mechanical pencils

[rst]

I've been using the Pentel Graph Gear 1000 which I purchased on Amazon.  I carry one in my side pocket along with a pen and a Milwaukee fine line marker.  The pencils are metal and the whole tip retracts (not just the lead) when the top of the clip is depressed.  Liked the first one so much that I purchased three more to leave at my shop work stations.

 

[Maximus]

On a more economical level I gave up wooden carpenters pencils some time ago and now swear by a chunky brass barreled clutch pencil made by Koh-I-Noor.  It's stubby so fits well in my pocket, the 5.6mm lead is great for general marking and it even has a built in lead point sharpener.  For the price it's amazing value - under ten quid!!  Built like a tank, as the review says.  I peeled off the black cover on mine because I like the brass underneath.

>>>https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ARZEJ7S/  [thumbs up]

 

[Cheese]

Here's an update to this thread.

I wanted to purchase a few additional Alvin Draft/Matic mechanical pencils. When I went to the local art supply store, they informed me that Alvin, after being family owned for 70 years, had sold out to a "management" firm in 2020 located in Utah. [sad]  Worse yet, they've had Alvin pencils on back order since that time and have yet to receive any.  [eek]
They suggested I look at the Koh-I-Noor offering. The Alvin Draft/Matics were made in Germany while the Rapidomatics are made in Japan. Here's a comparison, tough to tell the difference.

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I also picked up a Rotring 2 mm lead holder that I use for making very precise lines. Here's a comparison of a Rotring .5 mm pencil and the Rotring 2 mm pencil. The new Rotring 2 mm pencil is also made in Japan as opposed to Germany.

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Here's a comparison of lead point sizes after the 2 mm pencil has been sharpened. That 2 mm point is down to .15 mm compared to the .5 mm lead.

[attachimg=3]

Another nice touch is that in an emergency, the end cap of the Rotring comes off and it contains an internal lead pointer. It's emergency only because it is messy. For normal 2 mm lead sharpening, I prefer this Faber Castell sharpener for its enclosed lead containment. It sharpens both 2 mm & 3 mm leads.

[attachimg=4]

[attachimg=5]

 

[Mini Me]

I have had a Pica for some years and sometimes I am tempted to throw it in the bin. The lead is so soft it needs continual sharpening and for some time it would not advance the lead though that problem seems to have gone away. The only thing that saves it from the bin is the long nose for deep hole marking.

 

[hdv]

I have a set of Pentel GraphGear 1000 pencils I really love. Highly recommended.

The ones I use most are the 0.5 mm and the 0.9 mm. Of both I have one with a hard lead and one with a softer lead in them.

I do have one with a 0.3 mm lead, but only use that when I need a very sharp line on surfaces where a marking knife isn't appropriate.

The Pica comes out only for rough marking.

 

[MAK]

I have had a Pica for some years and sometimes I am tempted to throw it in the bin. The lead is so soft it needs continual sharpening and for some time it would not advance the lead though that problem seems to have gone away. The only thing that saves it from the bin is the long nose for deep hole marking.

Get the pica 0.9mm lead one, much better .

 

[SilviaS7]

I am a mechanical pencil snob, and have a ton of different options.  One I really like to use with my Woodpeckers t-square (since it has the little holes you can run the pencil in and slide the square down your board), is the Pentel Orenz Nero 0.5mm.  It's expensive and has a lot going on, you also have to learn how to use it without the lead coming out of the end, but it just pleases me so much to use.  I also have several 2mm lead holders, Caran d'Ache Fixpencil are my favorite (basically a lead holder version of the 849 ballpoint pen).  Last, my favoritest favorite, is a solid brass lead holder from Ystudio.  It's heavy and just makes me ridiculously happy to use in woodworking or just drawing with it.  But that's a $100 mechanical pencil so not for everyone, of course.

 

[Mini Me]

I have had a Pica for some years and sometimes I am tempted to throw it in the bin. The lead is so soft it needs continual sharpening and for some time it would not advance the lead though that problem seems to have gone away. The only thing that saves it from the bin is the long nose for deep hole marking.

Get the pica 0.9mm lead one, much better .

I was not aware of the .09 Pica but I only use my Pica occasionally. Except for a .05 mechanical pencil I use for my Incra rules I now use conventional pencils and a good rotary sharpener. An advantage of the conventional pencil is that the lead can be sharpened with a chisel point to give a line equivalent to a marking knife. 

 

[semenza]

I am a mechanical pencil snob, and have a ton of different options.  One I really like to use with my Woodpeckers t-square (since it has the little holes you can run the pencil in and slide the square down your board), is the Pentel Orenz Nero 0.5mm.  It's expensive and has a lot going on, you also have to learn how to use it without the lead coming out of the end, but it just pleases me so much to use.  I also have several 2mm lead holders, Caran d'Ache Fixpencil are my favorite (basically a lead holder version of the 849 ballpoint pen).  Last, my favoritest favorite, is a solid brass lead holder from Ystudio.  It's heavy and just makes me ridiculously happy to use in woodworking or just drawing with it.  But that's a $100 mechanical pencil so not for everyone, of course.

I find that .9mm is perfect for WP T-Squares. The holes are drilled at 1mm. So the .9mm fills the holes as completely as possible. Yes, the line is a bit thicker than a .5mm but the .9mm eliminates any side to side play. Ends up being more consistent and accurate. The lead is stronger too.

