LR32 modifications and questions

[NERemodeling]

Hey all,

I am trying to accomplish several things and was looking to see if anyone else could lend some advice

I picked up an lr32 adapter plate and centering mandrel and would like to modify it to work with my bosch 1617 router (upon quick inspection it seems that i will be able to do this)  has anyone else done something similar to this?  how did you accomplish it

also i couldn't see myself spending $480 on the set (plus rail) so im trying to piece together my own with just the parts i need

i already have the adapter plate $115
from erock's awesome videos it seems that the lr32 connectors are very useful so i will buy those $27  (do you get 2 or 1 for the $27 ? )
i feel i can do without the edge stops... thoughts?
my big question is bits    are there other sources for 35mm and 5mm bits?    1/4" or 1/2" shank size would be great to work with my bosch but i did find an 8mm bosch collet and also an 8mm whiteside collet adapter that are both around $10 each

i did find a 3/8 collet adapter on amazon, made by whiteside.  could i just use a 35mm forestner with a 3/8 shank?  i can get a nice carbide tipped forestner 35mm bit for around $20-30 instead of festools $75 and they are more available locally for when i need replacements

if the 35mm - 1 3/8" forestner bit would work then would a 1/4" forestner bit work for the shelf pin holes ?(obviously i would not be able to use 5mm shelf pins but i already have an imperial forestner bit set so that would be another savings for now)

do you need both the brad and the spear point bits or really only the brad point?

all totaled up and including a sys 1  i expect to spend $216 if i can use my existing forestner bits or $321 if i need the festool bits

thanks in advance for any input, advice and suggestions

John 

 

[webfarmer]

In my limited experience: the brad point bit is great for the 5mm holes in a stand-alone box.  The spear point bit is great for drilling through holes in a panel that is shared.  I used this bit for drilling shared panels of melamine with no blow out.  Very nice.

I think you would be more pleased using the edge stops - and even happier with the whole set; but you are much more experienced than I.

Hope it works out for you.

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Forstners are a bad idea for router use, they are made for drills with much lower RPM's.

The LR32 connectors come in packs of 2 but they are not really connectors, just spacers. The Edge stops are critical, and are designed to center from the plate, to give you accurate setbacks.

The Festool bits are high quality. If you want to save money then skip on the 35mm bit and bore your cup hinges on a drill press. Get the 5mm bit brad point bit though. Btw you can get good through holes with the brad point if you have a backing plate( or another side panel if you like to batch parts. )

 

[ajones]

Hi
best to get the edge stops although it would be easy enough to cobble something together I doubt its worth the effort. you set them up using the lr-32 base so its all straight forward for reliable offsets.Do buy a 35mm cutter that has been made to work with a router.

the 5mm cutters are not hugely expensive so you may as well have the right tool for the job

the stops for the end of the rail are sold in pairs in the UK you will need these to allow repeatable offsets from the tops/bottoms of your workpiece.

Then its just a choice of guide rail length

 

[erock]

John,
First, thanks for the complement.
I would recommend the stop rods.  They are used to line up the base plate with the holly guide rail.  Unless you plan on making up your own stop rods.  This way you can achieve the front row of holes centered at 37mm.
The end stops are also needed so your holes will line up on the left and right sides of your cabinets.  Again, unless you have a master plan on making up your own end stops that would attach to the rails,  the base plate, end stops, center pin and stop rods are the key componets to the system.  I know the LR32 is a big ticket item and you are trying to cut cost, but I think by buying the key compents it will save you time and headache to come. 
As the forstner bits go, I wouldn't try to chuck one up in a router, just my thoughts.  Buy router bits for that process.

If you watch the Festool video on how to set up the LR32 system you will notice how the base plate needs the stop rods for the first initial set up of the LR32 system. 

Hope this helps.

Eric

 

[honeydoman]

John, if you are a professional carpenter and are going to be using this for cabinets etc... I HIGHLY recommend to buy the festool entire set up and spend the few extra dollars, it will be worth it....

it is sorta like a buying parts of a ford, chevy and dodge and put it all together and expect a Mercedes....it aint going happen...

this lr 32 set up is sweet and does need all the correct parts so the holes line up both ways..

spend the extra doe this set up last for years and again is well worth the investment.. invest in the tools and it will make you money back dont cheep out

oh the pointed bit I use all the time and most of my holes do not go through but either bit is fine..

