Made a huge mistake buying the CSC SYS 50, does a table extension exist?

[jpgodwin]

Hi everyone,

I made a critical error purchasing the CSC SYS 50 that is entirely my fault, but now it's too late to rectify the mistake, so I have to keep the saw. I misread the cross cutting capacity with the rip capacity, and was gutted to discover the rip capacity wasn't, in fact 400mm, but was only 280. This is entirely my fault, and I feel like an idiot.

The problem is that the saw is absolutely fantastic otherwise, so I really need to figure out a way to make it work for my needs. Does anyone know is Festool plan to release an accessory to extend the rip capacity, or, failing that, does a 3rd party table extension exist?

It seems like a pretty simple build, but I'd really rather buy something bespoke and not make it myself

Thanks!

 

[Packard]

A google search shows that there are extensions available.

 

[jpgodwin]

Could you link me? I can't find one anywhere. I can only see extensions for the crosscut fence.

 

[Packard]

I will do that.  I dont own this saw.  So much of this is new to me.

This oversize fence features an anti-tipping device for the stock.  It might work for some applications.  Fast forward to about 13 minutes to see that.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Is there a reason you can't use a track saw for rips wider than 280mm?

My personal opinion/workflow here, but I can't remember the last time I used a "traditional" table saw to rip anything. All ripping is performed at the band saw, on my 10' sliding table saw, or with a track saw.

I am not aware of any kind of table extension for the CSC-50, I'd suggest spending the money on a set of the TSO parallel guides for rips wider than 280mm......

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

[member=74278]Packard[/member],

I believe the OP (why does nobody use their actual name on forums anymore?) is looking for a solution for ripping stock wider than 280mm, not crosscutting.

 

[jpgodwin]

The max crosscut width is just over 400mm, but I want to rip cabinet sides at 600mm, there's no physical way to do it with the saw at it's current capacity, unfortunately.

Similarly, the crosscut capacity means I can't rip long lengths of board, either.

 

[jpgodwin]

Is there a reason you can't use a track saw for rips wider than 280mm?

My personal opinion/workflow here, but I can't remember the last time I used a "traditional" table saw to rip anything. All ripping is performed at the band saw, on my 10' sliding table saw, or with a track saw.

I am not aware of any kind of table extension for the CSC-50, I'd suggest spending the money on a set of the TSO parallel guides for rips wider than 280mm......

Are the TSO guides absolutely accurate for repeatable cuts in the same way a table saw is? I have a TS55, so that would solve the problem nicely

 

[Packard]

My bad.  They apparently were calling this work stand as the functional equivalent of a table extension.  The upright panel does support the material.  I would not call this a table extension though.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

The max crosscut width is just over 400mm, but I want to rip cabinet sides at 600mm, there's no physical way to do it with the saw at it's current capacity, unfortunately.

Similarly, the crosscut capacity means I can't rip long lengths of board, either.

The work you're describing lands solidly in the sweet spot of track saws and panel saws. The CSC-50 is best used for breaking down smaller stock, think face frame and cabinet door stiles/rails.

It has been my experience that the TSO parallel guides are solid. Accuracy/precision are up to individual standards. Some users are fine +/- 2mm, others are losing their minds chasing 0.1mm. In my experience, I could hit my intended measurement with the TSO guides +/0 0.5mm, and one board will be identical to the ones before- and after- it, assuming you're using good technique, a sharp blade, and you haven't changed the stops.

I'd suggest that the above beats most table saws, unless you're using a power feeder, sharp blades, proper in-feed/out-feed, etc...

 

[Peter Kelly]

Guido Henn just published a great video on a very simple setup for repeatable rip and cross cuts with a track saw and rail. It's in German but you get the gist pretty quickly even without subtitles on. The CSC would be ideal for anything smaller than this system would easily handle.


If you're going to go the parallel guide route, I can recommend the Benchdogs ones:https://benchdogs.co.uk/products/330mm-parallel-guide-system-festool-makita

 

[jpgodwin]

Beautiful, thanks very much, Tom, I'll make the purchase.

Appreciate the fast replies everyone, much appreciated.

Ps. Peter - I did see the Benchdogs one, I'll look that, too. I already have their fence system, which is great

 

[Packard]

[member=74278]Packard[/member],

I believe the OP (why does nobody use their actual name on forums anymore?) is looking for a solution for ripping stock wider than 280mm, not crosscutting.

Ah, got it.

I originally bought my track saw to size panels for easy carry to my basement-located table saw where I would make the final cuts to dimension.  However, I found that I can cut panels with sufficient accuracy with the track saw to create finished sized panels without the use of a table saw at all.  Not only is it easier, the cuts are cleaner thanks to the anti-splinter strip on the track. 

Right angle guide (I have TSO’s which is very good) is very useful for accomplishing this.  It has, to a great extent, made my radial arm saw expendable. 

I have mentioned this in the past, but I have no use for a table saw that requires that I do math to make finished cuts.  It is why I ordered my saw with a 48” fence. 

