LR32 Router Bits- Alternatives?

[Acrobat]

Hi, just a quick query to anyone who may know...
I have purchased the Festool "LR32 set" (not the full in systainer kit) that has pretty much everything I need, as I have a holey rail already, but which does not come with any router bits. I have the OF1010 router. I see from videos and articles that I require the 35mm cup hinge bit and a 5mm bit for the shelf pins.

My question is, since the price is rather steep for me regarding the large bit, is there other manufacturers bits available one would recommend to fit the OF1010. The problem I see is that it only takes 1/4" or up to 8mm shank bits and as such the ones I have been looking at here in NZ are larger shanked at at least 10mm to 12.5mm (1/2") so will not fit. Any recommendations appreciated.

thanks

 

[ccarrolladams]

When using the LR32 system and the OF1010, it is very convenient to use the 8mm collet, meaning the various bits need 8mm shanks.

The reason is the centering mandrel has an 8mm shank. The whole point on the centering mandrel is precision of the set up. If after using the mandrel to center you need to change to a 1/4" collet not only do ou waste a lot of time, chances are good the set up will drift off center.

There are not many alternative 5mm router bits that make clean bottom holes besides those made by Festool, which have the 8mm shank. The good news is those Festool 5mm bits last a very long time. My suggestion is to use a slow speed on the OF1010. That preserves the sharpness of the bit and does not harm the hole quality. Drilling those shelf pin holes goes so fast you will not notice a difference.

The problem is harder with the 35mm hinge cup hole bit. The OF1010 only has so much capacity, meaning the bit needs to not only be designed to make clean flat bottom holes, the shank needs to be short. Good luck finding another 35mm bit with a 1/4" or 8mm shank short enough. Like the 5mm bits the good news is those 35mm Festool bits last a long time.

Also do not forget that some really nice hinges need 20mm cup holes, and Festool still makes the appropriate bit which work great in the OF1010. And, sometimes, especially when making shelf-organizers, the 5mm shelf-pin holes need to go all the way through. For those use the Festool spade-point bit instead of the brad-point bit used for normal shelf-pin holes.

 

[fdengel]

Description on the Festool site says the centering mandrel works with both collet sizes (1/4" and 8mm):

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/routers/other-accessories/centering-mandrel-492187

 

[ccarrolladams]

Are you sure that is the centering mandrel used with the LR32 System?

 

[GarryMartin]

Are you sure that is the centering mandrel used with the LR32 System?

It's not the one used in the LR32 system. It's not even the right picture for the part number listed...  [wink]

[attachimg=#]

The correct part number for the centring mandrel in the LR32 system is 485826 (that's not it in the photo by the way; the photo is the correct image for 492187). It should be available from Festool USA as a spare part.

 

[Trans former]

The festool 35mm hinge bit is very special, also works really well in a drill for the odd hinge.

and the mandrill is defo 8mm shank.

 

[mouppe]

When using the LR32 system and the OF1010, it is very convenient to use the 8mm collet, meaning the various bits need 8mm shanks.

The reason is the centering mandrel has an 8mm shank. The whole point on the centering mandrel is precision of the set up. If after using the mandrel to center you need to change to a 1/4" collet not only do ou waste a lot of time, chances are good the set up will drift off center.

There are not many alternative 5mm router bits that make clean bottom holes besides those made by Festool, which have the 8mm shank. The good news is those Festool 5mm bits last a very long time. My suggestion is to use a slow speed on the OF1010. That preserves the sharpness of the bit and does not harm the hole quality. Drilling those shelf pin holes goes so fast you will not notice a difference.

The problem is harder with the 35mm hinge cup hole bit. The OF1010 only has so much capacity, meaning the bit needs to not only be designed to make clean flat bottom holes, the shank needs to be short. Good luck finding another 35mm bit with a 1/4" or 8mm shank short enough. Like the 5mm bits the good news is those 35mm Festool bits last a long time.

Also do not forget that some really nice hinges need 20mm cup holes, and Festool still makes the appropriate bit which work great in the OF1010. And, sometimes, especially when making shelf-organizers, the 5mm shelf-pin holes need to go all the way through. For those use the Festool spade-point bit instead of the brad-point bit used for normal shelf-pin holes.

I think the centring mandrel is used to centre the router base on the plate. Once the base is fixed, if you change the collet and router bit, the bit centre will still be in the centre. No?

 

[ccarrolladams]

Look, it is not my place to argue the theory of LR32. I have been using and teaching System 32 since 1948. I have also drilled hundreds of thousands 5mm shelf-pin holes with various systems, so I have experience.

Yes, the centering mandrel is used to establish the position of the OF1010 on the LR32 guide plate. The OF1010 is held in place with clamp screws. The OF1400 is held in place with screws going through special holes in the place into the router base. So, the setting on center of the OF1400 remains constant better than with the OF1010.

Where the theory differs from reality is that it is very difficult to change the collet of an OF1010 when it is mounted on the guide plate. Once you have that set up and try it you will see this.

Mind you, the OF1010 is otherwise ideal for drilling shelf-pin and hinge cup holes using genuine Festool bits. The springs on the heavier OF1400 need more downward force, so after a few minutes it gets tiring compared to the OF1010 which is lighter so the springs are not as stiff and it has far more power than needed for these drilling operations.

So, when using an OF1010 for these tasks, we need to remember the downside, namely we must be careful that we handle the combination with care and respect. After a few days being careful about centering becomes natural, a part of the task.

Yes, my custom cabinet shop has CNC nested routers, which can do all the LR32 drilling of cabinet sides. If the hole arrangement is unusual and/or a particular side needs CNC attention for some other reason I use them for the shelf-pin holes. However, in the real world most cabinet sides only require ordinary LR32 holes. Frankly I can drill those as accurately and at lest cost using Holy rails and OF1010s. Mind you, since few of the cabinet makers working for me enjoy drilling these holes most weeks I do so about 3 hours daily. This is why I make such a big deal about how the OF1010 is so much less fatiguing than the OF1400. If you are DIY and only have an OF1400, then use it and enjoy it. Chances are you will not be drilling those holes for hours on end.

This week I have not drilled any holes because I am in Las Vegas participating in AWFS. I have taught CNC router classes Wednesday and today. Sometimes when good folks invest so much money in CNC machines we try to use them when they are not necessary or even the most efficient way to perform a task. These are the suggestions I offer when invited to teach CNC operations.

Do please enjoy your OF1010. That is a very handy router, just about ideal for the kind of tasks we grew up doing with 1/4" shank bits and a lot less than 1,000 watts of power. One of my early routers circa 1946 had 350 watts and weighed 19.5 pounds. By comparison that is more than the 2,200 watt OF2200 which only weighs @18 pounds depending on the base selected.