 

[NERemodeling]

thanks everyone for the responses,
i am a remodeling contractor so my work is always changing, im not building cabinets/builtins every day more like 3-6 times a year (and not really complete kitchens) i usually (but not always) sub my vanities and kitchens out to a local cabinet shop but am starting to think with my new track saw and lr32 system i may start building at least my own boxes

its pretty clear that i should forget about using my forestner bits and just pony up for the festool bits..  if you could only have one of the 5mm bits which would it be? spear point??  is that one more versatile or do you really need both?

Kreg, i usually do over invest in my tools and see the lr32 as a luxury item for me based on how infrequently i will be using it i was really wondering if there were pieces of the set that weren't 100% necessary to its use.

Eric, im not seeing or maybe understand what you mean about the stop rods/edge stops somehow being used for the first initial setup of the base plate? do you have a link to the video you are talking about?

as for the stop rods/edge stops i'm still not 100% sold, especially at $130 for the pair of them,  it seems that all they do is help reference your guide rail parallel to the edge of the panel, in a production application or even frequent use i could see how the repeatability would be key but wouldn't a good ole fashioned tape measure or simple jig be able to accomplish the same thing for infrequent use, just a little slower (i could just figure out the distance from the center of the bit to the splinter guard on the guide rail and add that number to 37mm to get my spacing)

thanks again

little side note, what type of metric tape measure does everyone use, i got a fastcap metric/imperial and the hook doesnt "float like a stanley or most tapes, this gives an error of the thickness of the hook  depending on weather you measure from the inside or outside of the hook

 

[erock]

Here you go John.

  The base plate is first centered with the Festool router using the center mandrel.  Then the router/base plate assembly is set on the guide rail and calibrated with the edge stops (I believe I called them the stop rods in my previous response to you, sorry.) 

So when the base plate and edge stops are calibrated with one another it centers the 5mm router bit with the marks on the edge stops.  So you wouldn't have to rely on marking the top and bottom of your cabinets side panels. 

As a system it works great.  The set less the systainer and router bits is $232.  I think if you are using your own router and wanted to buy another makers router bits this set (part number 583 290)  is your best bet.  Personally, IMO, l think if you are using a tape measure to locate your shelf pin holes, you are leaving yourself a chance for misaligned holes, so your shelves have a good chance to rattle.  I'm sure as a pro carpenter you take pride in your work, which is why you have invested into some Festool tools.  So why cut corners now on a couple key parts of the LR32 system.  You can buy other router bits to save some money, but the Festool bits are made with the same high quality that the tools are.  Just my two cents buddy.



Eric

 

[Trans former]

HI,

I have found the edge stops can be also useful for repeat rips with the guide rail and saw and use them quite often for that, although they can only be set up to do maybe 12" - 16" rips.
also the 35mm bit in the set is the most beautiful I have ever used and also works lovely in a cordless drill for the odd hinge.

however if you have a base plate, get your guide rail and your off. [big grin] nothing wrong with setting up to a pencil mark with a tape measure.

ps, I use a stanley metric only tape measure, best thing I have ever bought but probably no good for you guys over there.

 

[peter halle]

HI,

I have found the edge stops can be also useful for repeat rips with the guide rail and saw and use them quite often for that, although they can only be set up to do maybe 12" - 16" rips.
also the 35mm bit in the set is the most beautiful I have ever used and also works lovely in a cordless drill for the odd hinge.

however if you have a base plate, get your guide rail and your off. [big grin] nothing wrong with setting up to a pencil mark with a tape measure.

ps, I use a stanley metric only tape measure, best thing I have ever bought but probably no good for you guys over there.

I was wondering when someone would post about using the edge stops for that!  That has been on my mind for quite a while.

Thanks.

Peter

 

[ScotF]

I know this has been covered before, but in case anyone missed it -- you can order the LR32 kit in the cardboard box and it comes with everything the full version comes with except for bits, clamps and the Systainer itself.  I opted for this version so I could customize it for my needs with bits I wanted to use.  Even if you buy everything separately, the cost is not much different between the two versions.

