MDF Countertops?

[rmwarren]

I am considering using MDF to make a couple counter tops for my office/workroom. I want something that is cheap and plain, day-to-day uses includes office work, electronics, fly-tying, misc. hobby activities, etc. No drilling or sawing, I want the keep the top in good shape without gouges, holes, etc.

My plan is to use 3/4 material and double up the edges, round over top/bottom edge about 1/4", sand well and seal with oil then coat with water-based poly. Concerns are:

• Will the routed/sanded edge appearance be really different from the top, which I do plan on sanding also to remove the hard sheen?
• Using the oil/poly will this give me enough protection to avoid swelling, i.e. from a water glass ring or small spill?
• What type of oil to use, or should I use something else? I tested teak oil on a small piece and it is okay, a little lighter than I would prefer. I want to darken the MDF to a medium-dark brown.

Appreciate feedback from anyone who has attempted this.

Thanks!

RMW

 

[mouppe]

I'm not helping you very much with this response- sorry!- but I think however nicely you make it, I think it will still be mutton dressed up as lamb.

You could just buy a countertop like this and save yourself the trouble of making something. Solid beech and 1 1/2" thick.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20057854/#/20057854

 

[jmbfestool]

If you remove the top layer "sheen" then it should look identical to the edge I can't see why it wouldn't.

I have never done what your doing. When I use MDF its ALWAYS painted.

So I can't help you with the rest.

I my self would rather use birch plywood sanded and sealed it can look nice and its very hard wearing.

Jmb

 

[sgryd]

Hi.
Have you considered Valchromat? I'm not sure if where it's available though. Valchromat is MDF but the fibers are colored. No matter how you cut or route the board it remains the same color. It's takes oil very well and it's quite polishable if you want a shine. I've seen it in matte finish as well and it looks really nice. It's quite a bit harder that ordinary MDF.

Link: http://www.valchromatsa.com/

Here are some quite bad images, but you might see how it looks like. I used red for a top for the kids IKEA bookcases. It's nice to be able to round of corners or cut in funny shapes and still have the same color.
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//Michael

 

[Sparktrician]

MDF is a moisture sink.  I've tried a few finishes and they all eventually fail, leaving one exposed to moisture damage from wet glasses, spills, etc.  If you're intent on using MDF, use it as a core material and cover it with Formica or Wilsonart laminates.  Alternatively, Richard's suggestion regarding the Ikea material has merit. 

 

[rmwarren]

Thanks for the input guys, I totally forgot about the Ikea tops. Last time I was there I looked closely and liked them, filed it away in my leaky brain "for future use" and promptly forgot. Problem solved.

Now, does anyone know where my reading glasses are...?  [scratch chin]

RMW

 

[Tinker]

I treat my MFT tops with a couple of coats of wipe-on poly and then a couple coats of wax buffed w/RO 150.
It comes to a shine and very slight darkening.  I'm sure not as dark as you might want.  I do, periodically buff in another coat of wax when it looses sheen.   

I don't really know what reaction water might cause. I am inclined to agree with others about MDF being a water sponge.  I have glued MDF end grain to rabbets and dados and that stuff really gobbles up glue. I coat the MFT tops because I am interested in shedding of glue drops and squeeze out when i am assembling.  Even with the protection described, i still put down wax paper under any joints in the assembly.

Tinker

 

[Wooden Lungs]

I too would use a hardwood or softwood option instead of MDF or MRMDF. I have seen it sanded and varnished before and it did'nt impress me. Ok for garage shelving etc but ugly.

You could get some softwood flooring boards from a timber yard cheap and just glue them up and use for the top. Or salvage some real wood from somewhere! Much better wearing and more aesthetic.

Valchromat is fun to use but the colours aside from black are a bit odd! The dust seems worse too  as it shows up more than plain mdf....

(I am aware black is not even a colour  [wink])

 

[panelchat]

There's a top in my kitchen like you describe and the roundover and edge looks fine, consistent.

I would encourage a thick oil based finish, preferably sprayed. This will keep water out and help impacts glance off the surface.

Water borne finish may have compatibility issues with an oiled surface so I would watch out there if you do decide to go that way, maybe do tests.

The MDF is a sponge, so it drinks up huge amounts of thinner and oil from a "danish oil" or similar very thin sealer type liquid. Then it takes forever to dry- in my tests a week later it still felt sorta wet or uncured...

OTOH, a thick oil, like Surfix or especially Osmo Poly X, might be worth trying. Osmo has color options and dries much faster, a huge benefit given the sponge effect of MDF taking in lots of liquid that then has a hard time drying.

The smooth factory surface on MDF is a great bit of engineering and is one of its very strong benefits as a panel product- I suggest keeping it as smooth as you can. Smoothness adds to durability too.

