LR32 Questions

Steve_PA

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Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
5
I am doing a series of built-ins and cabinets that need shelf pins.
I need to use bushings in the holes (the kind that either the pins screw into or the sleeve type). It requires a 9 or 10mm hole.
I know the LR32 comes with a 5mm. Is it possible to do the 9 or 10's?
Thanks.
 
Just to clarify what Brice is saying ....

As long as it has a shank that will fit the router you are using which I assume will be the 8mm collet in this case?

Best,
Todd
 
Notorious T.O.D. said:
Just to clarify what Brice is saying ....

As long as it has a shank that will fit the router you are using which I assume will be the 8mm collet in this case?
Best,
Todd
One point to think about is that the Festool bits are Center point  for sizes over 3mm and the flutes appear not to be cutting. Look at.
http://www.acetoolonline.com/Festool-491069-Dowel-drill-p/fes-491069.htm
They are 3mm 5mm 6mm 8mm & 10mm

I will have mine soon  ;D but not quite yet  :-[
 
I have Festool's 5mm and 10mm brad point router drilling bits.  Both produce excellent hole quality, better than I obtain when using a Whiteside 1/4 inch upcut spiral bit.  An ordinary 2-fluted straight bit will work but is likely to generate more heat and possibly produce some "burned" holes.  Don't ask me how I know this.

Dave R.
 
Notorious T.O.D. said:
Just to clarify what Brice is saying ....

As long as it has a shank that will fit the router you are using which I assume will be the 8mm collet in this case?

Best,
Todd

Depends on the router you have as to what size shank you can use, the OF 1010 has 1/4" and 8 mm collets, the OF 1400 the 1/4", 8 mm and 1/2" (US versions of these routers).
 
Dave, when you use the brad point bits do you run your router at a slow speed? I ordered a couple to use drilling 32mm holes. Looks like the real deal.
 
Good question, one I hadn't really thought about given the very small diameter of these bits.  I have run my router on its highest speed setting.  No problems or evidence of burning the wood (mostly birch core and poplar core plywood).  Most of my hole drilling has been with the 5mm brad point bit for Euro 5mm shelf pins and screws.  Before I obtained a 1/4 inch upcut spiral bit I tried using some of my 1/4 2-flue straight bits on birch plywood, with these I did get some burning of the holes, but the bits I was using weren't the best quality or the sharpest.

Dave R.
 
Today I went to Woodwerks and the traveling Woodworking Show, both in Columbus, Oh.  I asked a few of the vendors what 1/4 inch bit should I use in my plunge router to drill shelf pin holes.  The all recommended a 2-flute upcut spiral bit.  In comparing the bottom cutting end of some brands, I noted some were shaped somewhat like a brad point bit, although the "ears" or "spurs" were not as prominent as they are on a Festool brad point bit.  Onsrud (MicroFence sells them) bits appeared to have more prominent "spurs" than Freud.  I currently have a Whiteside spiral bit, but have not gone out into my shop to compare it profile to these two other brands.

Dave R.
 
Upcut spiral bits are still designd to cut with the sides, as in grooving or morticing. Most do end cut, or drill, to some degree as well but they are not drills. You need to make sure they are designated as center cutting (almost all 1/4 inch do cut to center). The problem is that to keep the tool strong enough to not snap off when side loading, the center web must be left thicker than a drilling tool needs to be. Indeed, in a drilling tool, you need a thinner web so that the chips can evacuate up the flutes freely. Most 1/4 inch upcuts are essentially 1/4 endmills that are virtually undistinguishable from metalcutting forms. They are designed to plunge a little and then side cut, plunge a little more and side cut a little more, making extra room for the chips to escape.

If you use an upcut and experience chip clogging, just peck the hole a bit, like halfway, clear chips by lifting out and plunge again. For shelf pin holes it is probably not necessary to do this but this technique will eliminate burning if you are getting.
 
Thanks, Greg.  Given there are so many shelf support fittings designed for use with a 1/4 inch hole, and jigs for use with a router,I don't understand why specifically designed bits are not available.  This brings me back to the possible use of a 10mm bit designed for use with a boring machine.  If I obtained a 10mm collet (I know that Festool lists a part number) or adapter, I could buy a 10mm shank, 1/4 inch brad point bit, e.g. from Whiteside.  I also queried the Festool rep. working at the Woodwerks show on Jan 16, 2009 if he thought there would be problems due to the much higher speed of most routers compared to most drills, and he said not likely at the lower end of the router speed range.

Dave R.
 
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