MAKITA LS 1016

[nehardwoodfloors]

Unloading my tools only to realize that my tailgate had fallen open!

Goodbye Bosch 4410  [scared]

So I bought the makita 1016.
Very smooth. The bearings are not choppy as some have found. No run out either!
Guess I got a good one. All adjustments are spot on too  [eek]

Both saws have horrible dust collection. But so far the makita wins out. Why? It's so damn light compared to the Bosch. I mean I could barely carry that thing through doorways without hitting the casings. The makita is like carrying a 12 inch non slider!
What a difference for those of us that don't use miter stands!

Also love the non battery powered laser!

So far I'm very very happy with the makita. Just wish they could come out with a dust condom to improve the dust collection.
One other minor gripe is that you have to purchase the extension wings separately.

 

[VictorL]

I had LS1016. It's a good saw. But I've got used Kapex too. I see a difference now. Kapex is much lighter. Double lasers, smaller footprint, better dust collection. Unfortunately it won't survive truck drop too

Regards,
VictorL

 

[mohrab]

Bought one this spring from HD.  Couldn't get the fence to align at 90 degrees to blade.  When I removed the fence - discovered it was badly warped and actually improved when fastened down.  Returned it and bought a Kapex.

 

[nehardwoodfloors]

Ive made a dust condom out of an old yoga matte(my wifes) [embarassed]

And ive made double lasers with the ls1016. I am very happy with it and used the saved money for a ro90!!!

No sloppy bearings and I love the smaller motor area w/o the monster belt, plastic cover  [big grin]

 

[Julian Tracy]

The Dewalt saws get no love, but I've been happy with my 12" 618 slider.  For a 12" slider, it's lightweight at about 55lbs, and instead of a laser, they've got an LED light system that casts a shadow from the blade onto the wood you are cutting.  No alignment, no fussing, it just works.  Added bonus, if you're working into the end of the day, instead of having to setup some lights or hang a battery lantern near your saw to see, you have built in work lighting. 

Even in daylight, I've found that with a quick shadow from your hand you can see it enough to align your mark and go.

One handy feature of the Dewalt is the ability to remove the fence and put on a simple sub-fence to allow a full 16 1/8" crosscutting capacity.  Of course I don't need it now that I have an MFT, but I have done so and I'm not sure that any other saw can match that capability.

Funny thing is, no matter the brand of saw being discussed, someone chimes in that they saw it in the store and it had 1/8"-1/4" of head deflection.  I've heard that same comment about the Kapex, the Dewalt, the Makita, etc.  Must be the same strong arm guy wacking out worn out display saws.

Most folks have no idea that just about all of these saws allow the clearances on the rails to be adjusted to whatever you consider perfect in terms of slide vs. tightness.

Obviously, you shouldn't have to fuss with them too much, but the fact remains a miter saw on the jobsite, ANY saw, will require some tweaking after a year or so of use.  So most folks unhappy with their saws could probably get the ones they own back to a new condition with just a bit of adjustment.

But hey, I'm no different from the next guy, I like a shiny new tool as much as much as anyone.

Lasers are over rated though, shadow cut lines rock!

One other note.  How many folks here are judging run-out from the blade?  The only way to truly assess an arbor runout is to check the arbor shaft itself.  I'm pretty sure the guy here leaving his saw out in the rain is probably not using blades that cost $70-100.  And I wouldn't be surprised if the $45 crapola blades a lot of folks buy have run-out just from the cheap steel they're stamped or cut from.

Amazing how people look at blades as expendable??  A blade is not an expendable to buy, use and then throw out.  You Kapex owners know that for sure.  You buy a couple three good blades and rotate them on a use/sharpening schedule and don't need to buy another for 3-4 years.

The guys that keep buying $45 blades and then throwing them out when they crap out are operating under a false economy.  I've got a  buddy that won't get off $20 for a good tool deal - he's probably spent close to $300 on blades the last 4 years.  I haven't spent a dime other than some sharpening here and there.

JT