Scot

 

[NERemodeling]

I know this has been covered before, but in case anyone missed it -- you can order the LR32 kit in the cardboard box and it comes with everything the full version comes with except for bits, clamps and the Systainer itself.  I opted for this version so I could customize it for my needs with bits I wanted to use.  Even if you buy everything separately, the cost is not much different between the two versions.

Scot

does this kit include the "496938 Longitudinal stop"  also called lr32 guide rail connector,    the picture in the catalog looks like they are not included however they seem very important to the system. 

 

[NERemodeling]

HI,

I have found the edge stops can be also useful for repeat rips with the guide rail and saw and use them quite often for that, although they can only be set up to do maybe 12" - 16" rips.
also the 35mm bit in the set is the most beautiful I have ever used and also works lovely in a cordless drill for the odd hinge.

however if you have a base plate, get your guide rail and your off. [big grin] nothing wrong with setting up to a pencil mark with a tape measure.

ps, I use a stanley metric only tape measure, best thing I have ever bought but probably no good for you guys over there.

great idea for a second use of the edge stops, that definitely makes them more valuable

thanks for assuring me that i wouldn't be doing anything wrong without using the edge stops, slower and possibly less accurate, yes but i can live with that for now. id like to just start drilling some holes and over time i can always add to the system if need be

ive always used Stanley tapes almost exclusively and have always had great luck.  maybe i will hunt around online for a metric only version (dont think i would find one in the stores around here)

Thanks for the advice

John

 

[Brice Burrell]

I know this has been covered before, but in case anyone missed it -- you can order the LR32 kit in the cardboard box and it comes with everything the full version comes with except for bits, clamps and the Systainer itself.  I opted for this version so I could customize it for my needs with bits I wanted to use.  Even if you buy everything separately, the cost is not much different between the two versions.

Scot

does this kit include the "496938 Longitudinal stop"  also called lr32 guide rail connector,    the picture in the catalog looks like they are not included however they seem very important to the system. 

The set includes everything as Scot mentioned, even the longitudinal stops/connectors.

 

[NERemodeling]

Here you go John.

 The base plate is first centered with the Festool router using the center mandrel.  Then the router/base plate assembly is set on the guide rail and calibrated with the edge stops (I believe I called them the stop rods in my previous response to you, sorry.)  

So when the base plate and edge stops are calibrated with one another it centers the 5mm router bit with the marks on the edge stops.  So you wouldn't have to rely on marking the top and bottom of your cabinets side panels.  

As a system it works great.  The set less the systainer and router bits is $232.  I think if you are using your own router and wanted to buy another makers router bits this set (part number 583 290)  is your best bet.  Personally, IMO, l think if you are using a tape measure to locate your shelf pin holes, you are leaving yourself a chance for misaligned holes, so your shelves have a good chance to rattle.  I'm sure as a pro carpenter you take pride in your work, which is why you have invested into some Festool tools.  So why cut corners now on a couple key parts of the LR32 system.  You can buy other router bits to save some money, but the Festool bits are made with the same high quality that the tools are.   Just my two cents buddy.



Eric

Eric,   very informative video (you got him beat big time though)  i was searching the festool tv Channel and also a general search of lr32 and never found that one so thank you for the link.

i actually would tend to agree with you on calling the edge stops, "stop rods"    i think is a much more descriptive name for them and it is more clear what you are referring to,   whereas i think "edge stops" could easily get confused with "end stops"

i have nothing but respect for your tool-set, skill-set and level of detail as to which you work,   i do take the extreme pride in my work and that is one of the main reasons for making the switch to festools. unfortunately i cant have them all at once and have to pace myself. Since there isnt a big discount to buying the lr32 as a set i figured i would buy what i needed to get boring holes (saving some money for other festool purchases) and fill in pieces such as the stop rods as needed.  

the rail, base plate end stops and bits are going to be a billion times more accurate (with some careful measuring) than the old plastic jigs and hand drill  [embarassed] i used in the past not to mention how much faster!!

