Just use the MB 40 to plunge the lag screw 6”, after that remove the drill and drive it in the rest of the way. Once that lag screw has been driven 6” into wood, it’ll take an act of God or a locomotive to substantially change it’s direction.
Just use the MB 40 to plunge the lag screw 6”, after that remove the drill and drive it in the rest of the way. Once that lag screw has been driven 6” into wood, it’ll take an act of God or a locomotive to substantially change it’s direction.
I'm not sure that I am understanding you: If the lag screw is 12˝, then how do I have the clearance for the first 6˝ without building a special base to raise the drill stand. (I also have to drill a pilot hole a good 11.5˝. Now, I could drill the first 6˝ with a shorter bit and then drill the full length with a longer one, and then run the lag screw manually the first 6˝ before finishing with the MB 40, but I am hopeful for a more straightforward solution).
Once you have the pilot hole done, which is just a matter of using the MB 40 for its max depth and then continuing 'freehand' to the desired depth, the lag will follow the pilot hole. No need to use the MB 40 for that. (There is something called 'the path of least resistance' and that applies here).