Making windows and doors WIP

Rob

That small pointy window you did reminds me of a frame i made with the 10mm x 50mm dominoes but also screwed with stainless steel screws.  Really strong once all together.

 
That Sir is QUALITY!

It encompasses the 5 P's.
Patience, Practice, Professionalism with shed loads of Prior Preparation!  ;D

Both jobs look cracking, thanks for posting them.

regards Rob.
 
Woodguy

Thats is serious dedication and commitment.

I dont think I would cut a hole in my workshop ceiling to fit in the frame!! [big grin] [big grin] [tongue]

 
Cheers lads

Yea, the ceiling hatch took me out of the poo a bit.  I can use a friends barn for larger stuff but i do like to do most of it at my own place.  I keep all my hardwood, jigs & loads of other stuff up there.  I have a small door in the gable for passing long lengths up into the attic.

Just started an oak stair yesterday so i am going to start a new thread showing the W.I.P so far.

Cheers, Woodguy.
 
i used sipo's on some round windows for the first time , worked out fine and loads quicker than hammer heads :)
 
none on the conservatory , i wouldn't use it on something this big, that's just my opinion mind  ! plus i didn't have the domino then :(
 
Ken Nagrod said:
woodguy,

tell me about the double top hinge in the pictures

What is their to tell?!    He has put two hinges at the top for strength! As its a heavy door. To stop the door pulling over.

I was working on this job and this guy only fitted two hinges on internal oak doors.  Well you could see the doors had pulled out at the top and they where almost catching at the top on the frame. To be fair the hinges where also to small and cheap their was to much play in them I thought.  Glad I wasn't involved with that.

JMB

 
Never seen that before.  Is that an regionally specific kind of thing, using a double hinge close to each other?
 
Ken Nagrod said:
Never seen that before.  Is that an regionally specific kind of thing, using a double hinge close to each other?

Hi, Ken.  I've seen it recommended (and done it) for Soss hinges, but without knowing why.  Makes sense for any kind of hinge, I guess, but I'd never have thought about it until you'd asked and jmbfestool answered.  Thanks, guys.

BTW, this page knocks my socks off.  Very impressive, very humbling, all of it.

Regards,

John
 
Well, I gotta say, for rectangular butt hinges on a door, I've never seen, heard, done or been taught that before.  It even looks weird, although I'm not passing any kind of judgement.  I was taught to use the appropriate size hinge, amount of hinges (example 2, 3, 4, etc., spaced like 7" down from top, center and 11" from the bottom) and the correct size screws securing the hinge into the trimmer stud and whatever "meat" was in the make up of the door.  Hinges come in a variety of sizes, thicknesses, bearings, bushed, no bushings or bearings - weight rated and appropriate for the application.

That's how I learned it and this is a whole new thing for me.  Definitely a topic I will be throwing around "the old crowd" to get their take on it.  Thanks for showing me this and I'd definitely be interested in anything else you guys have that's been done for years that may be out of the norm, at least to Americans.

[thanks]
 
Rob,

Nice work and thanks for uploading some construction pics...how do you find working with two edge guides for mortises/grooves with the OF2200?  I have been going back and forth with this option verses the Plexiglass Routing Aid -- I am attending the router class next month and hope to try it out, but the two edge guides is certainly a less expensive way to go.  Appreciate your feedback.

Scot
 
ScotF said:
Rob,

Nice work and thanks for uploading some construction pics...how do you find working with two edge guides for mortises/grooves with the OF2200?  I have been going back and forth with this option verses the Plexiglass Routing Aid -- I am attending the router class next month and hope to try it out, but the two edge guides is certainly a less expensive way to go.  Appreciate your feedback.

Scot

Thanks Scot, using two guides has been the way I have used the router for years, it has become habit.  [big grin]
I use them for mortising newel posts, door locks and of course for mortises for doors etc. As I am happy with the system I bought a second guide with the OF2200.
Set up is easy just mark the width and position on the workpiece, line the bit up to the marks and slide the fences in position. Tighten up and make a very light cut to check nothing has moved.
Cut the mortises by making a series of plunge cuts, once you have got to depth with the first couple of plunges, cut the rest by using about a third of the diameter of the bit cutting fresh wood, it goes much quicker with less strain on the router and bit, quieter too! Square the ends with a couple of wacks of suitable chisel, job done.
Have fun at the router class, let us know how you got on. [smile]
Rob.
 
Wonderwino said:
Great looking work!  I have not seen many doors with the double upper hinge in the US.

I've not seen many here in the UK either, but it is used on particularly heavy doors. The only place I can remember seeing it is in the local hospital, where every door is hinged like this.

I don't think it's used a lot in residential properties ,mainly for (I guess) aesthetic reasons.

+1 on the great work!
 
i know the 4" hinges i use at work say to put middle hinge 150-200mm down from top hinge if over a certain weight. I always do them like that but thats because i am working on comercial buildings with fire doors. When i have done domestic doors that are more weighty 57mm thick i use 4 hingers the the top 2 are still close together to take the weight
 
Well Ken, it looks others have answered your question, it is for weight.  That particular door is 56mm thick oak with oak linings front & back.  Incredibly heavy, takes 2 men to hang it.  The hinges are 100mm stainless steel ball bearing so they operate really smooth on a door of this weight.

Pierreblonde, that's a nice looking conservatory.  Did you build it or are you assembling it ?

Cheers, Woodguy
 
John Stevens said:
Ken Nagrod said:
Never seen that before.  Is that an regionally specific kind of thing, using a double hinge close to each other?

Hi, Ken.  I've seen it recommended (and done it) for Soss hinges, but without knowing why.  Makes sense for any kind of hinge, I guess, but I'd never have thought about it until you'd asked and jmbfestool answered.  Thanks, guys.

BTW, this page knocks my socks off.  Very impressive, very humbling, all of it.

Regards,

John

Yeah seen that before doubled at the top with soss!  I done couple doors with them!  They are well expensive hinges!  £100 a hinge for the big ones! I removed 18 from this house! They where going to be thrown away! Then it was decided he wanted some secret doors fitting to his bathroom and walk through wardrobe! So they came in handy then!

JMB
 
woodguy7 said:
Well Ken, it looks others have answered your question, it is for weight.  That particular door is 56mm thick oak with oak linings front & back.  Incredibly heavy, takes 2 men to hang it.  The hinges are 100mm stainless steel ball bearing so they operate really smooth on a door of this weight.

Pierreblonde, that's a nice looking conservatory.  Did you build it or are you assembling it ?

Cheers, Woodguy

Woodguy
Assemble it !!!! How very dare you ! Only joking ....builder it, and run every moulding. I made it out of Idigbo it was the first
time I had used it , I haven't got any pics of when I was making it. Only a couple off making the cove on a saw bench , I always start with " I'm going to take photos of this job!!" then it just goes out my head ! And I bet you've done just the same ?
 
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