Thanks again for all the help, i noticed from your other post you said you have a few more videos in mind and a possible complete build (that would be sweet)  any hints on whats coming next??

lastly, awsome idea to color code and use dry erase marker for your holes!   i will for sure be putting that to use.

John

 

[NERemodeling]

I know this has been covered before, but in case anyone missed it -- you can order the LR32 kit in the cardboard box and it comes with everything the full version comes with except for bits, clamps and the Systainer itself.  I opted for this version so I could customize it for my needs with bits I wanted to use.  Even if you buy everything separately, the cost is not much different between the two versions.

Scot

does this kit include the "496938 Longitudinal stop"  also called lr32 guide rail connector,    the picture in the catalog looks like they are not included however they seem very important to the system. 

The set includes everything as Scot mentioned, even the longitudinal stops/connectors.

Thanks Brice, i wonder why they dont mention or picture them in the catalog 

 

[Brice Burrell]

HI,

I have found the edge stops can be also useful for repeat rips with the guide rail and saw and use them quite often for that, although they can only be set up to do maybe 12" - 16" rips.
also the 35mm bit in the set is the most beautiful I have ever used and also works lovely in a cordless drill for the odd hinge.

however if you have a base plate, get your guide rail and your off. [big grin] nothing wrong with setting up to a pencil mark with a tape measure.

ps, I use a stanley metric only tape measure, best thing I have ever bought but probably no good for you guys over there.

great idea for a second use of the edge stops, that definitely makes them more valuable

thanks for assuring me that i wouldn't be doing anything wrong without using the edge stops, slower and possibly less accurate, yes but i can live with that for now. id like to just start drilling some holes and over time i can always add to the system if need be

ive always used Stanley tapes almost exclusively and have always had great luck.  maybe i will hunt around online for a metric only version (dont think i would find one in the stores around here)

Thanks for the advice

John

John, I think you'd be happier with the whole set right from the get go.  There can be a learning curve with the LR32 setup as is, it will only get harder if you try to figure it out without helpful components.  One of the key concepts of the Festool LR32 setup is dead-on precision and repeatability.  The edge stops really help to achieve this.

With that said, if you're only drilling basic shelf pin holes you could make due with just the base plate and guide rail.  However, you'll be missing out on a big part of what the LR32 setup can do.  It can do more than just shelf pin holes, it will do system holes for hinge plates and drawer hardware, also, hinge cup holes.  You'll need the whole kit to pull this off accurately.  My two cents.    

 

[ScotF]

I know this has been covered before, but in case anyone missed it -- you can order the LR32 kit in the cardboard box and it comes with everything the full version comes with except for bits, clamps and the Systainer itself.  I opted for this version so I could customize it for my needs with bits I wanted to use.  Even if you buy everything separately, the cost is not much different between the two versions.

Scot

does this kit include the "496938 Longitudinal stop"  also called lr32 guide rail connector,    the picture in the catalog looks like they are not included however they seem very important to the system.  

The set includes everything as Scot mentioned, even the longitudinal stops/connectors.

Yes, they include the longitudinal stops/connectors and the picture on the cardboard box clearly shows them on it -- I agree that it is confusing since the catalog and website make no mention of this item number in the break down of what is included in the cardboard box version.  In my experience all of the bits Festool sells are really high quality and a good value, but you may or may not need all of them.  I opted for just the brad-point bit for shelf pin holes and a 20mm bit initially.  I do not envision having to drill all the way through a panel with the spear point bit and I do not have current need for any 35mm hinges at the moment but I can easily add these parts should the need arise.  

Scot

 

[NERemodeling]

scot, thanks for the parts breakdown. it is odd how they don't explain the contents well in the catalog/online.  i initial idea was similar to yours, i didnt think i would need everything in the set and could better use the money elsewhere right now.   

I was given just the plate a few weeks ago for my birthday and today just placed an order with the boys over at toolnut to finish up what i thought i would need    got the 55" holey rail, brad point 5mm, 35mm bit and a few other goodies unrelated    (oops just checked my order and saw i forgot the Longitudinal stops, looks like those will be showing up to the party a day or two late  [embarassed] )

i'll make sure to report back and let you all know how i make out!