Make your own domino tenon? What bit?

IrishPsych

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Anyone know what imperial round over or metric bit, that's available in the states, I can use to make my own domino tenons?

The Woodpecker bits are too $$$.

I can't conceptualize the math in imperial size round over bits that will work for 8mm or 10mm dominoes.

UJK has an interesting bit I'll probably settle on, just seeing what others do.

I want to make my own so I can do through / exposed dominoes.
 
I have made some 8mm dominos in white oak using imperial round-over bits. Worked fine.

The important dimension in dominos is the thickness. The edges just need to fit in the mortice.

Bob
 
Anyone know what imperial round over or metric bit, that's available in the states, I can use to make my own domino tenons?

The Woodpecker bits are too $$$.

I can't conceptualize the math in imperial size round over bits that will work for 8mm or 10mm dominoes.

UJK has an interesting bit I'll probably settle on, just seeing what others do.

I want to make my own so I can do through / exposed dominoes.
There are alternatives. A 5/16" round over bit will fit 8mm just fine. It's so close, that you would need a micrometer, to see the difference.
3/8" is pretty close to 10mm, for this purpose, close enough.
The issue is with routing the second edge. This is much better done with a router table. Then you can isolate the bearing, with the fence.
The Woodpeckers or findbuytool are much quicker. It only takes one pass, per side.
 
I’ve use other UJK bits recently and thought they are really high quality. I’ve not used the loose tenon ones, but can’t imagine that they are any different.


 
One thing I like about actual dominoes is that the faces have a pattern that enables glue retention during insertion. These edge profile bits don’t provide that.
 
The Whitehill knives I'd linked to have serrations in the profile. I've also made my own 14mm tenons using a 1/2" bullnose cutter and the fit wasn't an issue. Screenshot 2025-09-18 at 3.21.18 pm.png
 
@P_K I'm pretty sure that @smorgasbord it referring to the faces, not the edges.
The grooves, in the edges, are there to prevent hydro-lock. The faces have a pressed texture, to hold some glue against the sides.
It would definitely add to the time it takes to make them, but it wouldn't be hard to mill some grooves, in the faces.
A simple pointed bit, like an engraving bit or a bearing-less round over, and a router table could do that easily.
 
It would definitely add to the time it takes to make them, but it wouldn't be hard to mill some grooves, in the faces.
A simple pointed bit, like an engraving bit or a bearing-less round over, and a router table could do that easily.
I use a finger joint bit to cut 1mm deep grooves on the faces of the tenons I make.
 

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I wonder if a press to compress the fibers to form the pattern would be even better, as then the glue would swell them back up.
Funny you mention that!

I use the attached wire stripping machine to recover copper from cabling, and when I started making my own tenons in bulk, I bought another machine thinking if I replaced the rollers with a couple of steel rollers I machined, I could then feed the strips through before they're cut to length.

Just have to get the time on the lathe and mill to machine them, but they're low on the priority list.

I do have a 10t flypress and tried stamping them, but I just didn't find it practical for anything but small amounts. The results weren't all that fantastic either. Thinking more about it, I didn't try a pneumatic press, that might be a goer. I have a couple of large pistons for wood clamping......hmmmm! ;-)
 

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