with side cabs and dadoed partitions

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ericbuggeln

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This weekend I started to build a 24W x 56L x 12 D frameless cab with two dadoed vertical partitions for a utility room we have remodeled.  When it came time to break out the LR 32 I realized that the shelf pins would not line up if the sides were 24 inches and the partitions would be cut at 24 minus two thicknesses of ply plus 1/2 inch (1/4 top and 1/4 bottom).

What is the best way to get these to line up?  Should I cut all pieces at 24, then drill shelf pins, then calculate how much to remove and divide it by two, so that exactly half is cut off the top and half off the bottom?  Seems like a lot of room for error, but the best idea I can come up with. 

Any thoughts or other types of methods would be appreciated, thanks Eric
 
what if you used a made a block to offset the alignment of LR32 on the partitions the the correct amount.

 
I think I am going to cut spacers out of mdf scrap and try to temporarily screw them into the top and bottom.  Screw marks will be covered by the dado anyway.  Thanks Harry for chiming in, Im surprised no one in FOG land had any input on this, I will take pics and report back, Eric
 
You're on the right track with using spacer blocks for the partitions, if that is how it has to be done.  If you want the holes to be pefectly aligned between the sides and the partition,  use butt joints on the partition, and a spacer is just a thickness of your material.  This way there is no error to be introduced by trying to cut a spacer that is as wide as the portion remaining in the dado.  It's simpler this way. 

Been there done that, but I found a better way--build two cabinets instead of one wide one.  Partitions are PITA.  Since it's frameless, there's no reason to have partitions anyway.  You can have two cabinets built by the time you mess around aligning shelf pin holes like you desribed.

Hope this helps.

Joe
 
JEP said:
You're on the right track with using spacer blocks for the partitions, if that is how it has to be done.  If you want the holes to be pefectly aligned between the sides and the partition,  use butt joints on the partition, and a spacer is just a thickness of your material.  This way there is no error to be introduced by trying to cut a spacer that is as wide as the portion remaining in the dado.  It's simpler this way. 

Been there done that, but I found a better way--build two cabinets instead of one wide one.  Partitions are PITA.  Since it's frameless, there's no reason to have partitions anyway.  You can have two cabinets built by the time you mess around aligning shelf pin holes like you desribed.

Hope this helps.

Joe

Good advice on both accounts Joe.
 
Haven't done this before, but this is how I would do it:

1) take a piece of scrap, the same thickness as your top / base.

2) put a dado in that scrap, the same depth as the dado you are actually putting in the top / base

3) cut one end of that piece of scrap along the edge of the dado, so that you end up with a piece with a lap.

4) If you have an mft3 you would then clamp that piece vertically against one side. Then position the internal partition against the lap and clamp in place. You can then register the guide rail against the outside of the lap, giving you the correct pin alignment.

5) If you dont have an mft3, you could simply cut the lap off to use it as the spacer.
 
I will admit that wanting to use certain Festools and there accessories to practice my skills led me to what I now see as a poor design.  But it is yet another challenge in my young woodworking career I will have to overcome, thanks guys for the enlightenment, Eric
 
It took me a couple reads to fully grasp the question and the responses have been good, but IMO I'd cut the partition the same as the sides drill them holes measure the the thickness from the outside of the top to the bottom of the dado and cut that amount off the top and bottom and be done with it.  If the holes are out of level .00015 big deal anyway.  The other idea of building two cabinets would make it easier but you'd have a double thickness in the middle (might look odd depending on personal taste) and require the extra ply (may not be a concern of yours).   There is many ways to skin a cat and all are good unless your the cat!

P.S.  My answer was based on the assumption that your sides of the case run all the way to the top (no visible butt joint from the side)and the top is attached to the sides in a rebate (rabbit for us yanks) and all are indexed from the same length. 
 
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