Seth

 

[Sparktrician]

I rather like the Pentel 0.9 mm pencils like the GraphGear 500 and the P209 for woodworking.

 

[rst]

I've been using the Pental Graghgear 1000s for some years now in the 5,7 and 9 versions.  I recently started using the Pica 9mm and marker as staples in the side pocket of my carpenter pants.  I particularly like the 1000s as the entire lead end would disappear and avoid breaking when in my pockets.

 

[SilviaS7]

I find that .9mm is perfect for WP T-Squares. The holes are drilled at 1mm. So the .9mm fills the holes as completely as possible. Yes, the line is a bit thicker than a .5mm but the .9mm eliminates any side to side play. Ends up being more consistent and accurate. The lead is stronger too.

Seth

It's not so much the line that makes the difference for me, I just find on a normal 0.9mm I need to stick the lead far out and it breaks off easy.  The Orenz Nero allows the lead to stay inside the metal tube as you write, so the lead isn't really exposed at all (sounds counter-intuitive, I know) so I break less lead when using it.

 

[Alanbach]

Not a mechanical pencil but a woodworking buddy just suggested a new pencil and sharpener to me and they just arrived. It’s called a Blackwing Natural. Apparently they have been around since the thirties used by artists and writers and are known to be great marking pencils. They are precision made so the lead is perfectly centered in the wood so that the lead is fully exposed when sharpened. Per my friends recommendation I also purchased their two step sharpener which is quite cool. First hole is strictly for sharpening the wood and the second hole then creates a very precise long point on the lead. I just received them today so I have not used them on a project yet but a side by side comparison line on paper compared to a freshly sharpened regular pencil was really impressive for how thin the line was while still being quite visible. Initially I’m impressed!

 

[Chainring]

It's not so much the line that makes the difference for me, I just find on a normal 0.9mm I need to stick the lead far out and it breaks off easy.  The Orenz Nero allows the lead to stay inside the metal tube as you write, so the lead isn't really exposed at all (sounds counter-intuitive, I know) so I break less lead when using it.

That Pentel Orenz line of pencils seems like the ticket for easily broken lead. I watched a couple of reviews and read some as well. It seems people really like it and outside of personal preference for shape, texture, colors, etc...the main gripe is it can feel kinda gritty because the metal sleeve can drag on paper. I figure, as long as the pencil is used mostly upright, it should be good to go.

 

[mino]

...
They suggested I look at the Koh-I-Noor offering. The Alvin Draft/Matics were made in Germany while the Rapidomatics are made in Japan. Here's a comparison, tough to tell the difference.
...

Koh-I-Noor Hardtmuth is a traditional Czech pencil company. They named it after the famous diamond back in the time.

I cannot vouch for the practicality of these specific pencils, but saying the folks know how to make stuff is an understatement.

From a US perspective, I think the main plus is being an actual manufacturer which enables long term product stability. A "5639" model will be the same "5639" 20 yrs down the line. At most with a different paint job.

Theirs is not a high tech field, so models being 50+ years on the market are not an exception.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koh-i-Noor_Hardtmuth

 

[Cheese]

Koh-I-Noor Hardtmuth is a traditional Czech pencil company. They named it after the famous diamond back in the time.

I cannot vouch for the practicality of these specific pencils, but saying the folks know how to make stuff is an understatement.

From a US perspective, I think the main plus is being an actual manufacturer which enables long term product stability. A "5639" model will be the same "5639" 20 yrs down the line. At most with a different paint job.

Theirs is not a high tech field, so models being 50+ years on the market are not an exception.

Ya, when the salesperson suggested I look at Koh-I-Noor as an alternative I didn't hesitate. My experience with these chalk holders has been terrific. They not only work extremely well but they're bomb-proof and made of heavy duty steel. Even though they've taken the 5' drop to the floor dozens of times, they still function as new.  [smile]

[attachimg=1]

 

[SilviaS7]

It's not so much the line that makes the difference for me, I just find on a normal 0.9mm I need to stick the lead far out and it breaks off easy.  The Orenz Nero allows the lead to stay inside the metal tube as you write, so the lead isn't really exposed at all (sounds counter-intuitive, I know) so I break less lead when using it.

That Pentel Orenz line of pencils seems like the ticket for easily broken lead. I watched a couple of reviews and read some as well. It seems people really like it and outside of personal preference for shape, texture, colors, etc...the main gripe is it can feel kinda gritty because the metal sleeve can drag on paper. I figure, as long as the pencil is used mostly upright, it should be good to go.

Personally I don't notice any drag on the paper, and I press down hard when I write.  I make an effort not to press down so hard when using the Orenz Nero so maybe that's the difference?  I also have the 0.2mm and 0.3mm and I draw with all three of them, they're fantastic.

As for Koh-I-Noor, I just wanted to add that I'm an artist and I use Koh-I-Noor products and they are wonderful.  I think the lower price point makes folks think they are a "cheap" brand, but their artist grade materials are on par with the other major manufacturers in the sector.  I have not used the Rapidograph, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's just as nice as any other mechanical pencil or lead holder on the market.

 

[Chainring]

[member=67095]SilviaS7[/member]

Good to know you're not experiencing any drag; that could have just been the one video review I watched. I have the .2 and .3 on order and I'm really looking forward to giving them a try.

Thanks for mentioning them.