LR 32

Prior to buying an OF1010 I adapted the LR32 base to fit an Elu MF177 (same as Dewault 625). I only had to drill two holes in the plate to match two in the router base but both of them required me to countersink thru the black plastic shoes on the bottom of the plate.

The router just fits due to the hold down posts but it is doable.

In the end the collet nut in the router failed and they are not available in Australia giving me the perfect excuse to buy an OF2200 as a replacement. [big grin] I then found that its collet and nut are identical to the Elu (Dewalt)  [eek] but its base is too large for the LR32. [sad]

So along came the OF1010.
 
Sure, Wouldn't be very difficult I would think. I stopped on the way home at the local woodcraft and took a look at the plate within the kit (though after a quick search on Amazon I found that the plate itself is available for about $120). What I would do is fabricate an adapter using a phenolic plate that could be bolted to the base plate of the LR 32 and machined to match the bolt pattern of the router you wish to adapt to. The plate wouldn't have to be phenolic, it could be machined out of aluminum or potential even made out of wood. 

Getting the bold patterns right for either side would be very easy's with simple tools. You take the plate off of your router, center the primary whole, and transfer punch the bolt pattern into the adapter. You do the same activity with the LR 32 plate. You may be able to reuse the tapered machine screws that came out of your router to attach the adapter to your router. To attach the LR 32 plate to the adapter you need to drill and tap the holes to match the adapter plate but because you're picking the top, they could be whatever thread pitch you want and just about any type of head as well because the LR 32 plate has standoffs to make it the same height as the rail.

After reading the manual for the LR 32 it appears there are two ways to attach a festool router. If you have the 1400 then you use two holes that are cut through the plate and screw in the bottom of the router which are on opposite sides of the main hole. If you have the 1010, you use the plastic screw clamps that exist counter each other on the plate on the top. An adapter plate can attach using either method but if I were doing it I would likely use that through holes from the bottom. The only thing you have to take into account if you need a little slop to allow centering of the router in the primary hole.

If you're getting fancy, you could make a single adapter work for a bunch of different routers as long as none of their bold patterns lineup in such a way that you just couldn't attach the router to the plate. Not much different than the plates they make for router tables that are somewhat universal.
 
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