I looked at the Festool saw when it first came out.  If I were in the market for a portable saw, I probably would go for the DeWalt.  The artificial parameter of fitting in a Systainer requires too many compromises.  I do wonder what a Festool table saw would look like if it were allowed to use an oversized Systainer. 

I own a mini-van and perhaps that alters what I see as “portable”.

 

[Peter Kelly]

Beautiful, thanks very much, Tom, I'll make the purchase.

Appreciate the fast replies everyone, much appreciated.

Ps. Peter - I did see the Benchdogs one, I'll look that, too. I already have their fence system, which is great

Peter Millard reviewed these recently. Love mine.

 

[Packard]

Guido Henn just published a great video on a very simple setup for repeatable rip and cross cuts with a track saw and rail. It's in German but you get the gist pretty quickly even without subtitles on. The CSC would be ideal for anything smaller than this system would easily handle.


If you're going to go the parallel guide route, I can recommend the Benchdogs ones:https://benchdogs.co.uk/products/330mm-parallel-guide-system-festool-makita

Peter,

I watched the video, and while I still have a fully equipped shop and probably would not work as he has, I found it informative.

Amusingly, it appears he is working above some variation of the Black & Decker Workmate.  Amusing to me, as I still use mine (which are over 30 years old).  I don’t recognize the blue controls on that workmate though. 

 

[guybo]

does a 3rd party table extension exist

Hi, many have done this to increase capacity of festool saws and router tables,its pricey but works wellhttps://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/it's-finally-here-the-precision-plate-for-incra-positioners!!/ andhttps://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/incra-ls-positioner-or-cs70la-wixey-dr700/msg534198/#msg534198

 

[Peter Kelly]

Guido Henn just published a great video on a very simple setup for repeatable rip and cross cuts with a track saw and rail. It's in German but you get the gist pretty quickly even without subtitles on. The CSC would be ideal for anything smaller than this system would easily handle.


If you're going to go the parallel guide route, I can recommend the Benchdogs ones:https://benchdogs.co.uk/products/330mm-parallel-guide-system-festool-makita

Peter,

I watched the video, and while I still have a fully equipped shop and probably would not work as he has, I found it informative.

Amusingly, it appears he is working above some variation of the Black & Decker Workmate.  Amusing to me, as I still use mine (which are over 30 years old).  I don’t recognize the blue controls on that workmate though.

Wolfcraft and Bosch still sell versions of the Workmate in Germany.https://www.bauhaus.info/arbeitstische/wolfcraft-master-spann-arbeitstisch-master-200/p/11144037

 

[mino]

...
It has been my experience that the TSO parallel guides are solid. Accuracy/precision are up to individual standards. Some users are fine +/- 2mm, others are losing their minds chasing 0.1mm. In my experience, I could hit my intended measurement with the TSO guides +/0 0.5mm, and one board will be identical to the ones before- and after- it, assuming you're using good technique, a sharp blade, and you haven't changed the stops.

I'd suggest that the above beats most table saws, unless you're using a power feeder, sharp blades, proper in-feed/out-feed, etc...

I would add that one could get reliable 0.1mm accuracy for standard-size rips with the TSO PGs by just ignoring the scales and using a couple of reference sticks to set the stops.

How this works is one would:
1) calibrate one of the stops as usual
2) measure the distance between the flip stop and the back of the rail
3) cut a narrow piece from some stock to the measured length
4) repeat 3) for all standard-width rips one expects to do
5) for actual rips, ignore the scales and just use the referrence sticks (properly marked) to place the flip stops
6) enjoy repeatable

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

...
It has been my experience that the TSO parallel guides are solid. Accuracy/precision are up to individual standards. Some users are fine +/- 2mm, others are losing their minds chasing 0.1mm. In my experience, I could hit my intended measurement with the TSO guides +/0 0.5mm, and one board will be identical to the ones before- and after- it, assuming you're using good technique, a sharp blade, and you haven't changed the stops.

I'd suggest that the above beats most table saws, unless you're using a power feeder, sharp blades, proper in-feed/out-feed, etc...

I would add that one could get reliable 0.1mm accuracy for standard-size rips with the TSO PGs by just ignoring the scales and using a couple of reference sticks to set the stops.

How this works is one would:
1) calibrate one of the stops as usual
2) measure the distance between the flip stop and the back of the rail
3) cut a narrow piece from some stock to the measured length
4) repeat 3) for all standard-width rips one expects to do
5) for actual rips, ignore the scales and just use the referrence sticks (properly marked) to place the flip stops
6) enjoy repeatable

 

[luvmytoolz]

I had to do this with the old saw I had ages back, I just clamped an MDF sheet larger than the rip size needed to the table, and clamped a fence to the sheet, then raised the saw blade up through it. Worked a treat. If you want the riving knife attached, just run the sheet through the blade and shift a fraction over for clearance, and then clamp the sheet to the table.