Make a perfect "MFT" with Qwas raildogs

sgryd

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Joined
May 14, 2007
Messages
362
I'd like to share an idea that turned out really well.

I actually ordered my table top at a CNC-shop to get the holes dead straight. But I withdraw my order when I came up with this idea. The CNC was quite expensive as well. The saved money got me the holy rail system.

Here is the idea:
1. Cut your MFT top with dead straight corners and oversize it about a feet in each direction.
2. Route two rows of 20mm holes with the holy rail. With a little care it's easy to get the two rows exactly parallel
3. Use Qwas rail dogs to position the rail between the two rows.
4. Route away..
5. Cut to target size using the holes as reference

This image show the two rows. I oiled my MDF before cutting the holes.
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Qwas rail dog mounted
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Mid ways
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Dead straight
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Ultimate test: Put Qwas dogs through your new holes into a real MFT
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I cut the table to nearly target size. After reading a post here about boards not being straight after the first cut I'm not taking chances. I'll cut it to exact size later.
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//Michael
 
Wow! Awesome results! Your tests certainly prove the accuracy of the method.

What type of oil?

Seth
 
Nice job on the top, well done.  [thumbs up]

Great job with the whole cart. I'm jealous of your vise and being able to move it. I hope you enjoy the cart for many years.  [smile]
 
That is outstanding.  Which bit did you use?  And did it give you a snug fit with the Qwas dogs?
 
Qwas dogs fits perfectly. They actually fit better than in my MFT for one reason - oiling before routing holes.

I oiled and polished my MFT's. The surface is great, but the edges of the holes are not as crisp any more. By oiling before routing the holes I got perfectly crisp holes and that seems to hold the Qwas dogs even better than my MFT does.

The bit I used is Cobolt 303-120
Cobolt 303-120
 
I actually don't know what oil. It's a wax oil that I buy from a furniture store. It's branded by the store and it says nothing on the can but the store name. I've used the same oil for 10 years on my kitchen benches and tables.

I wanted a durable surface on the MFT. At first I tried a couple of layers of Osmo hard wax oil. But I don't think this is suitable for MDF surfaces. It's too flat. The Osmo oil seems impossible to get even, i.e. without marks from the brush. Osmo oil says on the can that it shouldn't be diluted. I love the Osmo on Birch ply though.

I turned the top over so the Osmo surface is now the underside. The wax oil was way easier to work with on MDF. I suppose one down side is that this really is an oil surface, so it will eventually evaporate and I have to oil it again. The beauty of Osmo hard wax is that it doesn't evaporate over time as regular oil.

Did this make sense?

//Michael
 
That was really great sgryd.  (I have a little trouble pronouncing your name though.)  I was thinking that on your last cutting of the table down to size you could use the router with a straight cutting bit, the guide and rail dogs again.  That way the holes on all four sides would be the exact same distance from the edge (as mine seem to be-about 61mm) and the grid would be perfectly squared up with the sides.
 
Thanks.
sgryd is just a random alias. Michael is my name. I try to remember to type it out, but forget sometimes. Sorry.

I actually cut the edges with the TS55, but I used the Qwas dogs as reference, so I got a perfectly square top with edges matching the hole pattern. This means that I can put a fence along the outer edge, which is a good way to extend the maximum cut width.
 
This has to be one of the best methods I have seen on the FOG to date!

[thanks] for sharing
 
Michael (sgryd),

Thanks for sharing your project.  It's an inspiration.  How did you attach the top to the extrusions?  Did you do anything to make certain that the holes are absolutely parallel and perpendicular to the extrusions?
 
The top is attached with screws and T-nuts from above. Before tightening the screws I used a caliper to fit the top exactly centered and straight. I could have made a spacer block to make this fit more exact. The precision is not super important regarding this as I'll reference everything against the edge of the top when I use the outer T-slot for jigs etc.

The top frame is made of 45x90 extrusions. The screws and T-nuts goes into the inner track, and the outer track is free for jigs etc. I use the 90 degree mounting brackets for referencing my rail against. I'll add a steel plate to those and mount magnets on the guide rail. That way the guide rail will be drawn to the reference (with a "click") and I think that will secure it from accidental movement while sawing.
 
Thanks for the explanation.  The magnets are a stroke of genius.  It would be great if you could post some photos of that setup.  I might have to incorporate something like that in my MFT/sysports that I'm about to start building.  I plan to take photos through the process and share them.
 
stroke of genius
Well, actually.. I'd like to think so myself [embarassed]. I have a number of ideas involving magnets. Regarding magnets in a MFT setup I even thought about patenting something, but I decided that I don't have time for it. I'll play along in my little shop and I'm happy to share my ideas here. I'm currently trying out different setups. When I arrive at the final solution I'll share. If anyone do pick them up and are making mucho dollares, please keep me in mind =)

But right now, the magnet-thing is on hold due to my router-table-build. I'm not satisfied with my PRL-V2 lift. I think my new solution will be a blast. A bit more costly, but I have decided against the will of my wallet.

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hmm.. Shane, are you listening?
How about putting me in contact with someone at your R/D department. I actually think I have a great idea for the MFT. I'd rather see Festool patenting this than one of the *others*.

//Michael
 
Thanks.  I hope I'm not being a pest, but I'm also curious about how you attached the boards on which you mounted your drawer slides.  They're obviously attached somehow to the extrusions, but I couldn't tell how from your photos.  Like your station, mine will have a divider with drawers mounted on both sides, so I presumably need to mount two boards back to back there; on each of the ends, I'll need only a single board.
 
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