LS 130 on V-Groove Cedar Siding

[nkpaintingvt]

Hello!

I'm soon starting a project that involves sanding down a house with vertical V-groove cedar siding. The flat portions will be cake with my RO and ETS, but the V-grooves present a unique challenge.

I want to maintain their form and end up with crisp lines. The Vs aren't much more than 3/8" deep, and while the board spacing is uniform, I imagine there's some variation in thickness after the weathering. Does anyone have experience using the 90 degree sanding attachment on the LS130 in this context? Worth buying the sander for a whole house? Thoughts or alternatives?

Thanks for reading!

Noah

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[Shane Holland]

Welcome to the FOG.

The LS130 would likely work quite well. Note that the 90 degree pad is slightly rounded. You can adjust for that by folding and creasing the paper before you attach it. Or, you could make a custom pad.

[member=13337]Scott Burt[/member] would probably have some first hand experience with this exact application to share.

 

[nkpaintingvt]

Thanks Shane. Just watched Scott's video of what the LS130 can do, I look forward to hearing his opinion.

 

[semenza]

    As Shane said there is a small (very small) curve on the pad. But in looking at your siding picture I see that in most of the grooves there is a small gap at the joint. I would bet that the small curve and the small gap would counteract each other and negate any rounding at the 'V' groove joint.

    Also using an abrasive with a thinner backing will tighten up the curves effect.

Seth

 

[semenza]

And ..... welcome to the forum!  [smile]

Seth

 

[nkpaintingvt]

Thanks Shane!

I was also wondering about ease of control in that context. I saw Scott recommending two hands on it in his video, which leads me to believe it pulls a bit. I don't imagine it would have the tendency to rock side to side while sanding out the V. Thoughts?

 

[Brent Taylor]

I have and use the LS,  but I this application I would  use a detail scrapper first, then sand with a sanding block.  Maybe at the end use a machine.

 

[nkpaintingvt]

Thanks Brent. I considered a pull tool, but I figured that was bound to create tear out every once in a while. I suppose it's worth a try as a first step for material removal in an inconspicuous spot.

 

[Holmz]

What is in the house that you are sanding?
Paint may be better with one of those rotary cutters.

The depending on what is in the groves, your other option might be a scrapper.
Or scrapper and then sand.

 

[semenza]

Thanks Brent. I considered a pull tool, but I figured that was bound to create tear out every once in a while. I suppose it's worth a try as a first step for material removal in an inconspicuous spot.

    Sometimes two hands and sometimes one for the LS130. Because it moves straight back and forth it does take some practice to prevent it from walking. It won't be too hard to keep it from tilting in the 'V' groove  but it will not be automatic. Since the groove is very shallow compared to the sanders height. With  a little practice it shouldn't be any problem , but the LS130 is not a let the mind drift type of sander. You need to stay focused.

    I  there are some tips and a bit more info in my review  http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/ls130-ls-130-eq-review-duplex/

Seth

 

[leakyroof]

Thanks Brent. I considered a pull tool, but I figured that was bound to create tear out every once in a while. I suppose it's worth a try as a first step for material removal in an inconspicuous spot.

    Sometimes two hands and sometimes one for the LS130. Because it moves straight back and forth it does take some practice to prevent it from walking. It won't be too hard to keep it from tilting in the 'V' groove  but it will not be automatic. Since the groove is very shallow compared to the sanders height. With  a little practice it shouldn't be any problem , but the LS130 is not a let the mind drift type of sander. You need to stay focused.

    I  there are some tips and a bit more info in my review  http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-reviews/ls130-ls-130-eq-review-duplex/

Seth

. Yes Yoda of the LS130. - Wise you are with this Sander---Two hands and practice you must... [big grin]

 

[SS Teach]

I agree 100% with Seth on this. I have used my LS a lot and if you are not vigilant you will take off more then you wanted. There are times when you need both hands, but that being said, it sure makes the work easier and faster then hand sanding profiles. 