You might consider melamine- ugly but cheap, extremely durable and quite inert chemically. My old melamine outfeed table cleaned up to new easily, after a few years of poly glue, titebond glue, dye, stain, abrasion, getting smashed with hammers, etc.

You might also look at Richlite, a paper based panel product bound with phenolic resin. A bit expensive but the brown color looks like a dark MDF, it requires little/no finishing, machines with wood tools, and you can drive a car over it without really hurting it. Thin and thick sheets available. Use .25" on top of a substrate, or use solid 3/4".

 

[Stone Message]

I would avoid using MDF oiled or waxed. As JMB says, painting works well and I have made loads of raised panel doors entirely of normal MDF then painted and they look great. For a desk top you need some tough paint preceded by good sealers and prep work. Why not spend a few extra Dollars/Pounds/Euros and go for veneered MDF - it is stable, can be oiled properly and will withstand some abuse - oh, and it looks great too. Edge it with solid wood - I must have done a video about that - Table Project I think.

Peter

 

[mastercabman]

you could use a 2 parts epoxy.

 

[rmwarren]

Thanks for the additional input. One issue I deal with at the Jersey shore is a near total lack of easily accessible material suppliers, anything other than the big-box stores is typically an hour drive. This is coupled with transporting in a SUV, 4 by 8 sheet goods end up on the roof rack. Overall just a PITA. It tends to make me reach too far to adapt available materials to the use, rather than getting the right material.

That said, I did like the IKEA tops Richard mentioned, the beech in particular, I had just forgotten about them. Nearest Ikea is still over an hour away in Philly but they are easier to transport and will save fabrication time. I am leaning toward that option and scuttling the MDF idea.

I appreciate the ideas.

RMW  

 

[Sparktrician]

Why not spend a few extra Dollars/Pounds/Euros and go for veneered MDF - it is stable, can be oiled properly and will withstand some abuse - oh, and it looks great too. Edge it with solid wood - I must have done a video about that - Table Project I think.

Peter

Admittedly veneered MDF does look good and is dimensionally stable, but it is NOT impervious to water damage.  My dining room table has a couple of swollen places under the veneer where a former beloved spouse failed to heed the gentle guidance so lovingly imparted regarding not watering plants on said table.  There's no way of getting the bubbles to go back down due to the way MDF swells.  They will be there until I choose to get rid of that table, dernit!!!  [mad]

 

[Alan m]

Why not spend a few extra Dollars/Pounds/Euros and go for veneered MDF - it is stable, can be oiled properly and will withstand some abuse - oh, and it looks great too. Edge it with solid wood - I must have done a video about that - Table Project I think.

Peter

if you routed a hole into the underside of the area with the bulge. then clamp something solid ont ehtop side. then fill with body filler.

Admittedly veneered MDF does look good and is dimensionally stable, but it is NOT impervious to water damage.  My dining room table has a couple of swollen places under the veneer where a former beloved spouse failed to heed the gentle guidance so lovingly imparted regarding not watering plants on said table.  There's no way of getting the bubbles to go back down due to the way MDF swells.  They will be there until I choose to get rid of that table, dernit!!!  [mad]

 

[bruegf]

I have a workbench top that's 1.25" mdf and I glued a 1/4" masonite sheet on top of it and then coated with epoxy.  I did this about 30 years ago for a garage workbench and its still in great condition.  No problems with the broad range of temperature and humidty, plus the masonite is much more resistant to chips and dings.

Fred

 

[flair woodworks]

Exterior-grade MDF can be bought.  It might be a special order for the lumberyards in your area.  I've never worked with it or seen it in person, but it's an oddity that's out there.

 

[jmbfestool]

Exterior-grade MDF can be bought.  It might be a special order for the lumberyards in your area.  I've never worked with it or seen it in person, but it's an oddity that's out there.

Also very  expensive!! 

 

[flair woodworks]

Exterior-grade MDF can be bought.  It might be a special order for the lumberyards in your area.  I've never worked with it or seen it in person, but it's an oddity that's out there.

Also very  expensive!! 

Why am I not surprised?  Is it three times as much as regular MDF?

 

[bholmsten]

Another option for maple tops is Lumber Liquidator they sell buther block I made a work bench with 2 layers of MDF (1-1/2" thick) and then 1-1/2 " thick butcher  block for 3 inch 3 work surface. I want to say it was about $200 for 8 feet.

 

[BUTTER]

Extira (waterproof mdf) is around double typical mdf prices around here, which makes it a little more expensive than shop ply, and less than marine ply.  We use it as a core for outdoor kitchens. 
Due to an unfortunate callback recently, I am also going to start using it for dishwasher panels and surrounding areas.

As Ikea goes, they will often deliver from the store for $50