McFeely's and Festool bits

[ctfeet]

I sent McFeely's a comment regarding Festool bits  and this is what I got back:

This is what I sent -

I recently purchased a Festool T15+3 drill / driver. It came with the Centrotec chuck which is a great idea. I'm looking for driver bits to fit this chuck and I've been on the "Festool Owners Group forums" and all the folks over there agree that there are no bits available other than those from Festool. As with most things Festool, their bits are somewhat expensive. Being a fan of McFeely's I figured I would check here and found nothing for the Centrotec chuck. Would it be at all possible to get your suppliers to make bits (square drive, torx, phillips, slotted, etc) in a Centrotec compatible form? I know that all the current Festool owners would LOVE you even more than they do now. You already have the best selection for screws and making bits in a Centrotec style would make your driver selection even better.

Thanks for your help
Stan

And this is their response -

Stan,

Thank you for your kind words regarding McFeely’s. While your idea has merit from a consumer standpoint, I don’t believe that it would be practical for McFeely’s to pursue this idea. First, I suspect that Festool has a patent on the shank design. Any “knock-off” would likely be required to pay a royalty to Festool absorbing any cost savings that might have been achieved. Secondly, I believe being the author of such competition might jeopardize the dealer relationship we enjoy with the Festool organization. Third, Festool is very protective of their quality reputation and use of other brand accessories may void your warranty on the drill which in the long run may be more expensive than buying the Centrotec Bits themselves.

We appreciate your comments.
Sincerely,

Peggy Thomas
Merchandising Manager
McFeely’s

So I guess that means McFeely's is out

 

[vkumar]

I can see the problem in making what Festool already sells.

But Festool does not sell square bit drivers, so that should be ok for McFeeleys to make them. Specially since they are the self proclaimed "Square Drive Experts"

Vijay

 

[EWTHeckman]

It sounds like it would be a good idea for someone from Festool to proactively contact McFeely's and alleviate their concerns.  [poke]

 

[Just_George]

So, are we to believe that using 3rd party bits in a Festool drill will void the warranty?  Gawd, what is the world coming to....  Nonetheless, I agree that it sure would be nice if somebody marketed a better selection of Centrotec bits.  I would have thought that McFeelys was perfect for this, but alas, they don't have the guts.

 

[Sparktrician]

Now, if those kind folks at Kreg would start making Torx pocket screws available in addition to the square drive screws, I wouldn't even need to consider square drive issues at all. 

[smile]

 

[Nick C]

This is why I sold my older Festool drill and switched to Bosch. At least the equal of the T 15 in functionality--at 1/4 the price--and it uses the standard hex shank drivers that we can get at Home Depot, McFeely's, etc. I read about folks grinding these off-the-shelf drivers so they would work in the Festool, but why?

 

[fdengel]

Centrotec is great, but it is hardly the only option available on Festool drills.

 

[honeydoman]

Yep we need square drive bits now to use in centrotec. I buy around 100-150 square drive tips a year due to me loosing them. Or whatever and always have 20 on hand different lengths and and stuck on different drills

So I think they would increase drill sales here in the USA.  If square drives were available after all this is square drive country not European type screws

Can the size that fits in centrotec be patented ?  Maybe but I dought. It as it is just a metric hole size. Now centrotec. Chucks can be patented I assume

But Festool will have to answer

We need to start a occupy Festool  till we have square drive !  Lol.    Just kidding.

But hey let's get the ball rolling 

 

[Jonhilgen]

I'm not sure what the fuss is about needing centrotec drivers...just put a 2" square drive bit it the centrotec holder air be done with it.  You can easily drive pocket screws with this setup, then switch to Philips
driver, or to a #1 square drive for trim screws without taking the driver out of the drill.  I do this daily installing cabinets and it saves me a ton of time.

My two cents.

Jon

 

[fdengel]

I'm not sure what the fuss is about needing centrotec drivers...just put a 2" square drive bit it the centrotec holder air be done with it.

Yep, that's basically what I do too.

 

[Vindingo]

McFeely's ball detent bits that are painted fit in the BHS 65 snugly and don't wobble as much as others.  They come in longer lengths, so it should solve your problem. 

I have also used the Kreg bit in a drill press method for "centrotecing" their long square drive. 

In order to make the process faster, I used my Dremel with a grinding stone at full blast to cut the concave section.  Twice as much spinning, half as long grinding.  It literally 2 minutes, and most of that was spent with the flat file rounding over the hex part and fitting it to the centrotec chuck.   