 

[Shane Holland]

I agree 100% with Seth on this. I have used my LS a lot and if you are not vigilant you will take off more then you wanted. There are times when you need both hands, but that being said, it sure makes the work easier and faster then hand sanding profiles.

You can use choice of grit to help with material removal rate. Being cedar, you will want to be careful not to get too aggressive with the grit.

 

[Scott B.]

Thanks Shane. Just watched Scott's video of what the LS130 can do, I look forward to hearing his opinion.

I do use the LS130 on milled and routed profiles like that. I don't recommend trying to edge through them with the rectangular base pad. Not easy to ride straight on edge. I would use the attachment in this photo. Per your picture, grit would be 100-120. Could finish at 150 depending on how far you go on the faces.

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[Scott B.]

Thanks Shane!

I was also wondering about ease of control in that context. I saw Scott recommending two hands on it in his video, which leads me to believe it pulls a bit. I don't imagine it would have the tendency to rock side to side while sanding out the V. Thoughts?

It definitely runs straight, very linear. Its a fast mover though, and cedar is soft. Two hands gives the best control of keeping it straight. Once you get to know it, it is definitely open to one handed use. Definitely varies with situation, which is what is cool about the LS. It jumps in on some situations where Rotexes and orbitals aren't ideal.

 

[nkpaintingvt]

Thanks for all the constructive responses guys, I'm going to buy it and give it a go. I'll follow up with a report in a few weeks.

Seth, many thanks for writing up that detailed review, I definitely feel like I know what the LS130 can and can't do.

Scott, thanks for your input as well. I have one last question - you recommend higher finish sanding grits than I generally see recommended for exterior circumstances. I noticed the same thing on Todd's deck article in FPM's fall 2013 issue where he said you guys sand decks to 150. I understand this may be necessary to eliminate aggressive sanding swirls, but I always thought sanding that high closes up the wood pores and begins to polish it. I'm sure you've adopted this practice for good reasons, but I'm having trouble understanding them. Could you elaborate on this please?

 

[Scott B.]

Scott, thanks for your input as well. I have one last question - you recommend higher finish sanding grits than I generally see recommended for exterior circumstances. I noticed the same thing on Todd's deck article in FPM's fall 2013 issue where he said you guys sand decks to 150. I understand this may be necessary to eliminate aggressive sanding swirls, but I always thought sanding that high closes up the wood pores and begins to polish it. I'm sure you've adopted this practice for good reasons, but I'm having trouble understanding them. Could you elaborate on this please?

Sure. I remember that article. The part you are referencing referred to low grit stripping of failed solid body coatings, and walking back up through the grits. On those decks, we always reapply a solid body (non penetrating) product (lately elastomeric coatings) so it is nice to smooth them right out, knowing the adhesion of the solids we put on. There is no formula that works across the board, it is always situational depending on species, condition, product and expectations (and budget). Often, 60 to 100 is just right. I think Todd probably mentioned 150 at that point in the article to cover the overall range. Its rare to go that high, and that is the highest we would probably ever need to go on a deck.

The pictures in the article were all ipe I think, so that may have been confusing. On exotic decks that will get penetrating oils, we rarely would go over 100g, and we do alot at 80 on the super hardwoods.

This photo is the type of solid body deck that we would strip at 60 and step back up to 150 with a high adhesion coating. Pretty profound home improvement for the customer to be able to go from an ugly flaking mess to something they can actually walk barefoot on without fear of splinters or coating carnage.

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[nkpaintingvt]

That makes sense, thanks for the clarification Scott!

 

[Shane Holland]

[not worthy] [member=13337]Scott Burt[/member]

Say howdy to Todd. Wicked cool!

 

[Grasshopper]

Wouldn't the RO90 with stacked interface pads do a good enough job getting in this groove (and save the OP from having to buy a new sander)?

I was on the path to by buy the LS 130 for a handrail job, but was recommended the stacked pads solution for my RO90 and it worked like a charm.