Maybe my last project. Another JERK builder stuck it to me.

[glass1]

Walnut built in. 10’7” wide 96” high. Built and installed in a completely finished house. There are 4 doors across the lower front not in the photo. I will post later.

 

[glass1]

Some shots of scribing the kick in. Builders just pass the buck why not just build it right ! Yep the old trion did a 10’ 7” scribe rip of 1” walnut. I have no idea why Festool did not just do a slight redesign of the trion to improve the sight line it’s only flaw but instead made the plasticky vibration underpowered price of crap the carvex. Jig saws need heft they vibrate by nature.

 

[Lincoln]

Really like the look of this, great work. Sorry to hear about your builder trouble.

 

[kevin clifford]

Nicely done! I often refer to this as "adjusting to field conditions".

 

[glass1]

Just to be clear I totally expect to scribe the base in. There where other circumstances that are better discussed over an aperitif.

 

[rvieceli]

Very nicely done.  [smile]

What's with all the holes in the base piece?

Ron

 

[glass1]

Holes ?  Maybe some beautiful character nots.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=4687]glass1[/member] no I mean in the shot where you are actually cutting the scribed piece with the jigsaw there appears to be a series of holes drilled in the edge of the walnut,

Ron

 

[glass1]

Well the kick went from 2  1/2” to 3 1/4 end to end.  So I ripped a piece to 3 1/2 to scribe. My bad as the floor bellied out. So I had to glue the ripping back on. So I used screws until the glue set. Just part of a days work. 

 

[ultane]

Great job!!!

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Lovely design, shame about the builder issues. To be honest a lot of our work is going around putting mistakes by other so called builders right.
Some of the things I see on a weekly basis are shocking, and strangely the client is often oblivious.

Just wondering, could the floor of not been levelled more from the start?

 

[Bob D.]

How old is the house?

 

[Dogberryjr]

That's a pile of walnut! Very handsome.

 

[morts10n]

I would never think of using a jigsaw to cut a scribe line from above. Especially that useless jigsaw. Cutting from below the piece works much better for eyeing the cut line. Even better is RAS 115.
Cheers!

 

[glass1]

I never saw anybody cut from below in real life. Only on the internet. Oh well I’ll just chalk it up to one of those things I never got a chance to try. I’ll take your word for it. I find some stick sand paper and block of wood to be good.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I would never think of using a jigsaw to cut a scribe line from above. Especially that useless jigsaw. Cutting from below the piece works much better for eyeing the cut line. Even better is RAS 115.
Cheers!

So, are you a P1 owner with a German technique when using a jig saw?

I’ve made many scribe cuts from above and below, with cordless Makita jig saws. A decent and correct blade is key.

 

[morts10n]

I've used about 5 different jigsaw over the years. My next one will be my last one...Mafell P1....currently using Trion. 30 years ago a countertop guy showed me the cut from below technique. (With glasses on),  one can put ones face 12 " from the action and see the line VERY well.  Also, I only use upstroke blades and chip out is nonexistent when cutting from below

 

[glass1]

Cool

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

If I want a really clean cut, with a nice edge, I cut from underneath. A lot of cuts don’t require this though, like cutting out a sink hole in a worktop, or scribed trims going to brickwork, that will be finished with a silicone seal etc.

My back doesn’t like under cuts  [blink]

 

[Michael Kellough]

If the workpiece is not too thick and the surface is not extremely delicate I use a downcut blade from the top.

If it’s a nice finished surface and more than 1/2” thick I cut from underneath with a regular but coarser blade. The coarser blade still leaves a fairly nice entrance edge (the finished side) but cuts faster so i I can get out of the awkward cutting position sooner.

Or, I use a regular blade (set to a bevel) a few mm beyond the mark then clean up to the line with the RAS.