Mafell P1cc Jigsaw

[Holmz]

Thanks [member=40772]Holmz[/member] Your like a mad scientist, I enjoy your posts but don't always understand them.

You and me both brutha.

 

[hemdale]

Do you guys got the Collins coping too ?

 

[Holmz]

Yes - but I have not had a need for it yet.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Do you guys got the Collins coping too ?

I have the Collins Coping Foot for my P1cc and LOVE it! For the work I do (mostly interior millwork), I actually end up using the coping foot at least as much, if not more, than the standard base. A worthwhile investment if you plan on coping a lot of millwork.

 

[GhostFist]

Tom, wasn't it you who got Collins to make the p1cc foot? If so thanx I finally picked one up for myself

 

[hemdale]

@ Tom + Ghost: I'm guessing you can't have the splinter guard installed while using the coping foot ?
Did you notice any splinter issues ?

 

[Wuffles]

Do I need* one of these coping feet for my P1CC? I'm skirting my extension next week with around 80 metres of this stuff: http://www.dressermouldings.com/store/timber-skirtings/type-36a-timber-skirting.html

I normally just "manage" with a smaller blade and some luck - will this improve things once I've got my head around the technique?

*We all understand the varying levels of need here, I'm talking actual need, not kind of vaguely need.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

I can't comment on using the coping foot as I haven't used yet I have used my p1cc to cope similar skirting and I honestly didn't find it quicker for myself than just using the coping saw on moulded part. It felt more like using a power tool for the sake of it. Maybe different on much larger moulding. For myself it doesn't feel like a purchase I need ye other who have used might think different

 

[Wuffles]

I'm painting it too, so the butchery gets hidden  [smile]

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

@ Tom + Ghost: I'm guessing you can't have the splinter guard installed while using the coping foot ?
Did you notice any splinter issues ?

When coping with the Coping Foot, you hold the saw on the back side of the material so the blade is cutting on the pull stroke, so any chips or tear out occur on the back side of the work, leaving a very crisp, sharp face.

One mistake a lot of users make is to try to use a fine toothed blade for coping with the Coping Foot. It may sound counterintuitive, but my best results have been with rather aggressive blades, as they tend to be more stout and can stand up to tighter turns. Again, remember that any chipping will occur on the back side of the work.

Ghostfist, you are correct that I had my P1cc shipped directly to Collins for them to develop the coping foot for it, I'm glad that it's being well received!

Wuffles, nobody really "needs" a Coping Foot, but if you are making more than a cope or two, I've found it to be a HUGE time saver, particularly on large crown moulding, or when working with hard or dense materials like Maple. Plan on a dozen or so copes to get the hang of using the Coping Foot, but after that time investment it will speed up your work tremendously.

 

[Wuffles]

@ Tom + Ghost: I'm guessing you can't have the splinter guard installed while using the coping foot ?
Did you notice any splinter issues ?

When coping with the Coping Foot, you hold the saw on the back side of the material so the blade is cutting on the pull stroke, so any chips or tear out occur on the back side of the work, leaving a very crisp, sharp face.

One mistake a lot of users make is to try to use a fine toothed blade for coping with the Coping Foot. It may sound counterintuitive, but my best results have been with rather aggressive blades, as they tend to be more stout and can stand up to tighter turns. Again, remember that any chipping will occur on the back side of the work.

Ghostfist, you are correct that I had my P1cc shipped directly to Collins for them to develop the coping foot for it, I'm glad that it's being well received!

Wuffles, nobody really "needs" a Coping Foot, but if you are making more than a cope or two, I've found it to be a HUGE time saver, particularly on large crown moulding, or when working with hard or dense materials like Maple. Plan on a dozen or so copes to get the hang of using the Coping Foot, but after that time investment it will speed up your work tremendously.

Righto. I normally trace on the back side and jigsaw from there to avoid tear out on the front and also (more importantly) to give myself a flat something to draw on and cut through.

I reckon I'll give it a miss this time and perhaps have a go on one in the future at a trade show or something and see if it's my thing.

Cheers for the info.

 

[hemdale]

Hi everyone,

Just received my P1CC a few days ago and absolutely love it. Only complaint: tilt base has no dust extraction which is a bit weird.

Also when cutting holes or circles, which hole of the lateral arm are you using ? Maffell's manual isn't clear.

Thanks guys

 

[Wuffles]

Hi everyone,

Just received my P1CC a few days ago and absolutely love it. Only complaint: tilt base has no dust extraction which is a bit weird.

Also when cutting holes or circles, which hole of the lateral arm are you using ? Maffell's manual isn't clear.

Thanks guys

The one in-line with the front of the blade? Can't remember, not come a cropper on it though.

This'll send you back to sleep but might help:

 

[hemdale]

Thanks mate

 

[jmac80]

I see screwfix in the UK have just started selling mafell gear.

 

[Wuffles]

At a hilarious price point?

 

[jmac80]

At a hilarious price point?

Amazingly competitive for a change... everyone must sell mafell gear at pretty much rrp?

 

[Wuffles]

I got a discount for having a hairline crack in a systainer on something Mafelly once.

 

[ear3]

I want to hire this guy to read me bedtime stories.  Sorry if this has already been asked and answered in this thread, but can the Mafell jigsaw ride the Festool rail?

Hi everyone,

Just received my P1CC a few days ago and absolutely love it. Only complaint: tilt base has no dust extraction which is a bit weird.

Also when cutting holes or circles, which hole of the lateral arm are you using ? Maffell's manual isn't clear.

Thanks guys

The one in-line with the front of the blade? Can't remember, not come a cropper on it though.

This'll send you back to sleep but might help:

 

[hemdale]

@ edward reno: the P1cc can't ride the festool rail because of the very thin rail being specific to Mafell.

However, the P1cc will slide next to the mafell / festool rail: