LR32 - First use a dismal failure

[festoolfan1000]

I'll put my vote in for the Rockler jig as well. Its worth owning but so is the LR 32, I have the basic kit and built a very simple jig as per someones design posted on this forum. The LR 32 with the jig requires no setup for drilling standard kitchen uppers and lowers. Beyond that other advantages of the LR32 as some mentioned previously:

-dustless drilling (a very cool benefit)
-super fast and the rail can be labelled to make boring repetitive patterns simple
-zero tearout or chipping
-accurate (the rockler is not quite as accurate)
-did I mention dust free?!!

To the OP, I'd suggest a quick search on the forum for "LR32 jig." I suspect it will solve any issues you have and it takes about 20 minutes to build.

Cheers,

Michael

 

[Greg_R]

If you are drilling a LOT of holes, I would suggest taking a look at the jig I made Here.  You use a router with a plungebar and can really crank out the holes quickly and accurately.  If you are only doing 1-2 cabinets then the Rockler or LR32 options will work.  I had 2500 holes to drill (large bookcase project) and tried multiple methods (including the LR32 and Rockler jig) and this DIY jig is definitely the way to go.

 

[James Watriss]

Hi all,

I've used both. The cost is an obvious issue, but I think I'm an LR 32 convert for various reasons.

BUT, I did have similar initial problems. I was drilling holes in a scrap of plywood, so no harm done, but here's what I encountered.

I did use the alignment pin/mandrel thing. BUT, my problem was with the clamps that held down the 1010. When I turned the knob to tighten the clamps down, the nut that's molded into the bottom of the knob engaged with the round clamp, which swiveled ever so slightly...  and shoved the base of the router out of alignment. So that last twist of the knob to snug it down was what threw everything off. I put the router upside down, pushed the base down to see what was going on, and listened to the mandrel tapping on the LR 32 base.

"gee," I thought. "That's odd."

I repeated the same exercise for about 5 minutes.

Loosen, drop the router so the mandrel centers it, tighten, raise, lower.... *click.*

F#ck!

Loosen, drop the router so the mandrel centers it, tighten, raise, lower.... *click.*

F#ck!

Eventually I figured out that the router twitched when I snugged it down. So, I got 2 metal washers, coated them in Myland's wax. It's a mix of beeswax and carnauba... the beeswax will wear down pretty fast, but the carnauba is harder, and will last for a good long time... AND the solvent is turpentine, instead of xylene or toluene.

Anyway, I installed the waxed washers between the knobs and the 'jaw' of the clamp. The knob was able to spin very well without engaging the clamp jaw, so it was a lot easier to keep the 1010 properly aligned, and get it nicely snugged down without it moving.

With the router base just slightly out of alignment, because you have to run the track both ways, the error is doubled... so one line is a little high, the other is a little low... and you get the results you saw. And the tighter you try to clamp the router down, ironically, the more you'll shove it out of alignment.

Try the washer trick. It helps. Fixed it for me, anyway.

 

[honeydoman]

james,  i had my lr32 on my 1400, and then bought the 1010 router and put it on their and it started to slip also.  so I switched it back to the 1400 which the base screws down and once it is aligned it stays put.

 

[bruegf]

I've not seen it slip on my 1400 either, but it is critical that it is properly centered.  It's worth taking the extra minute or two it takes to get it right.

Fred