Making Domino drawer boxes with the Domiplate.

[Kev]

Alright, maybe it's just me, but, I just completed cabinets for our kitchen and used DT's for all the drawers and don't think they are over rated (even trash pull outs and pantry drawers). I'm a hobbyist and don't make lots of DT's but once you are set up it doesn't take much time to cut the DT's in many drawers. Especially if you use a DT jig to clamp the pieces for the Dominos you might as well cut DT's. I have a Domino and might consider using this method for a few drawers for a shop cabinet but in the house and especially in the kitchen I think the DT's give it a more finished, elegent, and hand crafted look. To me it's like the difference between plywood flat panel doors and solid hardwood raised panel doors.

Mike

Good dovetails are a thing of beauty ... they need to be crisp and tight (just like yours).

On the other hand - sloppy dovetails look disgusting!

A bit of a complication, but I'd love to see dominoes inserted at a slight angle zig zagging (thickness of ends permitting). You'd certainly need to do this with a single plunge.

The DomiWedge?

 

[sancho57]

Interesting thing happened today. I was at a local Woodcraft for a festool demo was talking to the rep and in walked this guy carrying a domiplate. he asked the rep if he saw one before the rep said yes and they guy whent on to talk about how much easier it made his domino life.

he said he wasn't a FOG memeber or visited here, he found the plate by googling domino (or something like that).

I got to see it up close and personal. Looks like a well made accessory.

Anyway, just thought this was a interesting story

 

[mouppe]

Following on from the ideas in this thread, I adapted a dovetail jig to enable the easy mortising of "domidrawers." I made a video rather than take photos, and added some basic details about drawer joinery in case any newbies are interested. It's pretty simple but effective.

A simple jig for using the Festool domino when making drawer joinery

 

[sancho57]

Have ya'll seen this one yet, pt 1 of 2

Building a Drawer with Domino and MGS Guide Part 1 of 2

 

[Rocky]

Question....if you have a dovetail jig, couldn't you clamp your drawer pieces in it and instead of using a router, use the domino?

 

[Trosey]

Question....if you have a dovetail jig, couldn't you clamp your drawer pieces in it and instead of using a router, use the domino?

Yes

 

[erock]

Sure you could use the dovetail jig with the domino.  But why?

But if you have a DOMIPLATE it makes the process so much faster. 

You would be saving a lot of time if you just use the DOMIPLATE.  I tried to use my dovetail jig with the DOMIPLATE, but setting up the work piece in the

dovetail jig took to long. 

The DOMIPLATE is bad to the bone baby!!!  Everyone who has a domino should have one  [big grin]

Eric

 

[fperra]

Bringing an old thread back to life. I just made two large drawers today using your method. They came out great. Thanks for the posting. [smile]

 

[CrazyLarry]

I agree with these concerns - it would be better for the doms to be put in parallel to the front face of the drawer so that the pulling action does not strain the dom joint.

Peter

Yes, that's have it's intended to be done.

Which also lends itself to having a drawer front, as parallel doms would need sides over lapping front / back not the other way around revealing the joint rather than the through tenons, definitely the stronger option though.

 

[Stone Message]

I agree with these concerns - it would be better for the doms to be put in parallel to the front face of the drawer so that the pulling action does not strain the dom joint.

Peter

Yes, that's have it's intended to be done.

Which also lends itself to having a drawer front, as parallel doms would need sides over lapping front / back not the other way around revealing the joint rather than the through tenons, definitely the stronger option though.

Since my post, nearly 3 years ago, I have done some experimenting with drawers made using the Domino. I have used the technique to make drawer boxes but also to make drawers without the added complication of a separate front. They have all worked out really well and I have now used the technique on the solid walnut TV cabinet and I have every confidence that the drawers will outlast me. I am not going to make drawer boxes with a separate front again.

The drawers are shown in the second video in this FOG thread:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/tv-or-hifi-cabinet-with-push-to-open-drawers/

Peter

 

[Paul G]

Anyone try this yet in 1/2" ply?

 

[Don Ashley]

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

Anyone try this yet in 1/2" ply?

I used a combination of 1/2 and 3/4" baltic birch for my kitchen drawers.  The ones with applied faces were all 1/2".  The pull-out kind that were behind cabinet doors had a 3/4" face with a small rabbet for the sides.  I used the regular dominos and they had quite a bit of contrast with the birch. I used water base poly so the birch stayed light.

They are rock solid even with a very heavy handed 18yo son.
I used a 24g pinner to put them together before doing thru dominos with a domiplate. A very tiny rabbet in the side pieces helped with registration as I pin nailed them. I used a 1400 to clean off the leftover dominos.

Heather

 

[moody]

And yes.  That is BLAKLADER vest and pants I have on.  I freakin' love the Blaklader vest!  Buy one of those too!!! 
Thanks for looking. 

Eric

As a Swede it always makes me smile when I read or hear "BLAKLADER"! There's an old Swedish TV-commercial, I think it's about 15 years old by now, that explains why:

"Workwear from Blaklader, kids from America". Extreme testing.

 

[jacko9]

While I have used my DF500 for smaller thru M&T joints, the DF700 with the 8mm cutter (and soon to be purchased 6mm cutter from Seneca) will add a lot more flexibility to the design capability.  I just used the 8mm cutter to re-enforce a leg to apron joint after assembly with Sipo thur tenons (mostly for decorative purposes).  Both machines add a lot in joint selection.

Jack

 

[fdeloncker]

I have done 4mm through tenons for these thin walled boxes, approx 1/2". I made about 20 of them and they have held up in these window units for a couple years now.

keep in mind the 4mm tenon bit is much shorter than the 5, etc.. I was disappointed when it arrived as I had ordered it and the tenons for this one job.

 

[jacko9]

[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]

Anyone try this yet in 1/2" ply?

I used a combination of 1/2 and 3/4" baltic birch for my kitchen drawers.  The ones with applied faces were all 1/2".  The pull-out kind that were behind cabinet doors had a 3/4" face with a small rabbet for the sides.  I used the regular dominos and they had quite a bit of contrast with the birch. I used water base poly so the birch stayed light.

They are rock solid even with a very heavy handed 18yo son.
I used a 24g pinner to put them together before doing thru dominos with a domiplate. A very tiny rabbet in the side pieces helped with registration as I pin nailed them. I used a 1400 to clean off the leftover dominos.

Heather

Heather,

Great idea to use the pinner for registration.  I put drawers together but used a lot of clamps to keep things in place (while my pinned was sitting in a box).

Nice drawers.

Jack