 

 

[Nick C]

It's possible to make the standard hex-shanks work with the Festool drill, but it limits the usefulness of the tool. Using one of the Festool bit holders is an obvious solution, but it adds length to the driver. The additional required clearance reduces the effectiveness of the right-angle chuck when working in tight quarters. And simply using using standard drivers without the Festool holder/adapter results in a wobbly, unsecure fit. You can get away with this when driving fasteners, but when drilling? Not a great idea, and a work-around I have difficulty accepting in a $500+ drill.

 

[fdengel]

Another option is to try the eccentric chuck, which takes 1/4" hex shank bits directly.

 

[denovich]

I centrotec'd some square drive bits using a file on a drill press and later using my metal lathe.  I was using Milwaukee's Shockwave bits... they are way hard.  Extremely difficult to machine even with carbide bits (note: I have a smallish lathe.) On the drill press I managed to do one before my round file was largely worn out.  The grinding route definitely looks like the way to go (if you have to.)

 

[Nick C]

Another option is to try the eccentric chuck, which takes 1/4" hex shank bits directly.

This does work. Sort of. It's a very loose fit. The bits wobble. Not a big problem for drivers, but it's a different story for drills. The Festool bit holder is better, assuming you have the clearance. I used that combination a lot for tight side-clearance applications. The right-angle chuck is more of a problem. The reason I need that type of chuck is a lack of front clearance, and the bit holder defeats the purpose.

 

[chiudesign]

McFeely's ball detent bits that are painted fit in the BHS 65 snugly and don't wobble as much as others.  They come in longer lengths, so it should solve your problem. 

I have also used the Kreg bit in a drill press method for "centrotecing" their long square drive. 

In order to make the process faster, I used my Dremel with a grinding stone at full blast to cut the concave section.  Twice as much spinning, half as long grinding.  It literally 2 minutes, and most of that was spent with the flat file rounding over the hex part and fitting it to the centrotec chuck.     

 

Are McFeely's bits that much better? I've just been using generic square bits attached to the BHS 65... Great idea on the grinder for longer bits, will give that a shot. I have all three of the latest Festool Lithium Ion drills but still find myself grabbing my tiny Litheon Bosch for the longer square bits...

 

[harry_]

I did the square drive bit that came with my Kreg pocket hole kit with my cordless drill & a piece of sand paper. I haven't used it in a while, but I recall it having worked ok in my centrotec chuck.

Are we just talking about rounding off the hex corners here, or something else entirely?

 

[Vindingo]

Are McFeely's bits that much better? I've just been using generic square bits attached to the BHS 65... Great idea on the grinder for longer bits, will give that a shot. I have all three of the latest Festool Lithium Ion drills but still find myself grabbing my tiny Litheon Bosch for the longer square bits...

eh... I compared it this morning to a generic square bit and its only minimally better as far as wobble goes but I feel that McFeely's bits fit their screws better than other square drive tips.  I wouldn't run out and buy them if you have bits already.

I did the square drive bit that came with my Kreg pocket hole kit with my cordless drill & a piece of sand paper. I haven't used it in a while, but I recall it having worked ok in my centrotec chuck.

Are we just talking about rounding off the hex corners here, or something else entirely?

 

Harry,  the grinder is used to cut the detent which is found on centrotec bits.  If you sand the edges, it will fit, but not not lock into place.  With the groove cut, the bit will lock into the centrotec chuck. 

 

[Kapitaldream]

I not really sure why anybody would use centrotec bits. I tried the drill bit that came with my drill and it did not last long and of course square drives don't really fit. I just pull off the chuck and the bit pops into the end of the shaft. If I need to predrill or countersink then that bit stays in the chuck and I can go back and forth between it and the square drive bit. Bits will also fit into the end of the angle drive too. The only issue that I have had with this method is breaking off the end of the bit where it narrows down, but just tap the broken part out and put the bit back in.

 

[fshanno]

I not really sure why anybody would use centrotec bits. I tried the drill bit that came with my drill and it did not last long and of course square drives don't really fit. I just pull off the chuck and the bit pops into the end of the shaft. If I need to predrill or countersink then that bit stays in the chuck and I can go back and forth between it and the square drive bit. Bits will also fit into the end of the angle drive too. The only issue that I have had with this method is breaking off the end of the bit where it narrows down, but just tap the broken part out and put the bit back in.

I tried a 6" square drive it at my dealer and it wobbled like crazy.  Was I dreaming?